Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2011

($62): The age of the vines — the vineyard’s 40 years old — shows in this wine’s complexity and refinement.  It combines the brightness and liveliness character of Edwards’ Sonoma Coast bottling with the intensity of her Georganne Pinot Noir.  What’s most amazing is the way it unfolds in the glass, revealing more and more pleasure over a couple of hours.  Similar to all of Edwards’ Pinot Noirs, it’s intense without being heavy — the Burgundian idea of flavor without weight.  Despite that description, it clearly has a Russian River Valley signature.  This is not a Burgundy wannabe.  It’s just fantastic California Pinot Noir.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 12, 2013