($63): Suenen is a small family run “grower” Champagne producer based in Cramant, one of the top villages in the Champagne region for Chardonnay.  The so-called “grower” Champagnes are produced from the family’s own vineyards without relying on purchased grapes as most of the big name houses do.  I don’t think you can generalize whether “grower” Champagne is better or not than those bubblies from the big houses.  It all depends on the individual producer.  Judging from this wine, Suenen is a top producer.  Suenen limits the amount of added sugar — hence Extra Brut — so the inherent quality of the wine shines.  And does it ever shine.  Its creamy luxurious texture caresses the palate while beautifully balancing acidity provides verve and freshness. You’re sad when the bottle’s empty.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 3, 2014