($20): Randall Grahm, proprietor of Bonny Doon, is a winemaker who sets his own course and follows it.  Far before lower alcohol wines became the new mantra of California (let’s hope that’s not going to be a passing fad) Grahm was making well-proportioned flavorful wines.  And he continues to do so as this 2013 Clos de Gilroy demonstrates.  The flavors in this mid-weight wine sneak up on you and persist.  It doesn’t hit you over the head with power, but rather seduces you with persistent spicy and fruity notes that change with each sip.  A subtle bitterness in the finish adds to its allure.  It would be perfect for drinking tonight with anything from a roast chicken to a hearty pasta dish.
91 Michael Apstein May 13, 2014