($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports):  Although Sauvignon Blanc is the required grape in Sancerre for white wine, authentic Sancerre evokes the place, not the grape.  Fortunately for consumers, Serge Laporte makes authentic Sancerre.  His importer tells me that half of the wine comes from Les Monts Damnés (the damned mountains) in Chavignol, considered by many to be Sancerre’s best site, which could explain why this wine is so distinctive.  Tinged with a flinty smokiness and buttressed by bracing acidity, it has body and depth.  It would be a great choice for grilled swordfish. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012