($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Contrary to conventional wisdom, not all of Australia is hot. Indeed, the Yarra Valley in Victoria is quite chilly and, as this wine shows, perfectly suited for stylish Pinot Noir, a grape that doesn’t like the heat. Although I shutter at the cutesy names of many Australian wines, it’s impossible not to be thrilled by the quality — and price — of this one. Its light color belies its depth of flavor. Fresh red fruit notes dance across the palate and complement savory earthy ones. It delivers the magical “flavor without weight” character of Pinot Noir. And it’s a fabulous value, especially for Pinot Noir.
91 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2013