($100): Hanzell, one of the pioneers in California with Pinot Noir, sometimes gets lost among the hoopla of the bolder wines made from that grape. Hanzell’s Pinot Noir is a study in how a delicate wine can convey extraordinary excitement. Savory elements are a wonderful counterpoint to the elegant fruitiness and by contrast, actually accentuate it. It unfolds as it sits in the glass. This is a wine to savor and marvel as its flavors are revealed over dinner. You’ll be seduced by it with simply grilled salmon. 95 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2016