($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): Chianti Rùfina, the smallest of the eight subzones of Chianti, a vast area in the middle of Tuscany, accounts for only about three percent of the region’s production.  By comparison, Chianti Classico, the best known of the subzones and the area located in the hills between Florence and Siena, produces ten times the amount of wine.  Chianti Rùfina’s cooler climate — it is further north and east compared to Chianti Classico — explains, in part, why its wines are less ripe and more savory compared to those from its more famous neighbor. This one from Grignano is a perfect example, conveying herbal earthy notes that complement its juicy and succulent black cherry fruitiness.  Bright acidity and a delightful hint of bitterness in the finish keep you coming back. Its charming rusticity makes it a good choice for penne arrabiata or flavorful pasta dishes. Don’t be put off by the press that damns the 2014 vintage in Tuscany.  Wines like this one show the limitations of vintage charts.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 15, 2017