($20, Las Rocas USA):  In addition to added complexity, the old vines (viñas viejas) used for this bottling provide riper grapes that translates into a bigger, more robust wine than their regular bottling (previously reviewed).  Despite an added tarry component and more power, its additional class prevents it from going over the top.  Not for the faint of heart, match it with lamb or well-seasoned beef. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012