($51): Caiarossa, a relatively new entry into the Super Tuscan world (2004 was their first vintage), is headed towards the top of that illustrious group. In addition to four of the traditional Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot), they planted and use in this, their flagship wine, Syrah, Sangiovese, and Alicante. Although it’s a concentrated wine with great depth and an exciting edginess, it displays finesse and sophistication. Nothing is overdone, nor out of place. Owned by the same family who owns Château Giscours and Château du Tertre in Margaux and with the same general manager, Alexander Van Beek, it is not surprising that Caiarossa has a velvety Margaux-like texture. Indeed, it’s the cashmere-like texture of the wine as much as its layers of flavor that captures your attention. This wine has more youthful, but still silky, tannins compared to Aria di Caiarossa and Pergolaia and is best left in the cellar for several years, while you drink their other ones. But put some in your cellar — it’s a legend in the making and an extraordinary value.
96 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2017