($30): Santa Maria Valley, though located in Southern California, actually has some very cool areas because the valley runs East-West instead of the more usual North-South orientation. As such, it draws cool air from the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, growers determine what to plant where by assessing how much heat is needed to ripen a particular variety — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir favor western sites while Cabernet Sauvignon needs the heat of more inland — eastern — plots. Cambria’s Clone 4 Chardonnay shows the restraint and vibrancy of grapes grown in cooler climes. A touch of creaminess, without a trace of weight, adds to its allure.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 1, 2017