($119, Vineyard Brands):  Beaucastel is one of the top properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Year after year, they produce a multidimensional, age-worthy wine.  Although Mourvèdre and Grenache, at about 30% each, comprise the majority of the blend, Beaucastel uses all 13 grape varieties permitted in the appellation, which may explain the phenomenal complexity of their wines, especially the 2009.  Their 2009 combines exotic earthy nuances with ripe red and black fruit flavors without being overdone, alcoholic or heavy.  It’s remarkable for its power coupled with refinement and freshness.  New flavors emerge with each sip and after 30 minutes it’s as though you are tasting an entirely different wine.  Though seductive and engaging now, my experience with Beaucastel tells me it will evolve beautifully over the next two decades. Lovers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in general or Beaucastel in particular or will want this one in their cellars. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012