($74, W J Deutsch):  The popularity–and price–of Côte-Rôtie has skyrocketed recently.  In 1971, the appellation consisted of only 140 acres and was shrinking.  Currently it covers about 500 acres, divided principally between the steep slopes behind the town of Ampuis, named Côte Blonde and Côte Brune because of the sandy/limestone soil of the former and the iron containing clay soil of the latter.  Vidal-Fleury, now owned by Guigal, Côte Rôtie’s most famous producer, combines grapes from both slopes for this glorious wine, a blend of Syrah (95%) and Viognier.  It conveys both power, despite a stated alcohol of only 13%, and charm.  Gentle waves of black fruit, black and white pepper, hints of bacon fat and smoke wash across the palate.  I’m certain that cellaring will bring out more complexity, but it is so polished, approachable and full of flavor now, why wait. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2011