($134, T. Edward Wines): Wines from Cannubi, one of the very best vineyards in the Barolo zone, are capable of an amazing combination of grace and power. While some growers may attempt to capitalize on the name Cannubi to sell their wines, others aim to express the grandeur the vineyard has to offer. Giacomo Borgogno is one of those growers. While the 2010 vintage in Barolo has, justifiably, received much praise, consumers should not overlook previous vintages, such as the 2008. Giacomo Borgogno’s 2008 Cannubi is just marvelous. The epitome of Barolo, it seamlessly combines a tar-like power with incredible grace. For all its intensity, it’s really its elegance, especially in the finish, that is captivating. Still an infant of a wine, it has years to go before reaching a plateau. The problem will be resisting the temptation to open a bottle this winter. For those of you for whom the finance gods have been generous in 2015, this wine should be in your cellar.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2016