($54, Frederick Wildman):  Old vines, also exclusively from Jaboulet’s holding, make this a more complex wine.  Judicious oak aging amplifies the palate of flavor.  Less immediately overt because of a more tannic structure, it reveals itself slowly, especially in the finish.  An alluring meatiness emerges.  Graceful, powerful and long, it’s far better than many producers’ Hermitage. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2012