($38): I highly recommend the second wines of the top estates in Bordeaux, especially as the prices of the grand vins make them unattainable for most of us. Vivens from Château Durfort-Vivens is an especially attractive one. Château Durfort-Vivens, classified as a 2nd growth in the Médoc classification of 1855, is regaining its former stature under the guidance of Gonzague Lurton, part of the family whose name implies excellence in Bordeaux. The 2009 Vivens delivers the ripeness of that vintage without being overdone or flamboyant. Enrobed in the plush tannins that are the signature of Margaux, it is “forward” and easy to enjoy now, yet has adequate structure so it doesn’t come across as a “fruit bomb.” It finishes with a hint of earthiness that adds complexity.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016