($20, Artisanal Cellars):  Despite being Italy’s first DOC, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (yes, you read that correctly) rarely receives the accolades it deserves, which is a boon for consumers because its low visibility keeps the prices down.  Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara is one of the region’s top producers, so their wines are a good place to start for consumers who want to know what Vernaccia di San Gimignano should taste like.  Their Selvabianca, a selection of their best wine, delivers an ever so slightly creaminess buttressed by vibrant acidity.  It has good depth, with an attractive hint of bitter nuttiness in the finish.  It’s concentrated and zesty enough to stand up to hearty seafood-based pasta or grilled swordfish. It delivers far more than the price suggests. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2017