($60, Kobrand): Tenute Silvio Nardi produces classically framed Brunello that reveal their substantial charms slowly.  They have vineyards both in the northwest and southeast section of the DOCG zone, which allows them to capture the virtues of each of those zones by using grapes from both of them for this wine.  (They also make sensational single-vineyard bottlings from those vineyards, labeled Vigneto Manachiara and Poggio Doria.)  Their 2012 Brunello, from an excellent vintage, shows a classically framed structure surrounding a core of dark, mineral-like fruitiness.  Tightly wound at this stage and beautifully balanced, give it at least 5 years in the cellar for it to blossom.  If you can’t wait, open and decant it a few hours before serving.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 29, 2017