($70):  Brancaia has fashioned a “bigger” more modern style of Super Tuscan by blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.  Although these are grapes known as Bordeaux varieties, Brancaia’s Ilatraia has clear roots in Tuscany as manifested by its terrific enlivening and refreshing acidity.  In contrast to its TRE, Ilatraia conveys riper, more black fruit flavors seasoned with the luxuriousness of oak.  Remarkably approachable now, it’s not a sipping wine, rather one that would be at home at a Florentine steak house.  Its 14.5% stated alcohol is noticeable as a slightly hot finish, but is hardly an impediment if a rare strip steak is on your plate.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2017