($46): Though the current drumbeat in California is for restrained Chardonnay, it was Stony Hill, decades ago, in the 1950s, that basically invented the drum. They’ve always made restrained, yet flavorful, cutting Chardonnays, the kind you savor. The 2011, not their recent release, but still available at the retail level, shows how beautifully their wines develop. Paradoxically restrained and explosive, it shows it screams, “This is great.”
95 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2016