($12, Vineyard Brands): I wish regulations prohibited the use of Reserve when that’s all the producer makes (or exports). And the fact is, this wine needs no labeling hype. It’s very good. Made from the typical blend of white Rhone grapes–Viognier, Marsanne, Roussane, Bourblanc and Grenache Blanc–it’s floral and refined. Hints of honeysuckle are a foil for the delicate stone fruit notes. It avoids the heaviness that can plague whites from the southern Rhône. It would be equally at home before as with a meal. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 26, 2010