($15, Margaux & Co.): Regulations for Corbières mandate that Carignan comprises no more than 50% of the blend to encourage the use of so-called improving varieties. The Cuvée Céline S, a blend of less than one-third Carignan—Syrah (40%) and Grenache account for the remainder—delivers a lovely balance of bright red and black fruit flavors and alluring spicy nuances.  It has a class and finesse rarely seen in wines from this appellation.  Fine tannins and good acidity give it just the right amount of structure to this moderately full-bodied wine and make it ideal for current consumption. 90 Michael Apstein May 18, 2010