($75):  This is one of America’s best bottlings of Pinot Noir.  Thankfully, it’s not an overdone powerhouse even thought the Laurène bottling is a selection of their best barrels. (Laurène is the name of the eldest daughter of Veronique Drouhin, who is in charge of the Oregon property).  Its grandeur lies in its length, finesse and complexity.  It delivers leafy, woodsy notes that complement the bright red fruit notes.  The effect of oak aging is noticeable–rounding out the wine and adding a discreet bacon fat-like savory quality–but doesn’t dominate.  Similar to Drouhin’s Burgundies, there is a lacy elegance to the wine. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2010