($53): I am an enthusiastic fan of Jordan’s Cabernets because the team there has, thankfully, resisted the California trend toward super ripe, super rich, bombastic wines.   Although much has changed at Jordan since their founding — the grapes no longer come solely from their vineyards — they continue to focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay and continue to produce harmonious wines.  This 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon has plenty of plum-like fruit, but it also has finesse, grace and a modest 13.8% stated alcohol.  It doesn’t assault your palate or shout, “look at me!”  It’s a wine to drink and marvel at how it changes over the course of the meal, delivering more enjoyment with each sip.  It’s easy to enjoy now, but Jordan’s Cabernet Sauvignon develops enormous complexity with a decade or two of bottle age — another sign of a great wine — so there’s no rush.  And given the prices of California’s cult Cabernets, it’s a bargain for what it delivers.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2015