($18): Most rosé is an afterthought. Most of it results from a technique called saignée or bleeding, used to enhance red wine (once a tank of red grapes has been macerated briefly and the liquid has taken on a bit of color). The winemaker is focused on the red wine, not the rosé, and has selected and harvested grapes to make the best red wine possible. In the process of beefing up the red, a little rosé was made, not because the winemaker wanted to make rosé, but because he wanted to make a better red. In contrast, Bonny Doon, an innovative producer in so many ways, decides what style of rosé they want to make and then selects grapes in the vineyard and vinifies them in a way that will allow them to achieve their goal. The result is this delicately style rosé — a delight to drink. Light pink in color, fresh and clean on the palate, it’s invigorating and not heavy. Try it with summery salads.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2014