($92): Miljenko “Mike” Grgich put California wines firmly on the world’s wine map in 1976 when a Chardonnay he made when he was Chateau Montelena’s winemaker beat out a bevy of white Burgundies for first place at a comparative tasting in Paris.  Though he has ceded winemaking responsibilities to his nephew Ivo Jeramaz, Grgich Hills Estate still produces Chardonnays — and other wines — that amaze.  This one, named after that famous Paris tasting, is the winery’s best Chardonnay, delivering pure California ripeness and richness — even a touch of butterscotch — offset by energizing acidity. An exceptional citrus-infused finish reinforces its stature as a great wine.  Filled with flavor, yet not heavy, it’s a marvelous balancing act.  Though immediately captivating, it expands in the glass, so give it time.  This is a wine to drink, not just taste because it’s even more extraordinary an hour after you pour it.
96 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2015