($165, Pasternak Wine Imports):  Cadettes is French for the second-born daughter.  (I can only imagine how the first-born daughter must have felt to be bypassed when La Nerthe selected the name for their flagship cuvée.)  The 2005, like its predecessors, is a gorgeous wine.  A blend of equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre fermented together, it is not made every year.  In 2007, a reportedly great year in Châteauneuf du Pape, the winemaker decided not to make it because the Mourvèdre didn’t fare so well and was not worthy of being included in their top wine.  Omitting the Mourvèdre was not an option because without it, the wine would have been unbalanced.  It’s that dedication to quality that makes this cuvée so consistently exciting.  The 2005 is an elegant powerhouse with layers and layers of spice, earth and fruit flavors.  It’s so packed, it’s almost chewy, but enlivened with invigorating acidity.  Amazingly, it’s not aggressive or overwrought.  Polished tannins allow you to enjoy it now although its true complexity with emerge with another five to 10 years of cellaring. 96 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011