($23, Banfi Vintners): Fontana Candida’s Luna Mater will transform your image of Frascati, typically a light refreshing, but otherwise undistinguished, white wine.  Well, Luna Mater is certainly distinguished.  It’s not just more concentrated than the usual Frascati — though it is.  What is astounding is its character: complex, deep and long, words not usually associated with Frascati.  Its seductive creamy texture, the slightly bitter almond note in the finish, and racy acidity adds to its allure.  It has enough stuffing and verve to pair with full-flavored seafood dishes or veal scaloppine.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2016