($25, Pasternak Wine Imports):  Regular WRO Readers know I am not a fan of rosé, but this one is an unusually attractive one.  The regulations for the Tavel appellation permit only rosé, which helps explain why rosés from that area are distinctive.  Made primarily from Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre from vines averaging 45 years, it has power and is closer to a light red than most rosés that pass themselves off as wine.  With its power, is balancing vibrancy and lip-smacking acidity.  Not a rosé for sipping before dinner, this bone-dry rosé is better suited for food–think grilled tuna. 90 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011