($20, Pieropan Wines USA): Sadly, Soave has been one of the most abused names in wine, with many examples in the past — and still some today — that are dilute and without character.  What makes it a real shame is how good and exciting authentic Soave, such as this one, can be.  So how to find the real thing?  Start with wines from the Soave Classico zone, with its prized hillside exposure, which, even with a new classification, remains the best sub-region, according to most growers.  Then find a topnotch producer, such as Pieropan, who also makes single vineyard bottlings — La Rocca and Calvarino — that are extraordinary and develop beautifully with a decade of bottle age.  Pieropan’s “basic” Soave Classico is a great introduction — and a bargain to boot — to this much-maligned region.  It delivers a great punch, with a clean and fresh edginess and a subtle bitter almond finish.  Of course, it’s a good match for grilled fish, but its character and verve also makes it a perfect choice for pasta in a light tomato sauce.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2015