($150): Dominus Estate has become a California icon in barely over 3 decades since Christian Moueix purchased the famed Napanook Vineyard in 1982.  The first vintage, 1983, was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot.  Over the decades the Bordeaux focus has been constant while the blend has shifted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon supplemented with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.  The 2011, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (86%), Petit Verdot (9%) and Cabernet Franc, is a brilliant wine, with minerality and herbal nuances more than fruitiness.  For all its intensity, it’s its elegance that marks its stature.  Not overdone, the velvety tannins caress the palate while still providing structure.  A touch of bitterness in the finish reinforces the grandeur of this wine.  In my experience, Dominus develops even more complexity with a decade of bottle age, so I suggest cellaring the 2011.  But, if you can’t resist, open it a few hours in advance, decant it, and serve it with a simple rack of lamb.
96 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2015