($30): It’s worth keeping your eyes out for wines from this new small producer in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County. Sweetzer, like many producers in the Sta. Rita Hills, buys grapes from growers as opposed to owning their own vineyards — a set-up that is similar to a small Burgundy négociant. For this bottling, the grapes came from both the Santa Maria Valley and the Sta. Rita Hills. This Pinot Noir, a blend of wines that failed to make the cut for Sweetzer’s single vineyard bottlings, is paradoxically delightfully delicate yet packed with flavor. It’s a lovely contrast to the all-too-common over ripe, powerful style of Pinot Noir coming out of California. Try it with grilled salmon.
91 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2017