($20, Jean-Marie Dechamps):  Despite the fume in its name, I don’t find smokey notes consistently in wines from Pouilly-Fumé.  Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, says he often has difficulty distinguishing wines from Pouilly-Fumé from its across the river town of Sancerre since the soil in many spots on both sides of the river is similar.  This Pouilly-Fumé has a captivating nose of freshly cut grass and a chalky earthiness.  Its grapefruit-like tanginess is moderated slightly by a hint of creaminess, which softens the wine just a tad.  Still, there’s great acid in the finish, which amplifies the flavors. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 17, 2010