($26, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Viré-Clessé is a relatively new appellation (1998) that was created from two towns, Viré and Clessé, that were formerly included with the more general Macon-Villages because the wines from those towns were judged to be more distinctive.  But the main point to remember is the producer’s name — Domaine Sainte-Barbe — because they make a very fine line-up of wines from throughout the Côte Maconnais.  In this one, the contribution of old vines, on average 50 years, comes through in an extra dimension of complexity.  It’s flinty, smoky and creamy all at once, with invigorating acidity that keeps it fresh.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2013