($75, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Domaine Vaudon is the name Drouhin uses for their Chablis. They want to emphasize, justifiably, that they own substantial vineyards there because of the foresight of the patriarch, Robert Drouhin, who purchased vineyards there almost 50 year ago. Indeed, Drouhin, though based in the Côte d’Or with the other major Burgundy négociants, is one of the best producers in Chablis. The two top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis are Les Clos and Vaudésir. Drouhin’s 2014 from Vaudésir is stunning, delivering a spectacular combination of ripeness and flinty minerality. Long and vibrant, the flavors continue to echo long after you swallow it. My experience with their Vaudésir — indeed all Drouhin’s Chablis — is that they develop even more complexity with bottle age. This one certainly will, if you can keep your corkscrew away from it. Though $75 is not cheap, it’s a steal for a Grand Cru of this quality.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2016