($225, Folio Fine Wines): Ornellaia is truly an iconic Super Tuscan that shows that Bordeaux does not have a monopoly on making great wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The 2013 growing season in Bolgheri was cooler than usual, producing less opulent, but to my mind no less enjoyable, wines. There’s a higher proportion of Merlot in the blend of the 2013, which adds to its appeal. Indeed, the 2013 Ornellaia stands out for its elegance and complexity rather than sheer power. It unfolds in the glass, revealing a plethora of savory, mineral-y flavors with each sip. This is a wine to savor because it speaks to you without shouting at you. Not surprisingly, it has the hallmark suave texture of all of the wines made by Alex Heinz, their winemaker. Drink it now and savor its charms or cellar it for a decade to enjoy even more savory elements.
93 Michael Apstein May 24, 2016