($25, Montcalm Wine Imports): Readers know I’m not swept away by the tsunami of enthusiasm for rosé, often recommending chilling a light red instead. Well, this rosé makes me reassess my opinion of the category. Made entirely from Vermentino Nero, an autochthonous grape from Liguria, it has layers of flavor that impart character. Fruity and fresh, it has amazing substance and length for a rosé. Of course, it would be a good choice for the usual summer salads. But it has enough energy and oomph to hold up nicely to a tomato-based seafood preparation. This rosé is just more evidence that Lunae Bosoni is a superb producer.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2016