($15): I’ve had this wine twice in one week — and was impressed each time. Tasted blind at the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition, I awarded it a platinum medal because of its grace, precision, minerality and riveting acidity. Without realizing I had scored it so highly at the competition, I ordered a bottle at dinner in New York. Consumed over two hours, it was even better because it had time to truly express itself. The minerality became more evident, white pepper notes emerged, and yet its balance persisted. It was the perfect choice for steamed mussels and fries because its weight and edginess continued to cut through the food — and well-priced, too.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2014