($19, Pacific Prime Wines):  Many consumers have become quite conscious of alcohol levels in wine these days (and that’s also true of many writers, for that matter), and this is a very unusual New World wine in how restrained it is in terms of alcohol content.  This was achieved by drawing the fruit from a site that faces south (which is the Southern Hemisphere equivalent of a north-facing site in the Northern Hemisphere) and naturally slows ripening and produces fruit with lower sugars.  Second, the fermentation was terminated before all of the sugars had been transformed into alcohol.  The wine is notably sweet with 44 grams of residual sugar, but very energetic acidity keeps it in balance and helps it achieve a flavor profile roughly akin to a Rheingau Riesling Kabinett from Germany.  Packed with fruit but not overly gushy or obvious, this is a delightful wine that proves enduringly interesting to drink thanks to the interplay of sweetness and acidity.  Buy this when you’re having the boss over for dinner; it will help you to avoid saying something stupid. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2011