($42): Norm Yost, owner of Flying Goat Cellars, was either crazy or a visionary when he was the first to make a sparkling wine in Sta. Rita Hills in 2005.  Now there are more than 30 producers who have followed him, so you can draw your own conclusions.  He uses the traditional Champagne method — secondary fermentation in the bottle, hand riddling and disgorging — and the proscribed grapes, Pinot Noir (85%) and Chardonnay, the former coming from the Rio Vista Vineyard in Sta. Maria and the latter from a vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley.  The wine sings — white peaches, creaminess and the barest hint of tannins (from the Pinot Noir) with the perfect vibrant acidity and not a trace of harshness.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2017