($30, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre owns a piece of the Mont de Milieu vineyard, which may explain why it is always one of their top wines.  Mont de Milieu (literally, the mountain in the middle), located on the right bank of Serein River near the strip of Grand Cru vineyards, takes its name from its location in the middle, separating the dukedoms of Burgundy and Champagne of the past.  Vigorous and stony, the 2014 Mont de Milieu, is sleek and long.  It should be in everyone’s cellar.  It will take on additional complexity with a few years of bottle age.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2017