($107, Kobrand): The 45-acre Cannubi vineyard, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed, is divided among 22 producers, according to Alberto Chiarlo.  With 3 acres, Chiarlo is the second largest owner, but they still produce only 6,000 bottles annually.  Chiarlo explains that Barolo’s two major soil types converge in Cannubi, which, in his opinion, accounts for its wines’ complexity and power.  With a black-fruited imprint rather than the red-fruited signature of their Cerequio, Chiarlo’s 2010 Cannubi is denser with more power.  Despite its muscle, a sublime elegance persists.  The combination of power and elegance reverberates in the finish.  Engaging now, yes.  But do yourself a favor and keep it in the cellar for a decade to allow it to unfold.  This wine sings and explains why Barolo, especially the 2010s, are so revered.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 14, 2014