($11, Monsieur Touton Selections): Côtes du Rhône, a vast appellation in the southern Rhone Valley, produces both well priced satisfying red wines and mediocre ones. This one, in the former category, shows why the appellation remains so popular. A “bistro wine” at its best, it’s refreshing, fruity and slightly spicy, but not heavy. The tannins are so minimal you can chill it without bringing out astringency, yet they add just the right amount of structure. (Remember it for next summer when you’re grilling burgers.) For now, it’s a tremendous value that will be perfect this winter with a pizza or a coq au vin.
87 Michael Apstein Oct 27, 2015