($40, Palmina):  Priorat, a rugged, desolate and hot region is one of Spain’s top wine producing areas.  With alcohol levels easily reaching 15%, the wines are typically robust and powerful.  The best, like this one, convey an almost paradoxical elegance.  An explosion of exotic flavors–licorice and a tar-like minerality–burst force, but don’t overwhelm.  Surprisingly approachable now because of finely polished tannins, it’s a wine to drink when it’s frigid outside and there’s a garlic infused leg of lamb in the oven.  And it reminds people who rail about high alcohol wines–including myself–that it’s balance, not numbers, that matter. 94 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011