($17):  The wine merchant and importer, Valckenberg acquired the Carl Graff estate in 1969 and sold off the vineyards, but kept the rights to the name, eventually dropping the Carl.  Hence, this is a négociant wine and shows just how good they can be when the selection is rigorous.  It weighs in on the less rich side of Spätlese with a captivating delicacy and nuances of white peaches.  Tongue tickling zesty acidity makes you smile.  Its precise flavors persist into a long and graceful finish.  It’s a perfect aperitif and a great match for spicy Asian fare. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2011