($43, Michael Skurnik):  Count me among those who love the detail of the German wine label.  They may be long, but like this one, it tells you what you want to know before you pull the cork.  The shortcut, of course, which works in this instance, is to just remember the producer.  It’s hard to find a wine from Josef Leitz that can’t be recommended.  Onto the label.  To begin, Rudesheim is the town and Berg Schlossberg the vineyard in the Rheingau.  Alte Reben means old vines, which helps explain its great complexity, and Trocken indicates it’s a dry style.  Not bracingly dry, there’s a whisper of sweetness that amplifies its flavors of peaches and spice. It has surprising—almost startling—concentration given its delicacy.  Long and refined, its vibrant acidity keeps you coming back for more. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010