($60): One of the joys of tasting Cabernet Sauvignon from J. Lohr is that they show the diversity of California terroir. Tasted side-by-side, this one from a single vineyard in St. Helena in Napa Valley and their “Hilltop” Cabernet Sauvignon ($35, 89 points) from their vineyards in Paso Robles make a fascinating comparison. Made by the same winemaking team from a similar, though not identical, blend of grapes they show that site matters because where the grapes were grown is the major difference between them. The Carol’s Vineyard bottling from St. Helena conveys the power and elegance you’d expect from Napa Valley Cabernet. It’s a lush combination of tarry nuances, black fruit flavors all enrobed by suave unobtrusive tannins. In contrast, the Hilltop is fruitier with more herbal than tarry nuances. Less fine tannins translate into a wine with less elegance. Still, at the price, it’s easy to recommend with robust fare. Is this a consistent difference between Napa and Paso Robles? I can’t wait to continue the comparison.
93 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2016