($160): Poggio di Sotto, one of the region’s traditional producers, made one of the top wines of the vintage in 2010.  Though not a powerhouse, there’s plenty going on in Poggio di Sotto’s 2010 Brunello.  The first whiff tells you it’s something special.  And then, like a ballerina, the flavors dance over the palate.  The pure and fine tannins are apparent, though paradoxically, not noticeable. In an odd way, it reminds me of great red Burgundy in that it has flavor without weight.  The problem is its scarcity — only 12 thousand bottles produced.  It’s worth the search.
96 Michael Apstein Apr 14, 2015