($42): Gigondas, another one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village, is capable of producing powerful, yet stylish wines. This is one them. Using the usual blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault, the team at Saint Cosme have fashioned a delightfully unusual combination of black fruit flavors, mineral-like nuances and herbal notes, all of which are wrapped in suave tannins. Though not appropriate as a stand-alone glass before dinner, its balance and suaveness makes it surprisingly enjoyable — for a young beefy wine — for a hearty dinner tonight.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 10, 2015