Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir “Paragon” 2011 ($20): Confusingly, though the name of the wine is “Paragon,” it does not come from the famed and vast — 875 acre — Central Coast Paragon Vineyard planted by Jack and Catharine Niven in the early 1970s.  Edna Valley Vineyard’s Paragon Pinot Noir is focused on sweet and bright cherry-like flavors with a dollop of spice.  A paucity of tannins allows you to enjoy it chilled with summery salads.
86 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2013

Concannon, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($16): It’s always a pleasure to find satisfying Pinot Noir, a notoriously expensive wine, at this price.  Concannon, justifiably well known for their Petite Sirah, blends a touch of that varietal to beef-up this Pinot Noir.  Theirs is a ripe and lush Pinot Noir that emphasizes straightforward black fruit flavors with an engaging suppleness. 85 Michael Apstein Dec 16, 2008

Estancia, Central Coast (California) Syrah 2005 ($12): This slightly grapey rendition of Syrah highlights the jammy side of that grape.  The sweet fruit and overall softness would make it a good choice for those who want a glass of red wine as an aperitif.  Its lack of tannin means you can chill it, which livens it a bit. 84 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008

Chalone Vineyard, Chalone (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir 2005 ($37): Chalone Vineyard, located in the eponymous AVA (analogous to Chateau Margaux’s location in the commune of Margaux) makes lovely Pinot Noir and Chardonnay consistently.  In this one, there’s sufficient cherry-like flavor common to many California Pinot Noir.  But what makes it distinctive is the seamless intertwining of earthy minerality that persists into the finish.  It’s a stylish–not overblown–wine that shows the graceful side of California Pinot Noir. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 16, 2008

Bokisch Vineyards, Clements Hills (Lodi, California) Garnacha Terra Alta Vineyard 2010 ($18):  This juicy wine has a light garnet color, with red cherry and raspberry aromas.  It’s fruit-forward, with cherry and mocha flavors, and a soft vanilla accent.  Light- to medium-bodied, and well balanced. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Endeavor” 2003 ($55): The expectations raised by an elaborate, heavy bottle are frequently unfilled. Not so with Dry Creek Vineyard’s 2003 Endeavour, a knockout of a wine.  A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, it is long and luxurious with deep fruit flavors and an earthy minerality.  Intense without being flamboyant, it has layers of flavor, polished tannins and finesse. Wineries charging $100-plus for their elite bottlings take notice. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2008

Merriam Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Block 21” 2005 ($35):

Peter Merriam has done a masterful job with this wine.  He believes Sonoma Cabernet can be more forward and says you need to be very careful with the oak so as not “to mask the flavors of the Sonoma fruit.”  Well, judging from this wine, he’s very careful about everything.   Beautifully balanced and graceful, a savory component–herbal and spice nuances–counterbalances the fruit flavors.  Hints of chocolate and coffee also peek out from the polished tannins.  Thankfully, it’s not “a killer Cabernet,” but rather a Cabernet with elegance–and an attractive price.

93 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2010

Sbragia Family Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel Gino’s Vineyard 2006 ($28): This is how Zinfandel should taste.  The vineyard, named after proprietor Ed Sbragia’s father, was planted 50 years ago and contains a bit of Petite Syrah and Carignan, which are co-fermented with Zinfandel, a classic Italian-style field blend.  It has wonderful complexity that is likely due to both vine age and the blend, delivering notes of dried black fruit, chocolate and spice.  The fruit flavors are briary rather than jammy.  Despite its intensity, it has elegance and balance.  The slight heat in the finish, reflective of 14.5% alcohol, does not seem out of place.  It’s a fitting tribute to Gino. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2009

Merriam Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Block 21’ 2004 ($35): Peter Merriam is liable to make a lot of his colleagues mad by selling such an extraordinary wine for the price.  No doubt the added bottle age helps, but a lovely array of flavors—from black fruit to a little chocolate to briary nuances—dance on your palate and show the extraordinary complexity Cabernet can deliver. Not overdone, the polished tannins make this classy wine easy to drink now. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Endeavour” 2006 ($60):  Dry Creek Vineyard’s top red wine is Endeavour from the eponymous estate vineyard in the Lytton Springs area of the Dry Creek Valley.  A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 6% Petit Verdot, Endeavour was aged for 27 months in French oak.  The color is a very deep ruby with thin purple edges, while the slightly closed nose offers scents of dark fruits like black currant.  The textured flavors are ripe with sweet fruit, anise and spice, 14.5% alcohol and it finishes with plenty of fruit and good structure. 91 Michael Apstein May 4, 2011

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (California) Meritage Red Wine 2003 ($28): A blend of 52 percent Merlot, 41 percent Cabernet, and the rest split between Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, Dry Creek Vineyard’s Bordeaux blend is warm and lush.  The ripe fruit dominates as soon as it hits your palate, but the tannins sneak up on you to give needed support and prevent it from being flabby and boring.  The end result is long beautifully balanced wine with hints of cocoa, caramel and coffee.  It may gain complexity and improve over the next several years, but frankly I would just enjoy it now. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel Beeson Ranch 2003 ($30): Zinfandel is not my favorite wine, but I can’t help liking this one. Full of ripe berry flavors, it still manages not to come across as hot. Although I hate to use “stylish” and “Zinfandel\” in the same sentence, this one really is, even at 14.5 percent alcohol. A big, muscular wine, it conveys class and even elegance. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006

Wilson Winery and Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Sydney Vineyard Reserve 2002 ($44): The Wilson family planted their first vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley in 1988.  Their first wine, a 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon, came from Sydney Vineyard.  The 2002 vintage of it reflects winemaker Diane Wilson’s philosophy of using very ripe fruit.  Rich and opulent, the wine–just on the edge of being ‘over the top’–manages to retain sufficient finesse and vivacity. Still, this is a wine for lamb, not veal. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007

Rancho Zabaco, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel Stefani Vineyard 2004 ($28): This is classic Zinfandel filled with power and character.  Bright fruit and spice dominate the tannins, which add appealing structure.  Exciting without being flamboyant, it carries its 15% alcohol nicely. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006

Dashe, Dry Creek Valley (California) Zinfandel Louvo Vineyard “Old Vines” 2004 ($32): The deep black fruit grabs your attention immediately.  Those who like powerful Zinfandel replete with ripe — almost overripe — character will find it attractive.  Considering the style, it demonstrates some elegance.  Still, this is a powerhouse best enjoyed on a cold winter night to accompany robust fare. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2007

Dashe, Dry Creek Valley (California) Zinfandel Florence Vineyard 2005 ($32): Dashe makes a series of vineyard-designated Zinfandels, all of which are big and powerful.  This nicely balanced one is not over-the-top and will appeal to those who like briary and spicy elements.  Those who want even more power and concentration should look at Dashe’s bottlings from Louvau or Todd Brother’s Ranch. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot 2005 ($19): Plummy and ripe with attractive herbal nuances and earthy notes in the finish, this Merlot is a serious wine.  The fine tannins make it easy to enjoy now, and the 13.5% alcohol reflects Dry Creek’s emphasis on substance without over extraction. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($23): Just as their lovely Merlot has a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties, Dry Creek’s Cabernet has a touch (19%) of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, which adds complexity.  Fortunately, it’s not in the ‘killer Cabernet’ category, but rather a nicely balanced mixture of herbal nuances and ripe black plum-like flavors.  This multi-layered wine has good structure to keep it lively throughout the meal. Kudos to Dry Creek for extracting this much flavor and only 13.5% alcohol. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot 2004 ($19): This supple, crowd-pleasing wine shows good richness and length.  It will make friends with those who like the very ripe style of Merlot without being heavy and over the top. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2007

Sbragia Family Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Andolsen Vineyard 2006 ($35): Sbragia buys grapes from his neighbor and family doctor, Dr. Andolsen to make this smooth and glossy wine filled with ripe black fruit flavors offset by chocolate nuances.  An intense wine, the fine supple tannins allow for immediate enjoyment.  Perfect for steak or lamb on the grill. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 7, 2009

Frei Brothers, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel 2011 ($20): This gutsy, opulent Zinfandel conveys ripe fruit flavors overlaid with spice.  The 14.9% stated alcohol explains the grip in the finish.  It would be a difficult wine to sip without food, but could easily stand up to serious barbeque or an herb-marinated grilled leg of lamb.
87 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013

Sbragia Family Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (California) Merlot Home Ranch 2006 ($25): Like Ed Sbragia, the legendary former winemaker at Beringer, this is a big wine.  Slightly pruney and dense, with chocolate overtones, this Merlot is a powerhouse, weighing in at a 15.6 percent stated alcohol. Despite its power, it’s a soft and supple wine, which Sbragia believes is the hallmark of Merlot grown in the Dry Creek Valley. 86 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009

Herzog, Edna Valley (California) Syrah 2004 ($30): This juicy, mouth-filling Syrah emphasizes ripe, plum-like character as opposed to the peppery notes that can also characterize that grape.  Soft tannins make it easy to enjoy now. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2007

Herzog, Edna Valley (California) Syrah “Special Reserve” 2005 ($32): This Syrah focuses on the plummy, rather than the peppery, flavors characteristic of that grape.  Soft tannins add to the roundness of this concentrated wine and make it a fine choice for current consumption.  A big wine suitable for lamb, it’s not over-the-top, and only those sensitive to alcohol will notice faint heat in the finish.  Oh, and it’s kosher. 85 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008

Sequana, Green Valley ((Russian River Valley, Sonoma County) Pinot Noir 2009 ($45):  Riper than the other Pinot offerings, Sequana’s Pinot Noir from Dutton Ranch is more concentrated.  Subtle black fruit notes are evident along with the lighter red fruit flavors.  It’s the “biggest” of this fine trio, but still not overdone, with an alluring combination of spicy earthy nuances and ripe fruit.  Similar to Sequana’s other Pinot Noirs, the tannins are silky and suave. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2011

Langtry, Guenoc Valley (California) Petite Sirah Serpentine Meadow Vineyard 2004 ($40): Langtry Estate and Vineyards is the largest producer in Lake County, which borders Napa to the south and Mendocino to the West.  Its specialty has always been Petite Sirah, a grape not known for grace or elegance. Yet, by using a light hand, they’ve manage to make one with great finesse.  The 2004, surely a wintertime wine, has plenty of ripe fruit complemented by spice, smoky elements and ripe tannins.  Dare I say, it also has charm. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2008

Brassfield, High Valley (California) Pinot Noir High Serenity Ranch 2004 ($24): High Valley, California’s newest American Viticultural Area (AVA), lies north of Napa at elevations running from 1,800 to 3,000 feet.  I suspect the elevation of Brassfield Estate Winery’s vineyards accounts for this impressive Pinot Noir. Despite weighing in at over 15% alcohol, it is elegant, not overdone. Lip-smacking acidity adds vivacity to balance the cherry-like fruitiness.  It has uncommon length and complexity, not just ‘in-your-face’ fruitiness. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006

Nickel & Nickel, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Vogt Vineyard 2003 ($85): This big but balanced wine turned out to be my favorite of nine upscale 2003 Napa Valley Cabernets tasted blind at the annual ‘Battle of the Cabernets’ tasting, a part of the Boston Harbor Hotel’s Annual Wine Festival.  It stood out not because of its size, but because it got better and better, revealing more complexity–tobacco elements atop cassis and minerality–as it sat in the glass over an hour.  It’s lush and ripe as expected, but shows unexpected finesse and fine tannins for a wine made from mountain grown grapes.  There is not a hint of hardness or aggressiveness that often plague such wines made from mountain-grown fruit.  A great example of power and elegance! 95 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2007

Six Sigma, Lake County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($42): This wine, from the producer’s second vintage, is mostly (84%) Cabernet Sauvignon, with the remainder comprised by Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.  All the grapes are from estate vineyards. The tannins are firm, not hard, and soften considerably with just 15 minutes in the glass to reveal lush fruit and an intriguing spicy, savory component.  It has the cedar, mineral and earthy notes, reminiscent of Bordeaux, with ripe fruit flavors that are the hallmark of California.  Without a trace of over-ripeness, it weighs in at less that 14% alcohol and is a powerful argument that flavorful complex wines need not be high in alcohol.  With many top notch California Cabs going for twice the price, this one is a bargain. 96 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

Six Sigma, Lake County (California) Tempranillo 2005 ($42): Certainly the best California Tempranillo I have ever tasted (which may not be saying much given the poor track record of that grape in California) the Six Sigma bottling is simply marvelous.  Exotic spice and savory notes coupled with ripe fruit character meld together seamlessly. A deft hand is apparent in the winemaking because although it was aged entirely in new oak, the wine is not ‘oaky’ or overdone, just beautifully balanced and polished.  The tannins are softer compared to the Six Sigma Cabernet, which makes the Tempranillo all the more immediately appealing.  Yet, it should evolve nicely because it has sufficient structure for the long haul.  The challenge will be resisting its charms now. 94 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

Six Sigma, Lake County (California) “Cuvée Picque-Nique” 2005 ($18): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (43%), Cabernet Franc (22%), Petit Verdot (21%) and Merlot (14%), this wine is an outlet for grapes not up to the Six Sigma standard for their flagship Cabernet.  The result is an easy-to-drink Bordeaux blend that manages to marry earthy savory non-fruit nuances with a healthy dose of ripe red and black fruit flavors.  It’s another good buy. 88 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

De Loach, Lake County (California) Zinfandel Nova Vineyard 2005 ($30): Replete with spice and intense black berry fruit-like flavors, this powerhouse Zinfandel has more elegance and better balance than one would expect for a wine with 15.5% alcohol.  It’s well suited for those who like ‘monster’ wines. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

Van Ruiten Vineyards, Lodi (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($19):  Here’s a deeply colored, medium-bodied Cab with notes of blackberry and black cherry fruit, cedar and vanilla.  It’s ripe, smooth and well-balanced, with soft tannins.  Try it with a grilled steak or hearty pot roast. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Campus Oaks, Lodi (California) Zinfandel “Old Vine” 2004 ($12): At barely over 14% alcohol, this wine shows restraint for a modern day Zinfandel.  Sweet fruit and spice dominate, but don’t assault you.  Thankfully, it is not the ‘over the top’ type of wine all too common these days.  Put it in my ‘pizza wine’ category. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2007

Patianna, Mendocino (California) Syrah Fairbarin Ranch 2003 ($33): From organic vineyards, this excellent, plumy Syrah delivers layers of black fruit flavors, earthiness and minerality. Marvelous balance and a supple long finish complete the picture. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006

Morgan, Monterey (California) Syrah 2002 ($22): Well known for their range of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Morgan also turns out sumptuous Syrah. Marked more by plum than spice notes, the engaging toasty oak grabs your attention, while the suave finish holds it. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006

Morgan, Monterey (California) Syrah 2002 ($22): Morgan, once known only for their splendid array of Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, dazzle with other varieties too, such as this Syrah. (Their Sauvignon Blancs are also consistently right on the money). With layers of black fruitthink plumsintertwined with toasty oak, it is a wonderfully balanced wine that is guaranteed to please. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006

Morgan, Monterey (California) Syrah 2007 ($20):

Toasty notes and hints of gaminess complement the succulent plum-like fruit flavors in this well-balanced Syrah.  Not over the top, lively acidity helps keep it in check.  Polish tannins allow you to enjoy it now.

89 Michael Apstein Dec 29, 2009

Morgan, Monterey County (California) Syrah 2009 ($20):  It’s likely the warm days and cool night climate of Monterey that allows Morgan to strike the balance of Syrah’s dual personality of plummy and peppery notes.  Although the primary focus is firmly on the fruit (the warm days speaking), there’s plenty of supporting spice and meaty nuances (cool nights) that add complexity and even a little intrigue.  A polished texture and the price make it all that more attractive.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 25, 2012

Talbott , Monterey County (California) Pinot Noir “Kali Hart” 2011 ($20): I reviewed and recommended Talbott’s fine trio of Pinot Noirs about five months ago and had the opportunity to taste them again.  They’ve all expanded and gotten better with just a few months in the bottle.  They represent a fabulous study in how a winemaking team stratifies their wines.    This, their “entry level” Pinot Noir, is arguably California’s finest Pinot Noir for the money.  This lighter weight wine delivers an engaging combination of leafy and floral notes that balance a delicate fruitiness.  Hints of smoke peek out.  It has a remarkable finish for an “entry level” wine.  Roast chicken with a mushroom sauce springs to mind.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2013

Ca’ Del Solo, Monterey County (California) Nebbiolo 2005 ($30): Italy’s noble grapes, such as Nebbiolo, do not thrive outside of that country.  That makes Randall Grahm’s version all the more impressive.  Its lovely smoky nuances–and even a hint of leather–complement notes of bright red fruit.  Firm supporting tannins–a hallmark of Nebbiolo–suggest that this wine will work best with food rather than as an aperitif.  Overall, this mixture of fruit and earth flavors would be a good choice to accompany a hearty pasta dish this winter. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 10, 2009

Ca’ Del Solo, Monterey County (California) Dolcetto 2006 ($22):

Bonny Doon Vineyard uses the Ca’ Del Solo label for their wines made from Italian varietals, such as Dolcetto, a grape not widely planted in California.   But judging from this wine, maybe more growers should try their hands at it.  Very fruity, this mid-weight wine has sufficient tannic structure and acidity to balance the vivid black fruit notes and to prevent it from coming across as sweet.

87 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2009

Hess Collection, Mount Veeder (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($48):   Mountain grown wines, especially those from Mt. Veeder, can have hard tannins accompanying the dense fruit.  But not this one.  Hess has crafted a wine of great concentration and power that delivers black fruit flavors, but is surprisingly approachable. That said, it’s still unevolved at this stage with hints of tar and minerality lurking beneath the surface, and will benefit from a few years of bottle age.  Its balance and supple tannins suggest it will be worth the wait.  If you must drink it now, decant it and let it breath for an hour or so and serve it with lamb chops or a grilled steak. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Mount Veeder Winery, Mount Veeder (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($32): Mount Veeder’s winemaker, Larry Levin, produced a wonderfully harmonious wine in 2003.  It has the intensity and minerality emblematic of wines made from fruit grown in mountain vineyards, but manages to avoid the hard tannins all too common in those wines.  The 2003 Mount Veeder Cabernet has a remarkable suppleness and balance.  Marred only by a touch of heat in the finish, reflecting its 14.5% alcohol, it is still an impressive achievement. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007

Hess Collection, Mount Veeder (Napa Valley, California) “Mountain Cuvee” 2004 ($35): This unusual blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc (a throwback to the 19th century unofficial ‘Bordeaux blend’ when wines from Hermitage were added to boost anemic wine) that actually works.  Intriguing herbal quality of Cabernet Franc, the plumy richness of Syrah and Merlot come together atop minerality presumably as a result of the well drained the Mountain location.  Unlike many wines from mountain locales, the tannins are firm, not austere, and add needed structure.  Still, drink it with food, not before dinner. 90 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007

Meadowcroft, Mount Veeder (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Estate Grown” 2005 ($56): A brawny style of Cabernet, this wine accurately reflects the origin of the grapes.  Dense cassis and other black fruit flavors, burly minerality, and apparent tannins speak loudly of mountain grown fruit.  A powerhouse, it needs a few more years in the cellar to allow the elements to soften and come together. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 10, 2009

Calera, Mt. Harlan (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2011 ($30): Rarely do you find such a stylish Pinot Noir at this price.  Calera, of course, is one of the great California Pinot Noir producers.  Their astounding single vineyard wines develop beautiful complexity with bottle age.  You get a hint of that grandeur in this young wine made from fruit grown in a variety of vineyards.  Not over ripe, nor overdone, it captures the delicacy of Pinot Noir and highlights both the sweet and savory aspects that this varietal can deliver.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 12, 2013

Folie à Deux, Napa County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($28): This 100% Cabernet has the same ripe rich fruit profile as their 2006 Merlot (also reviewed this week), but with slightly firmer–but by no means hard–tannins characteristic of Cabernet.  Chocolate notes add complexity and adequate acidity adds balance and verve. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Folie à Deux, Napa County (California) Merlot 2006 ($24): A bit (15%) of Syrah adds muscle and an extra dollup of plum-like black fruit flavors to this already packed and polished Merlot.  Bright primary berry flavors pour forth in this forward and plush wine.  Smooth tannins add to the suppleness of this easy-to-drink flavor-packed wine. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard and Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($115): There are good wines and then there are great wines.  Spottswoode’s 2003 Cabernet is clearly one of the great ones.  Made exclusively from grapes grown in their vineyards on the western edge of St. Helena, their 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon is impeccably balanced.  It is reminiscent of wines from Pauillac because of the combination of layered black fruit flavors and minerality.  Supple ripe tannins provide adequate backbone without intruding on the wine’s core of fruit.  Like a great sauce, it’s hard to isolate any one of components–a little toastiness, sweet fruit, some chocolate (the list could go on) because none of them dominate.  They meld seamlessly into each other.  Silky and polished, each taste brings new flavors as the wine unfolds in the glass.  Unlike many expensive California Cabernets, there are no over-ripe flavors, no heaviness or alcoholic burn.  Anyone who thinks the 2003 vintage for Cabernet in California was a washout should taste this extraordinary wine. 97 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2007

Trefethen Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Halo” 1997 ($175): Trefethen’s first vintage of its super-duper bottling has evolved and developed perfectly at 10 years.  Primary fruit flavors persist, but are supplemental by alluring layers of secondary flavors of coffee, caramel and herbal nuances that persist into a seemingly endless finish.  It sings rather than shouts.  It massages your mouth instead of assaulting it.  It’s notable for its modest — by today’s standards — 13 percent alcohol and makes you wonder if today’s high alcohol wines will turn out so well. The wine is no longer available at retail, so the listed price is approximate. 97 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Dominus, Napa Valley (California) 2005 ($150): The 2005 Dominus makes you think all the previous ones were just works in progress.  The vines are older on average than those that produced prior vintages, and current viticulture and winemaking practices are more sophisticated.  The result is a gorgeous wine with an explosive nose that predicts a gustatory delight.   Layers of ripe black current-like fruit merge effortlessly with hints of minerals and those hard-to-characterize earthy flavors.  The tannins are so finely polished, you hardly notice them, but they provide needed structure and balance.  Quite sumptuous now, it’s extraordinary complexity and balance suggests it will just become better with bottle age. 96 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($60):  Although Grgich Hills is certified biodynamic, I suspect it’s Mike Grgich’s overall commitment to quality that makes this wine sing.  Anyone looking for a great example of the oft-overused description of balance should taste Grgich’s 2007 Cabernet.  Yes, it conveys ripe flavors as you’d expected from a wine with a 14.8% stated alcohol.  But it’s fresh and lively, with engaging savory notes and finely polished tannins that give structure without being astringent or aggressive.  As it expands in the glass, it’s both juicy and chewy.  Each sip conveys additional nuances.  It’s a delight to find such power and finesse. 96 Michael Apstein May 3, 2011

Napa Source, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Family Home” 2003 ($60): Bill Davies, whose family showed that high quality sparkling wine was possible in California when they released the first vintage of Schramsberg, and Tom Gamble, a longtime Napa Valley grape grower, have formed a partnership that makes a stunning series of wines.  The fruit for this superb Cabernet comes from a small–3.5 acre–Gamble family vineyard in the Oakville district of Napa Valley.  With layers of deep black fruit flavors mixed with an engaging minerality, this Cabernet Sauvignon is my favorite of an excellent group.  The supple tannins allow you to enjoy it now, but I suspect it will have even more complexity in another year or two. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($60): The 2010 is another one of Grgich Hills’ great Cabernets.  It has plenty of power, but the Grgich team does not succumb to the big overdone style so common in California.  This exciting wine is replete with black fruit flavors, herbs and even a whiff of olives.  Savory notes add a wonderful counterpoint.  Fine tannins impart a luxurious texture while simultaneously lending structure.  This is the epitome of Napa Valley Cabernet.  Hard to resist now, my experience with Grgich’s Cabernets is that they develop marvelously because they are balanced and not overwrought.
95 Michael Apstein Sep 24, 2013

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2005 ($42): One whiff tells you that you are on to something really good here. The aromatics are filled with hints of smoke, earth and spice, not just fruit.  Those hints carry through on the palate in this long and lush wine.  Just when you think it has nothing left to offer, hints of game and other exotic flavors emerge.  The fine, fully ripe tannins add support without astringency.  This beautifully balanced Merlot will convert those skeptical that this varietal can make superb wine. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009

Joseph Phelps, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($75): Phelps is one of the great names for Napa Valley Cabernet.  They don’t disappoint with their 2010.  It delivers everything–dark fruit, herbs, even a hint of black olives–all the while being glossy and suave.  There’s not a trace of heaviness or jammy flavors despite its impressive impact. Its freshness imparts an exciting energy.  The exceptional finish leaves your palate with just a trace of bitterness.  Most amazingly, this Cabernet holds its own after tasting Phelps’s acclaimed $225 a bottle Insignia.
95 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2013

Napanook, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($45): I am reluctant to refer to a $45 wine as a bargain, especially in these economic times, but considering its quality and the prices of comparable Napa Cabernets, the 2006 Napanook is one.  The second wine of Dominus, the 2006 Napanook is a seamless Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (87%), Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot (each 5%) and Merlot. This gorgeous wine delivers a captivating herbal element to accompany its core of black fruit flavors.  Its virtue lies in what it doesn’t deliver as much as what it does.  It’s not oak laden, nor over extracted, nor filled with fruit.  Rather, it has a broad palate of intriguing non-fruit flavors, subtle oak influences and suave polished tannins. It has elegance and complexity, not just power, although there’s plenty of that too.  Remarkably enjoyable now, it’s a reminder of how great Napa Valley Cabernets can be.  It’s hard to believe this is a “second” wine. 95 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Neyers Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Syrah “Cuvée d’Honneur” 2005 ($48): You could describe this wine in one word, fabulous.  Less than 10% of Neyers’s annual 15,000 case production is Syrah and of that, only about 10% is this wine, which means you’ll have to search for it.  The name, Cuvée d’Honneur, is an acknowledgment and thanks to Thierry Allemand, a stellar producer in Cornas, in the northern Rhone Valley, who encouraged Neyers to use a so-called traditional, non-interventional approach including no sulfur during fermentation (They use some just prior to bottling).  Most of the fruit comes from the Carneros area of Napa with the remainder from Sonoma Coast.  This layered, multi-dimensional Syrah combines both the plummy and peppery aspects of that grape’s personality.  Not an over-the-top Syrah, it marries plummy fruit, spice with gamey elements and hints of bacon fat.  The silky tannins give it a polished patina.  Start searching. 95 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008

Provenance Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) 2006 ($45):  Provenance Vineyards is aptly named.  The vineyard was originally purchased by George de Latour as part of the Beaulieu Vineyard winery in the early 20th century and is now owned by Andy Beckstoffer, one of Napa’s best-known viticulturists.  Add to that, Tom Rinaldi, who helped start Duckhorn Vineyards in 1978, as the director of winemaking.  It may not be surprising that this Cabernet is beautifully proportioned, but with so many California Cabernets being oversized and overdone, it’s a delight to see an emphasis on finesse.  He and his team have the good sense not to overwork the wonderful raw materials that the site provides.  Gorgeous aromas are followed by plenty of dark fruit flavors, herbal notes and a healthy dollop of other non-fruit nuances, all supported by polished tannins.  Not a massive wine, it impresses with complexity and length. 95 Michael Apstein Feb 8, 2011

Ramey Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($50):  David Ramey is a marvelous winemaker.  He takes excellent Napa Valley fruit and lets it speak instead of overworking and over extracting it.  His 2006 Cabernet has plenty of weight and substance without sacrificing elegance or complexity.   Spicy nuances, herbal notes and a dark minerality act as a foil to succulent black fruit flavors.  Ample acidity keeps it fresh.  Finely polished tannins mean you can easily enjoy it without further aging, but its overall balance suggests it will evolve beautifully. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 4, 2011

Twomey, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2005 ($55): One sip explains why the American public fell in love with Merlot.   The wine comes from grapes grown in a single vineyard, Soda Canyon Ranch, in southeastern Napa Valley.  Morning fog keeps the vineyard cool and retards ripening, allowing more flavors to develop.  The epitome of power and elegance, the wine marries dark dense black cherry-like flavors with leafy notes and silky tannins.  Sour cherry acidity prevents it from being overdone.  Glossy and long, with real complexity in the finish, it’s a joy to drink now. 95 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010

Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($32): Clos de Val’s wines, across the board, are beautifully balanced and harmonious.  Neither the wines nor the prices are overblown.  This Cabernet has real complexity, a minerality and black fruit–Pauillac-like–richness, coupled with a luxurious silkiness. 94 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot “Estate Grown” 2003 ($85): I often compare Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to a filet mignon and a strip steak.  The filet (Merlot) is more tender (supple) but less flavorful than its neighbor across the bone.  Carrying that analogy further, this Merlot is a superb filet.  Silky smooth and supple–but by no means flabby or soft–it has extraordinary flavor and an exotic gamy touch which makes it a delight to drink.  A marvelously ripe and fleshy wine, it is balanced, not overdone. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2007

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Estate Grown 2008 ($42): One of the striking things about Grgich Hills Estate is how they excel across their whole range. Some wineries do well with one or two varietals, but Grgich gets them all right. This Merlot, quite serious stuff, is a perfect example, marrying succulent black fruit with minerality. Concentrated without being overdone, its grandeur extends into its long and reverberating finish. For those who bash Merlot, try this one. It’s a marvelous example of how that varietal, in the right hands, can be the base for great wine. This is not “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” before dinner. But rather, “I’ll have this one with a steak.”
94 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2013

Michael Mondavi Family Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Oso Vineyard “Emblem” 2008 ($50): It should surprise no one that Michael Mondavi, one of Robert’s sons, can make a stunning Cabernet since that was the flagship varietal of The Robert Mondavi Winery when the family controlled it. Emblem reflects the mountain vineyard origin of the grapes. A bold wine with ripe flavors, it remains balanced and not overdone. Importantly, a gorgeous, almost tarry, mineral component is the perfect foil for the lush fruit notes. This wine reveals itself as it sits in the glass. At first all that is apparent is big black fruit, but with time the layered non-fruit components emerge. It finishes mineraly, not sweet. At this stage, the tannins are a big prominent and the flavors haven’t all come together yet, but I have no doubt that it will settle down after a few years in the cellar.
94 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2013

Robert Mondavi, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003 ($125): Mondavi’s Reserve Cabernet has always lacked the flamboyance of other Napa Valley Cabernets, to its credit in my mind.  If one were to compare it to a red Bordeaux, as the Mondavis always have, I would place it in St. Julien, not Pauillac. Its rich balanced plushness does not hit you over the head immediately, but pulls you in gradually.  Gorgeous aromas come out of the glass. Sweet fruit and a beguiling herbal quality follows. The tannins persist in the finish suggesting a few years of bottle age are warranted. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007

Signorello Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) “Padrone” 2006 ($110):

The extraordinarily heavy, pretentious bottle and cork covered with an almost impossible-to-remove vinyl covering made me want to dislike this wine.  But it’s impossible not to be seduced by this gorgeous Bordeaux blend–Cabernet Sauvignon (83%), Merlot (12%) and Cabernet Franc. The grapes come from a rocky, low-yielding part of the vineyard at a high elevation.  I suspect in addition there must be barrel selection because, compared to Signorello’s Cabernet Sauvignon, the tannins are extraordinarily smooth and polished.  There’s a spectacular panoply of flavors–from fruit to coffee to chocolate and herbs–but the texture is what seduces.  It’s not soft, just plush and has elegance for such power.

94 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2010

St. Supéry, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($34):  I wish more California Cabernets had this wine’s elegance and balance because it shows why Napa Valley has the justifiable reputation for great wine.  Intriguing herbal notes complement the mélange of black and red fruit-like flavors.  Chocolate and coffee nuances peak out from the supple refined tannins.  Not overdone with a stated alcohol below 14 percent, you can appreciate the complexity and nuances this wine has to offer.  It’s a lovely wine for dinner tonight, but I suspect it will evolve beautifully over the next several years because of its impeccable balance. 94 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010

William Hill, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($35):  This is the kind of Cabernet that made Napa Valley famous.  It delivers everything you’d want in Cabernet without going over the top.  The black fruit notes are present but not overwhelming and offset by herbal, even tobacco-like, nuances.  The polished tannins are smooth, which means you could easily enjoy it with a steak tonight.  Unlike many current California wines, it finishes with a refreshing hint of bitterness that actually amplifies its underlying black current fruitiness.  This is a sophisticated wine that delivers far more than the price suggests. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012

Antica, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($55): The name reflects the owner and the locale — Antinori California. Antinori, of course, is one the leading winemakers in Tuscany. Piero, the patriarch, has traveled to California for forty years and has a depth of experience with the state’s vineyards and their potential. It shows in this wine. It has lovely austerity and minerality, yet is fully ripe. Taut and muscular, it has remarkable elegance for the power that comes from mountain grown grapes. It’s easy to enjoy now, but give it a few years and watch it really blossom.
93 Michael Apstein May 7, 2013

Faust, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($55): Born nine years ago, Faust started, basically, as the second wine of Quintessa, the Napa Valley iconic wine of Agustin Huneeus. The Quintessa property has the usual Bordeaux varieties–even an acre of Carménère–planted in multiple soil types with varying exposures. Since not all of the grapes from Quintessa’s 165 acres meet Huneeus’s exacting standards or are compatible with the Quintessa style, he created, in the Bordeaux tradition, a second wine, which he labeled Faust. Gradually the sources for Faust expanded and now grapes from other Napa Valley vineyards that Huneeus owns as well are some that they purchase comprise Faust. Dense and powerful, yet not over the top, the 2010 Faust delivers sweet black fruit supported by the signature suave tannins of Huneeus’s wines. But there’s more than just fruit in the glass. Engaging spice, herbal notes and bright acidity make you want to take another sip. Anyone for a leg of lamb?
93 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013

Flora Springs, Napa Valley (California) “Trilogy” 2004 ($65): Flora Springs’ Bordeaux-blend is always a standout among upper end California red wines.  The 2004, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc–sometimes they include Petit Verdot and Malbec–is a lovely, harmonious powerhouse.  Layers of flavors–olives, minerals, black fruit–bombard the palate while bright acidity and smoothly polished tannins provide needed structure and hold it all together. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Frank Family Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($50): This is a rich (14.5%-stated alcohol) and opulent Cabernet that transmits cassis and plumy notes wrapped in suave tannins. Though the focus here is on power, its plush and polished texture allows for immediate enjoyment. Think of it as a steakhouse wine.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2013

Girard, Napa Valley (California) “Artistry” Red Wine 2005 ($40): Girard’s blend in 2005–Cabernet Sauvignon 54%, Cabernet Franc 22% and Petit Verdot 14% with the remainder split between Malbec and Merlot–may be unusual for a Napa Valley Bordeaux-blend.  But it works splendidly.  When you get Cabernet Franc ripe, it can deliver a fabulous combination of fruit and herbal flavors (Remember, Chateau Cheval Blanc relies heavily on Cabernet Franc in its blend).  Floral elements in the nose grab your attention and the interplay of rich dark fruit and spicy herbal nuances atop polished tannins hold it.  It’s lush and ripe without being sweet or overdone. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 25, 2008

Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2007 ($42):  California cult wines receive a lot of press and fanfare, but none can compete with Grgich Hills for the range of consistently superb wines they produce, from Cabernet to Chardonnay to even Zinfandel.  This Merlot is serious stuff.  It’s a beautiful combination of savory briary notes and ripe dark fruit.  Neither dominates in this tightly wound and polished wine.  It’s concentrated yet not overdone.  You’d never guess it has a stated alcohol of 14.8%. Despite its glossiness and succulent nuances in the long finish, this is not an aperitif type of Merlot.  It cries for food.  I’d give it a few years of additional aging to let it open up and reveal even more.  If drinking it now, give it time in the glass. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 15, 2011

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($60):  This exciting wine is a gorgeous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%), Petit Verdot (6%), Merlot (3%), and Cabernet Franc.  The spice box bouquet accurately predicts what’s to follow on the palate.  A beguiling combination of herbs and spices complement the plum and other black fruit-like flavors.  Despite the very ripe fruit–which translated to a 14.5% stated alcohol–it maintains a glorious freshness and liveliness.  A lovely savory element, most noticeable in the finish, reemphasizes the wine’s complexity.  The finely polished tannins let you enjoy it now, but Grgich’s Cabernets have a firm track record of evolving and developing with a decade of bottle age, so put some in the cellar. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010

Hestan Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Red Wine “Stephanie” 2006 ($60):

Hestan Vineyards, owned by the Stanley and Helen Cheng family, comprises 42 acres planted to the five Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.  All five grapes contributed to this gorgeous wine, which, although not their top-of-the-line or most expensive, has incredible balance and finesse, despite it’s 14.9%-stated alcohol.  Layered and broad, it explodes with spice and dark fruit flavors.  Glossy tannins lend support without intruding.  It’s a big wine, to be sure, but not overdone and shows the grandeur of red wines from the Napa Valley.

93 Michael Apstein Mar 9, 2010

Lail Family Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) “J. Daniels Cuvée” 2003 ($110): Robin Lail and her family have played an essential role in the history of winemaking in Napa.  Gustav Neibaum, who founded Inglenook Estate, one of Napa’s first premium wineries, was Robin Lail’s great granduncle.  Before founding Lail Family Vineyards, Robin founded Dominus Estate with Christian Moueix and established Merryvale Vineyards with Bill Harlan.  In 1995, she sold her interests in Dominus and Merryvale and started Lail Family Vineyards.  Their 2003 J. Daniels Cuvée, a flagship bottling made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, is a stunning young wine.  Its youthful, tannic edge is balanced beautifully by underlying black fruit flavors and nuances of chocolate and herbs.  Its extraordinary length promises great enjoyment with a few years of bottle age. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2007

Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley (California) Red Wine Reserve 2004 ($80): The aromas that emanate from the glass predict a treat.  You are not disappointed as the flavors–red and black fruits, grilled meat and herbs–dance across the palate.  Oak nuances complement rather than overwhelm.  It’s an explosive wine with intensity and tannins suggestive of mountain grown fruit.  It would benefit from a few more years of bottle age to allow the wine to soften and come together.  This broadly expressive Cabernet demonstrates the grandeur of Napa Valley. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 17, 2009

Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($38): The 2010 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon is an excellent example of why Napa Valley Cabernet stands with the best wines in the world.  Redolent with black fruit offset by smoke and minerality, this sturdy wine has marvelous grace and poise for such concentration.  Though polished tannins are immediately apparent, the panoply of flavors expand in the glass.  It’s a joy to taste, but the real treat is to drink it while savoring juicy lamb chops at dinner.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

St. Supery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2002 ($24): Most California producers released their 2002 Merlots a couple of years ago.  I am thrilled that St. Supery did not because the extra dimension this wine has acquired with a little bottle age is extraordinary.  Sure, it has the hallmark California ripe black fruit qualities, but it has developed an intriguing non-fruit character of earthiness and tobacco.  Wonderfully balanced, it weighs in at a modest–at least these days–13.5% alcohol.  This is a classy wine at very attractive price. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2007

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Artemis” 2008 ($55):  Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars showed the world the quality of California wines when its 1973 Cask 23 came in first, beating four Bordeaux first-growths, in the now famous 1976 Paris blind tasting.  Their single vineyard estate Cabernets, labeled Fay Vineyard, S.L.V. and Cask 23, are still on everyone’s short list of great California wine.  And the prices of those wines ($100-200 a bottle) reflect their quality and demand.  Their Artemis label represents a blend of made from their estate vineyards and purchased fruit and is a terrific introduction to the classy and restrained style of Stag’s Leap.  Like all of Stag’s Leap’s wines, Artemis is concentrated and focused, but not overdone.  It delivers a splendid combination of dark cassis-like flavors intertwined with attractive mineraly, almost tarry, elements.  Stylish and long, it’s remarkably enjoyable now, but its balance and the history of the producer suggests it will evolve nicely with cellaring.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 7, 2012

Sterling Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) “SVR Reserve” 2006 ($55):  Sterling Vineyards, like Beaulieu Vineyard, was one of the wineries that helped put Napa Valley on the map–but then lost its way.  Well, if this wine is any indication, it’s back.  Although the appellation is Napa Valley, just under 20% of the grapes for this almost-Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Merlot (18%), Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah (2% each) come from the Alexander Valley.  It’s a well-crafted blend that delivers black and red fruit flavors offset by non-fruit notes that add complexity and keep it interesting.  Plush and polished, it would be an excellent choice for a steak tonight. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 4, 2011

Antica, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($55):  The name, Antica, is derived from Antinori and California.  Antinori, one of the grandest names in Italian wine, invested in California more than 25 years ago, but for a variety of reasons, started producing this distinctive wine only a few years ago.  Distinctive because as a Napa Valley Cabernet, it has incredible freshness and verve, as though there’s a touch of Sangiovese in the blend.  Although primarily fruit driven, a subtle earthiness and an attractive hint of gaminess are a perfect complement to bright black cherry notes.  Finely polished tannins allow immediate consumption, but its balance suggests further complexity will emerge with bottle age. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 1, 2011

Antica, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($55):  Since Antinori was the one who trumpeted using Cabernet in Tuscany, it’s only natural that he should make sensational wine from it in California (Antica is a contraction of “Antinori in California”).  It’s a full-bodied wine, but not the overripe and overdone style so commonly seen currently in California Cabernet.  Antinori’s combines black currant-like fruitiness with herbal and leafy elements.  The tannins are polished and lend support without being aggressive.  Lovely to drink now with a steak or lamb chops, it’s bound to gain complexity with a decade of bottle age given Antinori’s track record. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012

Chappellet, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($46): Similar to Chappellet’s 2005 Merlot, their Cabernet is a classy young wine.  A gentle toastiness–from oak aging–compliments rather than overwhelms the ripe black fruit-like flavors.  Polished, fine tannins lend needed structure without assaulting the palate. 92 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($60): Here is another excellent wine from the maligned 2003 vintage.  Firmer, as expected, than their silky Merlot, the lush, spicy flavors of Duckhorn’s Cabernet shine through.  Despite its boldness and size, it’s a polished, classy wine that is showing well now.  Lip smacking black-cherry acidity in the finish makes you go back for another sip. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2007

Far Niente, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2007 ($45): Far Niente is certainly one of Napa’s leading producers in part because they focus on just two wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon and this Chardonnay.  As with their Cabernets, they manage to extract maximum flavor from their Chardonnay grapes without going over-the-top and making an alcoholic fruit bomb.  More tightly-wound than many California Chardonnays, the wine’s richness is beautifully balanced by edgy citric notes.  An alluring smoky creaminess emerges as it sits in the glass. It’s a stylish wine. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

Franciscan, Napa Valley (California) “Magnificat” 2004 ($50): Franciscan is one of my favorite California producers because they combine power and complexity in their wines.  Magnificat, their Bordeaux-blend–the 2004 is roughly 50-50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot–is always outstanding and this year’s release is no exception.  It delivers layered flavors of earthiness, ripe red and black fruits and touches of herbs.  It has great length and firm–but not intrusive–tannins that lend support.  No question, it’s a big powerful Napa Valley Cabernet, but what impresses is the complexity and balance. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($35): Perhaps less really is more.  Freemark Abbey, one the classic Napa Valley wineries, continues to produce balanced wines with finesse that you want to drink, not just taste.  An engaging mixture of black currant fruit, spice, herbal elements–all of which linger into the finish–reminds us why Napa Valley is one of the world’s great areas for that grape.  This stylish wine manages to deliver plenty of punch without resorting to overripe grapes and excessive alcohol. Layers of flavors, fine tannins, and a sense of freshness keeps you coming back to this Cabernet. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 16, 2008

Grgich Hills Cellar, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2001 ($38): Prior to 1999, Grgich bottled no Merlot, opting to blend it into his Cabernet Sauvignon. I’m glad he changed his mind. This is real Merlot with lots of plush chocolate and black cherry flavors. Supple tannins and lip-smacking acidity make it a perfect wine for tonight. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 1, 2005

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2007 ($35):  Zinfandel is a wine people either love or hate.  (Full disclosure, it is my least favorite wine).  The people who hate it find them big, overly alcoholic and over the top, precisely the same attributes that Zinfandel lovers praise.  This is a Zinfandel that both “haters” and “lovers” can like.  No doubt, it’s a big, spicy briary wine.  But there is class here with layers of flavors and spice.  It is not just punching you in the face with black fruit and alcohol.  There’s actually elegance here reminiscent of bold wines from the south of France or southern Italy.  It would be a good choice for grilled leg of lamb.  Grgich is a genius the way he works magic with this grape. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2011

Havens, Napa Valley (California) Syrah 2002 ($24): Havens has managed to capture Syrah’s dual personality in their wine. Plum-like flavors characteristic of Syrah planted in warm climates mingle nicely with the beefier character Syrah exhibits in cooler climes. Not only complex, this is polished and long. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006

Hess, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Allomi’ 2004 ($25): The panoply of flavors from the glass reinforces why Napa Valley is such an excellent place to grow Cabernet Sauvignon.  The fine, unobtrusive tannins balance the ripe black fruit nicely adding requisite structure without intruding.  It’s so harmonious you don’t even notice the 14.5 % alcohol.  Elegance comes through in the long finish. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006

Hestan Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot “Stephanie” 2006 ($35): This big (14.8% stated alcohol), well-proportioned Merlot is serious stuff, better suited for a steak than a before-dinner aperitif.  Aged two years in French oak, this generous wine delivers succulent fruit, but has sufficient structure and complexity to avoid the label of a “fruit bomb.”  A glossy texture makes it an appealing choice now. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2010

Mount Veeder Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($40): This Cabernet continues the string of fine Cabernet based wines that Mount Veeder Winery has produced over the last several years.  Dazzling flavors of black fruit, minerals and earthiness follow similar aromatics and persist into a long finish.  Big and powerful, this nicely balanced wine carries its 14.5% stated alcohol effortlessly.  The supporting tannins are apparent, but appropriate for the size and intensity of the wine.  This lovely Napa Valley Cabernet will be even more succulent after a few years in the cellar. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2009

Pine Ridge, Napa Valley (California) Merlot “Crimson Creek” 2005 ($32): If all California Merlot tasted like this one, it would never have been a target for derision.  Fragrant aromas of red and black fruits give way to those flavors complemented by a hint of gaminess or leafiness that is the hallmark of sophisticated Merlot.  Fine tannins and freshness are a beautiful counterweight to its overall lushness. Those winemakers who insist high alcohol is a necessary by-product of obtaining ripe flavors should taste this under 14% alcohol wine. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2008

Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 2009 ($48): For some unexplained reason, wines from Silverado Vineyards seem to fly under the radar. Judging from this Cabernet Sauvignon, they shouldn’t. Minerally and dense, it has persistence without being in your face. Not a boisterous fruit bomb, it shows why Napa Valley is renown for Cabernet. Its polished texture makes it easy to enjoy now. A refreshingly slightly bitter, not sweet, finish just reminds you it’s the real deal.
92 Michael Apstein May 7, 2013

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Artemis” 2010 ($55): Suave and succulent. That’s it in a nutshell. Glossy tannins enrobe gorgeous deep cassis-like flavors. Hard to resist now because of its silky texture, Artemis will undoubtedly take on more complexity with age because of its beautiful balance. The grapes are both estate (from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ vineyards) and purchased from growers proving that you don’t need to own the vineyards to make exceptional wine.
92 Michael Apstein May 7, 2013

Summers Estate, Napa Valley (California) Charbono 2009 ($20): Charbono was a popular planting in California during the early 20th century and went—anonymously–into a lot of red wine. There’s not much planted now, which is too bad because it makes a bold and gutsy, yet not overly flamboyant, wine. Summers Estate makes a particularly attractive one with velvety tannins and perky acidity. It’s a good choice for the grilling season.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 16, 2013

Tom Eddy, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Dr. Crane Vineyard” 2001 ($115): Aged 27 months in oak and another 22 months in bottle, this Cabernet–their current release–is still young and forceful.  Layers of black fruit intertwined with minerals and earth dominate the flavor profile in this succulent wine.  A true powerhouse, uplifting black cherry acidity keeps it from being overdone. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2008

Dominus, Napa Valley (California) 2003 ($110): Although not the current release, the 2003 Dominus is still available at the wholesale and retail level.  Showing a leafy, exotic essence in the nose–perhaps the small amount of Cabernet Franc showing–it delivers engaging complexity with earthy notes on the palate to complement the ripe black fruit flavors.  This is Christian Moueix’s 20th vintage of Dominus, and it provides lots of enjoyment now, but there’s no rush to drink it because its balance and fine tannins ensure a graceful evolution. 91 Michael Apstein Jun 24, 2008

Flora Springs, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($30): Flora Springs produces red wines with intensity and power, yet are not overdone.  This savory Cabernet–redolent of black olives and herbal flavors–has polished tannins and an uplifting finish.  Alluring wine at a very attractive price. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Franciscan, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($28): Even though Janet Myers, Franciscan’s talented winemaker, did not perform the fermentation of this wine (she became winemaker in 2005), she blended the components.  Her considerable skills are evident in this well-balanced wine that shows why Napa Valley Cabernets rank with the world’s great wines.  The first hint of delight comes from great aromatics followed by a full plate of flavor.  This is not just a fruit-driven wine, but rather it delivers a palate pleasing combination of earthy notes, leafy nuances, hints of tobacco in addition to lush primary fruit, uplifting freshness and well-integrated tannins. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2008

Girard, Napa Valley (California) “Artistry” 2004 ($40): Paul Lukacs, my WRO colleague, and I may not always agree on which wines we’d like to drink, but we almost always agree on the characteristics of the wine.  With this wine, however, our assessments diverge.  I failed to perceive the ‘final sugary note’ that bothered him (Nov 13, 2007 review).  To be sure, this is a big, ripe wine — over 14 percent alcohol — conveying plenty of power from the traditional blend of Bordeaux grapes (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon complemented by Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc).  Vibrant black cherry-like acidity and fine tannins balance dense black fruit flavors.  An alluring minerality adds complexity.  Even those who usually shun the in-your-face kind of wine will be surprised by this one. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2007

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2009 ($42): Here’s real Merlot.  It conveys the perfect hint of leafy funkiness, which should characterize wines made from that grape, to complement its fruitiness.  Juicy and concentrated, glossy tannins make it a delight to drink now.  More savory character emerges as it sits in the glass, so savor it over dinner with a hearty hanger steak. It’s definitely not a “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” at the bar type of wine.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2013

Louis M. Martini, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($34): Louis Martini, one of the legendary California producers, makes three distinct Cabernets–from Napa Valley, Sonoma County and the Alexander Valley region within Sonoma County.  One of the joys of tasting — and drinking — them is to see that the French don’t have a monopoly on the concept of terroir.  These wines, made from the same variety of grape and by the same winemaking team, show a family resemblance.  But they are still distinct, a difference which must stem from the vineyard site.  Of the three, this one made from Napa Valley grapes has the most complexity, with layers of ripe dark fruit flavors intertwined with alluring spice.  Reasonably muscular with firm tannins and tightly wound at this stage, it would benefit from a few years of cellaring.  Even now, it shows the grandeur for which Napa Valley Cabernet is rightly known.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2013

Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($34): Wines like this one are responsible for Napa Valley’s reputation as a source for excellent Cabernet Sauvignon.  Packed with black fruit flavors, it’s approachable now because its finely polished tannins lend structure without being intrusive.  In addition to the clear fruit flavors, it delivers an alluring earthy component and a gentle roasted quality.  A ‘big’ wine, to be sure, it has lovely balance and evolves in the glass.  A perfect steakhouse wine. 91 Michael Apstein Feb 17, 2009

Shafer, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2004 ($45): There’s no doubt about the origin of this wine.  Ripe succulent fruit flavors scream California.  But Shafer shows again that they can produce balanced wines with finesse despite pushing 15% alcohol.  This opulent, lush wine is remarkably supple and easy to enjoy now-but be sure you match it with beef or lamb. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006

Shafer, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($55): Although Michael Franz, my colleague here at WRO, laments the price of this wine in his review of it, I subscribe to the free market philosophy when it comes to pricing wine.  If it’s priced too high, it won’t sell.  If it sells quickly, maybe the price was too low.   Can you find equally enjoyable wines for less money?  Sure, but you can also find plenty of wines, including other Napa Valley Cabernets, that deliver a lot less for twice the price.  Now I will step off my soapbox to say that this is a classic Napa Valley Cabernet, not a Bordeaux wannabe.  Powered by lush fruit flavors and some alluring spice, it manages balance with fine ripe tannins.  It’s remarkably elegant for a wine of this size. 91 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007

Shafer Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Syrah “Relentless” 2004 ($65): Doug Shafer, who has enormous respect for their long time winemaker, Elias Fernandez, says they named this wine to honor Fernandez’s relentless pursuit of quality.  It is also an apt description of the attack of flavor–spice, chocolate and smoke–on the palate.  A field blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Petite Syrah–the varieties are harvested together from the same vineyard and vinified together–it is a massive wine that manages to maintain elegance and polish despite 15% alcohol.  It’s a perfect match for winter fare of stews, braised meats or other hearty dishes. 91 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

St. Supery, Napa Valley (California) “Elu” 2002 ($69): A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, St Supéry’s Élu is a polished wine with great length.  The engaging tobacco aromas suggest complexity, which is exactly what follows.  Layers of earthy smoky flavors complement the ripe black-fruit character.  Supple, silky tannins make it easy to pop the cork now. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 28, 2006

Aurielle, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($90): This, the inaugural release, embodies the big, bold style of Napa Valley Cabernet which values power over elegance.  Weighing in at a stated 14.9% alcohol, gorgeous juicy black fruit flavors pour forth.  Born of mountain grown fruit–half from Howell Mountain and half from Mt. Veeder–the finely polished tannins are all the more remarkable. Despite its size, its suaveness makes it a fine choice with flame charred steak. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2009

Boyanci, Napa Valley (California) Red Wine 2007 ($130):  Boyanci is a newcomer in the Napa Valley sweepstakes of rich–some would say–overdone Bordeaux-like blends.  The 2007, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Syrah (9%), Merlot (6%), Cabernet France (6%) and Petit Verdot, is their second vintage.  There’s lots of everything–ripe dark fruit, oak and alcohol (14.9% according to the label).  Despite its enormous size, it is incredibly polished and supple.  This glossy overstuffed wine will appeal to those who are looking for sheer power.  One of the principals, Kevin Boyer, was the sommelier and then wine buyer for a chain of steakhouses.  This is a steakhouse kind of wine. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 8, 2011

Burgess Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2003 ($22): What a delight it is to find a Merlot with character priced below $40 a bottle.  Its earthy flavors blend easily with the ripe berry character and chocolate nuances. The overall impression is one of succulence and ripeness, but there are sufficient supporting tannins that keep it balanced. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2006

Chappellet, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2005 ($32):

This saturated, powerful Merlot focuses on black–rather than the red–fruit flavors.  Smoky, toasty and gamey notes emerge from the dense fruit and add a needed exotic element.  Despite almost 15% alcohol, it is balanced and not over the top.

90 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2005 ($25): Polished and easy to drink, but not a simple wine, this mid-weight Merlot is easy to recommend.  The fruit notes tend toward juicy black cherry.  It has the subtle, but requisite, amount of leafiness or vaguely gamey character–that should be the hallmark of Merlot–and that prevents the fruit flavors from becoming jammy and the wine simple.   Supple tannins and bright acidity will keep it interesting throughout the meal. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 3, 2008

Clos Pegase, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($48):

The hefty bottle predicts the size of this wine.  For all its size, this big, brooding, black-fruited wine is beautifully polished and supple, which makes it immediately accessible and enjoyable.  At just under 15 percent stated alcohol, it is powerful and dense, well suited to accompany a grilled steak.

90 Michael Apstein May 24, 2011

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) “Paraduxx” 2003 ($45): I have always been charmed by Duckhorn’s unique blend of Zinfandel–about 2/3rd–and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Duckhorn’s blend allows the briary spicy flavors of Zinfandel to come through while the Cabernet lends support.  The tannins and firmness of Cabernet balance the flamboyance of Zinfandel and prevent the wine from being ‘over the top.’ 90 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2007

Eponymous, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($58): Robert Pepi has been a fixture in Napa Valley for decades, making wine under his own label until 1994 when his winer–name and all–was sold to Kendall-Jackson, which now bottles some wines under the Robert Pepi name.  Pepi now focuses on making a Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine, Eponymous, from a vineyard on the eastern side of the valley above the Silverado trail.  Pepi does not own the vineyard, but works closely with the owner and the vineyard manager to get the kind of fruit he wants.  I’ve liked every vintage of Eponymous because of its balance of refinement and power.  The 2003 fits the mold, perhaps with just a little less refinement and complexity than usual.  Nonetheless, it’s still a stunning example of Napa Valley Cabernet. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007

Flora Springs, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($30): Flora Springs makes an unabashedly big style of Cabernet. That said, their 2003 Napa-full of ripe cassis-like flavors-has considerable complexity. It favors power over elegance, but its supple, fine tannins and lovely balance come together for a polished wine that is lovely to drink now, especially with a steak. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Flora Springs, Napa Valley (California) “Trilogy” 2005 ($65): Trilogy, Flora Springs’ Bordeaux blend originally made from three grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot (and hence the name), also has the other so-called Bordeaux varieties, Petit Verdot and Malbec, in some vintages.  In the Flora Springs style, this is a big and ripe wine, but not over done.  The tannins are fine and well-integrated and support the layers of succulent black fruit mixed with flavors of exotic spice.  It’s still a young wine that will benefit from another year or two in the cellar to allow the flavors to come together and evolve. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008

Merryvale, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($50): This blend of Cabernet from Carneros, Yountville, and St. Helena spends 18 months in French oak barrels, one-third of which are new, which helps explain why the creamy, seductive oak flavors are quite prominent at this stage.  Plenty of dark cassis-like fruit is present and will undoubtedly become better integrated with the oak over the next year or two.  The tannins are supple and not intrusive.  With time in the glass, smoky nuances, other black fruit flavors and gaminess emerge, suggesting this wine will be more enjoyable after a few years of bottle aging. 90 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

Napanook, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($45): Producing a ‘second wine’ from younger vines is a tradition in Bordeaux that Christian Moueix, manager of Château Pétrus, has transported to his Dominus estate in Napa Valley in the form of Napanook.  Second wines serve a dual purpose.  They enhance the flagship or ‘first’ wine of the estate because the winemaker has an outlet for less desirable batches and is not forced to include them in the final blend.  Second wines offer a great opportunity for the consumer to sample the talents of a grand estate–at a far lower price than the first wine–because they are ready to drink much sooner.  You’d be hard pressed to know Napanook is a second wine unless you tasted it side by side with the stellar 2005 Dominus.  There’s plenty of power–almost a tarry minerality–that enhances the succulent black fruit flavors.  It’s overt, but not over the edge, and supple tannins make it approachable now. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

Pine Ridge Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot “Crimson Creek” 2003 ($27): Unlike Pine Ridge’s lineup of Cabernet Sauvignons, which come from single areas with Napa Valley, this, their only Merlot, comes from a blend of wines made from grapes grown in their vineyards in Carneros, Rutherford, Oakville and Stags Leap District.  A small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon adds attractive firmness to the succulent, bright, cherry-like flavors imparted by Merlot.  Not an aperitif-type Merlot, this is a serious wine worthy of a serious meal. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007

Rutherford Ranch, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($18): A multitude of black fruit flavors mingle with a smoky, leathery element in this beautifully balanced wine.  Not over wrought nor over done, a pleasing 13.5% alcohol adds to the seduction.  They also make a Reserve bottling, which is considerably more powerful, but my vote goes to this regular bottling for its elegance and finesse. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 30, 2007

Trefethen Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 1992 ($50): Still fresh, there’s less development of secondary flavors than expected for a 15 year-old Cabernet, but the tannins are silky smooth.    Trefethen’s signature finesse complements the bright fruit flavors. No longer available at retail, so the listed price is approximate. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2003 ($38): Incredible silkiness, ripe plumy fruit and more complexity than is found in many Merlots makes this an appealing wine.  There’s not a rough edge to this supple, well-balanced, mid-weight wine. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 13, 2007

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2009 ($35): By way of full disclosure, I’m not a fan of Zinfandel, especially those that weigh in over 15% stated alcohol, as does this one (15.3%). But year after year, Grgich intertwines power and grace — words not usually in the same sentence when describing Zinfandel — in this varietal. Although bigger and bolder than the terrific 2007, it still conveys layers of flavor — briary fruit, spice and even hints of chocolate. Try it with hearty wintery fare.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013

Louis Martini, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($24): The Martini label remains a reliable source of appealing California Cabernet.  Loaded with plenty of ripe black fruit balanced by uplifting acidity in the finish, it is classic Napa Valley Cabernet. The fine tannins add necessary structure without astringency, so its easy to enjoy now. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006

Merryvale, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2005 ($35): A blend of Merlot grown in the cooler areas of Napa–Carneros and Oak Knoll–Merryvale’s bottling still falls into the powerhouse school of Merlot.  The flavors–plum and other black fruits interwoven with spice–spread out over your palate.  Its complexity is most evident in the finish.  Supple tannins allow enjoyment now, but I suspect additional flavors will emerge over the next couple of years. 89 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

Merryvale, Napa Valley (California) “Starmont” Red Wine 2006 ($27): Merryvale is to be congratulated for producing such a large quantity of this high quality wine, their ‘entry-level’ or ‘non-reserve.’  This blend of most (77%) Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (16%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot, is balanced and succulent with dark black fruit flavors, a hint of earthy minerality, good acidity and polished tannins.  It shows why Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has such a good reputation–and you don’t need to charge triple digits for it.  Drink now or over the next couple of years with a steak. 89 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009

Mount St. Helena Brand, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($25): With their Mount St. Helena Brand, the Davies/Gamble partnership shows it can make superior wine by blending.  Most of the grapes come from Oakville, but fruit from other parts of Napa are included to make this a remarkably sophisticated, harmonious wine.  A little Merlot and Cabernet Franc round out this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend to produce a more forward wine than their Family Home Cabernet Sauvignon.  Considering the prices being asked for Napa Valley Cabernet these days, it’s a good buy. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007

Rutherford Ranch, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($18): Long and harmonious, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (88%), Merlot (9%) and a little Syrah and Petit Syrah, is easy to love.  Fruit forward–but not a fruit bomb—the wine features a dollop of gamey nuance that enhances its mixture of red and black fruit flavors.  Polished tannins make it easy to drink now. Not flamboyant, it’s a reminder of how lovely Napa Valley Cabernets are, especially when priced like this one. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($46): Made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (93%), Merlot (3%) and equal parts of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this fine Cabernet delivers a healthy dose of earthy minerality to complement its dark black-fruit component.  Winemaker Jonathan Emmerich has skillfully combined their estate grown and purchased fruit to fashion a moderately intense—thankfully not a “killer Cabernet”—balanced wine with fine tannins.  Enjoyable now, additional nuances are likely to emerge over the next year or two. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 6, 2010

Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sangiovese 2006 ($28): Sangiovese must be a difficult grape to grow outside of Italy because it has not established a firm footing and widespread reputation for great wine outside of that country.  With that background, Silverado’s rendition is all the more impressive.  A touch–6%–of Cabernet Sauvignon adds structure without dominating Sangiovese’s cherry-like signature.  The elegant fruit flavors and earthy notes shine because they are not hidden by the influence of new oak, since the winemaker opted to age the wine mostly in older oak barrels. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009

Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2004 ($32): This is a rich blend of Merlot (89%) and Cabernet Sauvignon in which the firm edge of the Cabernet complements and supports the plushness of Merlot.  Neither one dominates.  There’s plenty of alluring ripe–almost sweet–fruit, but nuances of chocolate peek through and it does not come across as overripe or jammy.  Eighteen months aging in small oak barrels has softened the wine and added a glossy patina. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2006 ($26):  Merlot continues to take such a bashing it’s important to remember it does–as this wine shows–make wine with complexity.  A blend of Merlot (77%), Cabernet Sauvignon (16%) and Cabernet Franc, it has a wonderfully herbal–almost minty–nose that suggests layers of flavor will follow.  And they do.  A mix of red and black fruit is intertwined with leafy notes and spice.  Firm tannins lend support.  It’s definitely not a “I’ll-have-a-glass-of-Merlot before dinner type of wine.”  Think steak instead. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2009

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2006 ($35): One of the reasons I selected Grgich Hills as my 2008 ‘Winery of the Year’ was because it consistently makes a stylish–as opposed to ‘killer’ or ‘monster’–Zinfandel.  Their 2006 highlights the attractive berry-like spice of the varietal without assaulting the palate with jammy flavors and alcohol.  Still rough and tumble–befitting a Zinfandel–it has a charming briary character. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2009

Hess, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Allomi Vineyard 2005 ($25): This straightforward Cabernet delivers deep, dark blackberry-like flavors.  Its juicy black fruit flavors and suaveness will appeal to those looking for an upfront, intense wine as opposed to one with subtlety. 88 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008

Summers, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Adriana’s Cuvee” 2005 ($25): This blend of Cabernet from three vineyards in northern Napa Valley, including Summers’ own Adriana’s vineyard, produced a solid wine.  Very ripe, but not over-the-top, black cherry flavors dominate, but hints of other black fruits and herbs emerge.  Smooth supple tannins make it a seductive–and nicely priced–Napa Cab. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2008

Trefethen Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 1990 ($50): Lovely maturity and development of secondary flavors are apparent, but it retains freshness and doesn’t taste 17 years old. Janet notes that the 1990 vintage included fruit from phylloxera infested vines, which might explain a slight greenness in the wine, which dissipated with time in the glass. No longer available, so the listed price is approximate. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Burgess, Napa Valley (California) Syrah 2004 ($22): A powerhouse of a wine, this Syrah has a touch (5 percent) of Mourvedre in the blend.  The deep dark fruit flavors and spicy notes reflect the origin of the grapes–a vineyard on Howell Mountain.  Although the wine emphasizes power over elegance, it is not ‘over the top’ and would be a fine complement for steaks or other meats on the grill. 87 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

Orin Swift Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Palermo” 2010 ($32): This massive Cabernet delivers just what you’d expect with its 15.5% stated alcohol. Ripe, almost candied, black fruit dominates the palate. Slight chocolate hints peek through the heat in the finish. Those who appreciate big, brooding wines will embrace it.
87 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013

Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($22): Those who loved Mondavi’s Cabernets in the past because of their finesse will be disappointed with the 2005. But those who complained that they lacked oomph will be pleased.  This is a supercharged wine with upfront ripeness and supple tannins.  The lush fruit flavors and 15% alcohol convey a sense of sweetness despite the lack of residual sugar.  Plush and smooth, it just lacks the subtlety and complexity of previous vintages. 87 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($45): This heavyweight Cabernet blend (8% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc round out the blend) is deceptive at this stage.  A gorgeous nose of fruit, herbs and smoke predicts complex flavors, which unfortunately have yet to show themselves.  Very ripe, black currant fruit flavors dominate until the finish when the heat from alcohol becomes apparent.  Soft tannins suggest early drinking, but I’d give it another year in the bottle in the hopes that the complexity suggested by the nose becomes apparent. 84 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008

Bennett Lane, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($55): Dazzling the palate, dense black fruit flavors buttressed by supple ripe tannins are the hallmark of this big, bold — 14.5% alcohol — Cabernet.  It will appeal to those who prefer power to finesse in their wines. Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2007

Clos du Bois, North Coast (California) Merlot 2004 ($18): There’s an engaging combination of earthiness–characteristic of Merlot–and ripe fruit that makes this easy to like.  The tannins are supple, yet lend enough support so it holds up with a meal. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008

Gallo of Sonoma, Northern Sonoma (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Estate” 2003 ($80): I have always said that, if Gallo. with its vast resources, can’t make superb wine, no one can.  Well, year in and year out, they do.  Their 2003 Estate Cabernet, their flagship red wine and a blend of about 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, is a lush and polished wine.  This stylish bottling delivers ripe — but not overripe — dark and red fruit-like flavors buttressed by supple tannins and vibrant acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2008

Trefethen, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($50): An exceptional California Cabernet, Trefethen’s 2004 is a beautifully balanced package of red and black fruit flavors intermingled with nuances of cedar and cigar box.   Its complexity is astounding.  And even I, who rarely embrace 14-plus-percent alcohol wine — this one weighs in at 14.1 percent — find it harmonious and stylish. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Trefethen Vineyards, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001 ($80): Trefethen’s Reserve Cabernets are just better in every way than their regular bottling.  The 2001 has the same flavor profile — black fruit, minerals and olives surrounded by silky smooth tannins — but is just longer, more sophisticated and more polished.  Still available at the winery as a Library Selection, the additional bottle age has served this wine very well. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Trefethen Vineyards, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Halo” 2002 ($175): Fabulous aromas of exotic spice and bay leaves emerge from the glass followed by concentrated bold flavors of dark fruit, minerals and an intriguing earthiness.  Young and powerful at this stage, the enticing nose and finish suggest it will follow in the footsteps of the 1997 and develop beautifully.  If you can’t wait and plan to drink it now, I suggest you decant it several hours before serving. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Trefethen Vineyards, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($50): Flavors of succulent black fruit, minerality and a hint of black olives all come through in this glossy wine. Supple tannins lend support. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Trefethen Vineyards, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Merlot 2004 ($35): More powerful than usual, Trefethen’s 2004 Merlot reflects the warmth of the growing season.  Still, it retains a graceful balance of earthy — almost funky — flavors intertwined with red fruit, cinnamon and spice. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Far Niente, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($125): Some of high-profile, big ticket Cabernets don’t really deliver the goods, but this one is certainly not among them.  It packs all the power that one should expect in this price category, and yet it is also uncommonly refined.  The color is quite dark, and the wine is very rich and deeply flavored, yet what really sets it apart is its balance and integration as well as supremely classy accent notes of pencil lead, minerals, and woodsmoke, which are truly wonderful with the solid core of dark berry fruit.  The finish is long and symmetrical, and the structural balance of the wine is every bit as sound as its flavor balance. 94 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2009

PlumpJack, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon McWilliam Oakville Vineyard 2010 ($98): This big and bold (15% stated alcohol) Cabernet is terrific, reflecting its origins, but needs time to settle down and unwind. It’s a bit like an undeveloped, but talented, young athlete. The focus is on powerful black fruit flavors — plums and black currants — but there’s far more going on here, with hints of exotic spice. One can see the wine’s potential. The tannins are plenty polished and appropriate for the wine’s size. At this stage, it’s just tightly wound and would benefit from a few years in the cellar. 93 Michael Apstein May 7, 2013

Pine Ridge, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($75): Pine Ridge produces a range of wines from the various AVAs within Napa, each of which shows the distinctiveness of the region where the grapes are grown.  This Oakville Cabernet, a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot (with a touch of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), is ripe and juicy with herbal–minty–nuances.  Although the wine spent 16 months aging in French oak barrels, the oak flavors are well integrated and unobtrusive.  The polished tannins complement the black currant richness. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2008

Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($45):  I have always been a big fan of Mondavi’s Cabernets.  Their grace, complexity and restrained power convinced me that Napa Valley could produce Cabernets that rival wines from anywhere.  Sadly, to my mind, their recent renditions have veered from that style to one that has embraced the powerhouse Napa Cabernet mold.  Their 2010 Oakville bottling, a bruising wine filled with dense black fruit flavors, is all muscle.  Its 15%-stated alcohol is apparent in the finish as a blast of heat.  Mind you, it will fit right in a noisy steakhouse with robust slabs of chargrilled beef.  But I hope they turn down the volume in the future so you can hear the notes that I know are there. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 3, 2013

Robert Mondavi, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($35): Very different from Mondavi Cabernets of the past, this slightly overripe, fruit-driven wine is juicy and succulent, but fails to deliver the complexity of Mondavi’s past wines or the great Napa Valley Cabernets.  Polished tannins allow you to drink it now, but I wish they would take their hand off the throttle and allow something other than fruit flavors come through. 85 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2008

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles (California) “Esprit de Beaucastel” 2008 ($50):  Tablas Creek, a joint venture between the Perrin family, owners of the acclaimed Châteauneuf du Pape and the Hass family, owners of Vineyard Brands, Beaucastel’s American importer, was founded in 1985, which means the vines now have reasonable age.  As the name implies, it’s a Châteauneuf-style blend, heavy on Mourvèdre (38%), similar to Beaucastel.  Grenache (30%), Syrah (26%) and Counoise round out the blend.  Their 2008 could be their best ever, perhaps because the vines are starting to reach maturity.  Ripe and concentrated with notes of wild strawberries, it is beautifully balanced, not overdone.  Suave tannins support the combination of red and black fruit flavors.  Clean and bright, it is not a Châteauneuf du Pape, but rather a marvelous example of how well those varieties can do in California.  A substantive wine, pair it with robust fare. 93 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011

J. Lohr, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Hilltop” 2008 ($35):  Paso, as it’s commonly called, is getting recognition for its sumptuous Cabernets.  What’s particularly notable about this one, however, is its polish and finesse.  There are certainly plenty of black succulent fruit flavors.  But the intrigue and complexity comes from exotic, almost licorice-like spice that I suspect is a result of a touch (7%) of Malblec and Petite Sirah in the blend.  Long and refined, it carries its 14.5% alcohol effortlessly.  Even I, who regularly complains about high alcohol wines, concede that this one is beautifully balanced and shows you can’t judge a wine solely by its numbers. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles (California) Syrah 2006 ($35):

Perhaps because the estate’s vines are now entering a more mature phase, the wines from Tablas Creek seem to be taking a step up from being consistently good to being consistently exemplary in the ranks of California producers working with Rhône varieties.  This bottling shows dark, dense fruit that offers very expressive aromas and flavors of black raspberries and plums, along with subtle undertones of roasted meat, spices, black pepper and toast.  Ripe and rich but not chunky or obvious, it is braced by soft tannins and a judiciously-applied touch of oak in the finish.

92 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles (California) Mourvèdre 2007 ($35):  Tablas Creek, as most know by now, is the joint venture between the Perrin family, owners of Chateau Beaucastel in Châteauneuf du Pape and Robert Hass, their American importer.  Tablas Creek makes wines exclusively from Rhône/Mediterranean grapes, such as this marvelous Mourvèdre.  Filled with succulent dark fruit-like flavors, it has the expected leathery notes characteristic of that variety.  Nicely balanced–not over the top–with well-integrated tannins, it’s easy to savor now with wintertime fare. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2010

Estancia, Paso Robles (California) Meritage 2007 ($35):  This, Estancia’s 20th anniversary bottling, is a blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (61%) with substantial amounts of Merlot (27%) and Petit Verdot.  Succulent and ripe, it is almost chewy, with sweet tannins and a fine texture.  The sweet oak robe enhances its seductiveness without overwhelming.  Drink it with a steak. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 29, 2011

Estancia, Paso Robles (California) Zinfandel 2009 ($12):  With their 15%+ stated alcohols, I find most current Zinfandels far too flamboyant and over-the-top.  So imagine my pleasant surprise when I tasted this one.  With its combination of red and black fruit flavors, spice and briary notes, it reminded me of those distinctive and engaging Zinfandels of the past.  It’s an ideal choice for barbeque, burgers or pizza.  Thank you, Estancia. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 7, 2012

Wild Horse, Paso Robles (California) Merlot 2005 ($20): This Merlot has real varietal character–a touch of leafy funkiness–not just sweet fruit flavors.  The tannins are supple and mild, but provide needed structure.  Red cherry acidity in the finish keeps it lively.  Not overdone, it has good weight. 88 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

Clayhouse Vineyard, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($15): Herbal nuances play a supporting, but critical role, as a foil for the ripe dark cassis-laden fruit flavors in this delightful Cabernet. Not overdone, suave tannins enrobe the package, making it easy to enjoy now. Lip smacking acidity keeps it fresh–and you coming back for more–throughout a meal. It’s a great buy.
87 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2013

Solaire, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($16): Although Paso Robles has a reputation for intense Rhône-style wines, this mid-weight Cabernet shows the area produces others styles as well.  Bottled under the Robert Mondavi name, Solaire is a juicy combination of red and black fruits.  Not overdone, this has mellow tannins and balanced acidity that make it perfect for immediate consumption. 87 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

Clayhouse Estate, Paso Robles (California) “Estate Cuvée” 2005 ($29): The addition of Petite Syrah (9%) adds even more power and concentration to this intense Rhône-like blend of Syrah (54%) and Grenache (37%).  The robust style of ripe black fruit with hints of tar and moderate tannins will appeal to those who favor power and intensity over finesse.  The 14.9% stated alcohol is apparent as heat in the finish. 84 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008

Clayhouse Estate, Paso Robles (California) “Hillside Cuvee” 2005 ($28): Don’t let the blend of Bordeaux varieties–Petit Verdot (41%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Malbec–deceive you into thinking you might be drinking a Bordeaux-like wine. This thick and almost chewy wine has none of the sophistication or complexity usually associated with a Bordeaux blend, which is not surprising given the dominance of Petit Verdot and Malbec.  What is does have is power, intensity, and a touch of heat in the finish from its 14.5%-plus alcohol.  The tannins are remarkably smooth and polished, which means if you like brawny wines, you can drink it without further aging. 84 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008

Sly Dog Cellars, Red Hills (Lake County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 92” 2005 ($15): Normally, the cuter the name, the less interesting the wine, which is why I approached this one with skepticism.  But any prejudice evaporated with one whiff.  From the nose–gamey elements and black fruit–it was immediately apparent that this was not a one-dimensional fruit bomb.  The wine delivers what I call “not just fruit” flavors–although there’s no shortage of that–but also exotic herbal and earthy notes that are seamlessly intertwined.  Mild tannins lend support without being astringent. A balanced and sophisticated wine and a bargain to boot. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2009

Cakebread Cellars, Red Hills (Lake County, California) Zinfandel 2010 ($30): Ripe red and black fruit flavors bombard the palate without assaulting it because the tannins are unobtrusive. A lovely briary sensation adds balance.  This Zinfandel is a big wine, but not a monster, despite its 15.1% stated alcohol.  It’s even more engaging chilled, which makes it an ideal choice for barbeque this summer.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2013

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard 2008 ($57):  I am an unabashed fan of Merry Edwards’ range of Pinot Noir because she makes intense, but not overblown, wines.  They’re not Burgundy–nor should they be. They are an extraordinary expression of Pinot Noir in California.  Often California Pinot Noir loses the complexity and elusive delicacy the grape can offer and should be renamed Pinot Syrah.  But Edwards manages the best of both.  Her Pinot Noir from the Coopersmith Vineyard has plenty of concentration and ripe fruit, but underneath lies an attractive herbal-earthy quality.  Supportive tannins and bright acidity prevent it from being sweet or sappy.  New flavors emerge with each sip.  Its complexity persisted throughout its incredible length.  The next time you’re splurging, go for it. 96 Michael Apstein Apr 19, 2011

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Angel Wing” 2006 ($90): Merry Edwards is one of California’s stellar Pinot Noir producers.  This bottling, a selection from her Meredith Estate Vineyard, honors her, son who died prematurely at the age of 21.  One whiff tells you this will be a great wine.  Satiny smooth, it delivers an alluring combination of ripe black fruit and herbal savory notes.  It walks the fine line of being intense and concentrated without being flamboyant or overdone.  With the complexity and nuances of a great wine, it’s a joy to come back to sip after sip. What a tribute! 96 Michael Apstein Sep 1, 2009

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2009 ($60):  Named after her husband, Ken Coopersmith, this Pinot Noir has a family resemblance to the Merry Edwards’s Meredith Estate bottling, showing richness and power without being over the edge.  Despite its reliance on younger vines, it’s even more complex at this stage with leafy and spicy elements supporting deep black fruit flavors. Additional mouth-filling flavors emerge with each sip.  But the balance and liveliness is what’s so remarkable about this powerful Pinot Noir.  Similar to the Meredith Estate (also reviewed this week), it too, was better on the third night.  The 2009 Coopersmith is another excellent choice for the cellar.  If forced to drink it now, decant it several hours in advance. 96 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2012

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2007 ($60):  This single vineyard bottling has more of everything compared to Merry Edwards’ regular Russian River Valley bottling (previously reviewed), but maintains the wonderful balance her wines are known for.  Silky tannins and bright acidity hold it together.  Sitting in the glass, the flavors blossom and the wine delivers extraordinary richness and length without a trace of heaviness. This is a great Pinot Noir from one of California’s best Pinot Noir producers. 96 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2009

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2006 ($54): Merry Edwards’ 2006 Pinot Noirs rank with the best lineup of varietal from California that I have tasted.  That said, this one from the recently purchased Flax Vineyard is simply stunning and could be the best of the lot.  There is a full blown, direct delivery of ripe black fruit flavors.  However, that alone does not explain its appeal.  With time in the glass, earthy and leafy notes appear, making this a beguiling Pinot Noir.  Superb selection of grapes and careful winemaking must explain the gorgeous, silky tannins that lend support. Lovely to drink now, exquisite balance suggests it will evolve to deliver even more enjoyment. 96 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2008 ($54):  “Gorgeous” and “succulent” are two words that pop to mind after tasting this wine.  This wine continues the Merry Edwards string of sensational Pinot Noirs.  Packed with flavor, but not heavy or overdone despite a stated 14.4% alcohol, it’s savory, spicy and fruity, seemingly all at once.  Plush tannins add a luxurious elegance and suaveness.  Although it has some passing similarities to a Burgundy from the Côte de Nuits, this is not a Burgundy wannabe, but rather a great expression of Pinot Noir in California. 96 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2011

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard 2010 ($60): Explosive. But not flamboyant or bombastic. This current release from Merry Edwards, Coopersmith, from a vineyard on Laguna Ridge just west of Sebastopol that she and her husband, Ken Coopersmith, own, captures the essence of the grape–its ability to transmit flavor without weight. Perhaps the most complete of this trio at this stage, it has a beautiful marriage of minerality and subtle dark fruit flavors. Though striking, nothing is obvious, except its overall stature. It forces you to concentrate on the flavors and watch how they emerge. Its harmony is captivating. Fans of Pinot Noir should not miss this one.
96 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2013

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2010 ($62): Merry Edwards has done it again with a tremendous trio of 2010 Russian River Pinot Noirs. Despite their differences they all have her signature of power and grace. Youthful, but not astringent, tannins are apparent in the Olivet Lane bottling. A splendid array of earth notes and black fruit come through in waves. It’s smoky and succulent. More intense, than big, it is not heavy or ponderous. This luxurious wine grows and blossoms in the glass. And best of all, the finish has attractive bitter notes, not the sweetness often marring California Pinot Noir. I’d cellar this one for a few years to allow all its potential to show.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2013

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2008 ($54):  One of the things I love about Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noirs is that they are all different, reflecting where the grapes grew.  Toby and Phil Flax planted this vineyard in 2002 and Edwards has been making a single vineyard Pinot Noir from their grapes since 2005.  It’s a darker, more brooding—less floral—Pinot Noir rich with black fruit and mineral elements.  Earthy notes mingle beautifully with the dark black cherry-like nuances.  It’s still tightly wound, but its grandeur is apparent in its persistence and precise finish.  It’s a powerful argument that young vines can, indeed, produce terrific wines. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Coopersmith” 2005 ($54): Named for Merry’s husband, Ken Coopersmith, this is worth the search for a few of the only 4,200 bottles produced.  The luxurious wine is a seamless combination of black fruit flavors, herbal notes and gamey nuances that delight the palate.  The oak aging is apparent as a glossy texture, but you feel–rather than taste–its presence.  The paradox is the incredible depth of flavor without weight. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2009 ($57):  Merry Edwards is a genius with Pinot Noir.  This one, from her Meredith Estate, has a fabulous combination of richness and power without being over the top or falling into the Pinot-Syrah trap.  Herbal and earthy notes accompany a cornucopia of red fruit flavors.  It’s not Burgundy (nor should it be), but a terrific expression of Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley.  Tasted over several nights, it was even better the third night, which suggests cellaring this wine will bring great rewards. 95 Michael Apstein Mar 6, 2012

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2010 ($57): Merry Edwards has scored the vinous equivalent of a hat trick with this trio of 2010 Pinot Noirs. This one, from the Meredith Estate, exemplifies her style of Pinot Noir, bold yet refined. It seems paradoxical, but she pulls it off consistently. The Meredith Estate is less immediately explosive and accessible compared to the one from the Flax vineyard. Its complexity reveals itself over time as the tannins give way to a plethora of dark fruit and engaging earthiness. A dark minerality underlies and supports the wine. I would cellar this one for several years at least to let it soften. Though those who like more oomph with their Pinot Noir will have no trouble enjoying it now.
95 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2010 ($57): Similar to her superb Pinot Noir from Meredith Estate, this one from Klopp Ranch vineyard is tightly wound and less immediately expressive.  Dark dense black fruit-like flavors underpinned by an earthy minerality emerge.  A lovely subtle bitterness in the exceptionally long finish actually reinforces the fruit flavors.  Edwards manages to capture the intensity of Pinot Noir without making a heavy wine.  The wine grows in the glass and reminds us not to judge wines too quickly when we taste, but to drink them with a meal over hours to allow them to unravel.  This is another wine best cellared for several years.
95 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2010 ($54): The most open and accessible of this trio of 2010 Pinot Noir from Merry Edwards, the one from Flax Vineyard is dark and juicy.  There’s no question it’s a big style of Pinot Noir, yet it’s refined and not overdone.  Waves of flavor — fruit, earth and herbs — bombard the palate without ever assaulting it.  Lovely savory notes and a whiff of bitterness in the finish keep this impressive wine balanced.  It would be a good match for grilled duck breast or even a roasted chicken with wild mushroom sauce now.
95 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013

Rodney Strong, Russian River Valley (California) Pinot Noir Jane’s Vineyard Reserve 2004 ($40):

Although this is not their current release–they are on to the 2005–the 2004 Jane’s Vineyard Pinot Noir is still widely available at the retail level and on restaurant wine lists.  It should not be missed.  Black and red fruit flavors along with gamey and smoky elements explode from the glass.  Yet, despite the power, this is not a ‘Pinot Syrah’ style of Pinot Noir.  Rather it conveys the paradox of Pinot Noir–flavor without weight.  Polished fine tannins lend support and uplifting black cherry acidity keeps it fresh.

95 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Tobias Glen 2006 ($54): When some producers make a variety of single vineyard wines, it can be hard to tell one from the other because the winemaking style trumps the individuality of the site.  Not so with the Pinot Noirs from Merry Edwards in 2006.   This one, from the Tobias Glen vineyard, is a more muscular version than most of the other Edwards Pinots, without being over the top.  Its lush profile runs more to black rather than red fruit.  With air and time in the glass, the delightful leafy–woodsy–character of Pinot Noir comes through. The tannins are present, but finely polished and the acidity keeps it fresh and lively.   Beautifully balanced, enjoy it now with decanting and an hour or so of breathing, or keep it in the cellar for a few years. 94 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Freeman Vineyard & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch 2006 ($46): There’s noticeably more complexity in this single vineyard wine compared to Freeman’s regular Russian River Pinot Noir.  The charming cherry-like fruit flavors intermingle with a prominent–and seductive–spicy component, which Ken Freeman believes comes from the particular clone of Pinot Noir planted in the Keefer Ranch. Be it the clone or the particular site, this is quintessential Pinot Noir: intensity without weight. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 10, 2008

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2006 ($54): Even though I’ve said it before, it’s worth repeating: Merry Edwards’s 2006 single vineyard Pinot Noirs could be the best array of that varietal from California I’ve tasted.  This one, from their estate vineyard, has marvelous complexity like her other bottlings, yet is unique. It delivers ripe red and black fruit flavors offset by an attractive savory component of spicy and earthy notes.  The balance and interplay between the flavors holds your interest.  Tasted again a day later it was even better, suggesting that a few years of cellaring will amplify its complexity. 93 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2007 ($42):  Year in and year out, Merry Edwards makes fabulous Pinot Noir, whether it’s her single vineyard wines or one like this, a blend from seven different vineyards throughout the Russian River Valley.  With this wine, she manages to capture the ripe fruit flavors common to California Pinot Noir and elusive herbal earthy notes.  Autumnal leafy nuances and a floral component add depth and complexity but not weight.  Silky tannins impart a glossy texture and mean you can enjoy it without further aging–like tonight with a roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2009

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2005 ($60): Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir  2005 ($60): Intense without being heavy, this Olivet Lane bottling has the same gorgeous combination of earthiness and fruitiness that her Russian River bottling delivers.  Considerably more power, greater length and complexity justifies the higher price of this offering from the Olivet Lane vineyard. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2010 ($57): This silky Pinot Noir combines fruit and earth—sweet and savory notes. A touch lighter and showing more red than black fruit of the Merry Edwards Olivet Lane, the Georganne bottling has the hallmark layered complexity of her other Pinot Noirs. Mineral notes appear as it sits in the glass and the finish expands. This, like her other Pinot Noirs, are wines to savor with dinner, not just taste. It’s hard to resist.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2013

Lynmar Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Quail Hill Vineyard 2004 ($55): This is a classy California Pinot Noir because, while it has plenty of fruit, it’s not just fruit. It has layers of earthy, woodsy flavors and a long, elegant finish. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 26, 2006

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2006 ($60): With this bottling Merry Edwards shows that she can work her magic on grapes grown by someone else.  The Pellegrini family owns the Olivet Lane vineyard and has sold the grapes to Edwards for some time.  More layered than her regular Russian River Valley bottling, this wine’s focus tends toward the spicy savory elements rather than ripe cherry-like flavors.  The fine tannins lend support without being intrusive or dulling the overall lush texture.  The incredible finish makes you pause after each sip. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Klopp Ranch 2007 ($54):  Merry Edwards has worked with Klopp Ranch owner Ted Klopp since 1989, producing a Pinot Noir from a variety of clones that is rich with berry aromas and flavors.  This Klopp Ranch Pinot has the deepest color of the five tasted, with an inky core.  The aromatics are black cherry with traces of mineral, while the flavors are layered with spice, black tea and ripe berry.  Finished at 14.4% alcohol, this Pinot is intense and richly textured. 91 Michael Apstein Jul 13, 2010

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2008 ($42):  Ripe and concentrated, this Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley has an attractive interplay of black fruit notes, spice and savory nuances.  Although an intense wine, Merry Edwards’ signature balance and finesse still shows.  She manages to squeeze lots of flavor out of the grapes without making a wine that goes over the top.  More California Pinot Noir producers could follow her lead. 91 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2011

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2005 ($54): Merry and her husband, Ken, planted their Meredith Estate vineyard in 1998 and they still consider it their first child.  Immediately appealing flavors of fresh red fruits and toasty oak–perhaps a bit too oaky for some at this stage–pour from the glass.  With air, herbal and earthy elements emerge.  A powerful wine, it retains the elegance that is the Merry Edwards hallmark.  I would give it a few years for the oak to merge with the fruit and for the herbal notes to lend complexity. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2004 ($51):

Merry Edwards is one of the most consistent and talented Pinot Noir producers in California.  This full-bodied wine practically explodes with intense black fruit flavors and spice.  Although the oak influence is apparent now, there is plenty of underlying dark fruit which means it should all come together beautifully in another 6 to 12 months.  The flavors are so enticing and persistent, you barely notice the slight heat of the 14.4% alcohol in the finish.

91 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007

Sequana, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2009 ($38):  Sequana’s Russian River Valley rendition is riper with more emphasis on raspberry-like fruit flavors than the one from Santa Lucia Highlands. Savory elements complement the red fruit notes.  Despite the added power, it’s beautifully balanced with plenty of freshness and uplifting acidity.  The team at Sequana seems to be able to capture the unique “flavor without weight” character of Pinot Noir.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2011

Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (California) Pinot Noir 2009 ($30):  Seeing 14.5% alcohol on a Pinot Noir label would deter many consumers because the delicacy and expressiveness of that grape tends to be lost when it gets ripe enough to result in that level of alcohol.  But numbers alone don’t tell the whole story.  Sure, there’s plenty of ripe fruit speaking here, but there’s also a savory component of earthy mushroom-like nuances that keeps it all in balance.  Bright acidity adds freshness and sweet tannins allow for current drinking. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2011

Girard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2006 ($24): A welcome restraint and elegance is one of the many virtues of this balanced, classy California Chardonnay.  Another is the long and focused finish highlighted by fresh acidity.  It reminds you why Chardonnay is such a popular wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2008

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2005 ($39): Merry Edwards is one of California’s leading producers of Pinot Noir.  She demonstrates her talents every year with a variety of bottlings from different vineyards.  Unlike some wineries whose separate vineyard bottlings are more marketing than substance, Edwards’ reflect the unique character of the site.  This Russian River bottling conveys both nuances of raspberry flavors and hints of smoky earth that explains the popularity of Pinot Noir. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Ram’s Gate, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Bush Crispo Vineyards 2010 ($70): This bold Pinot Noir combines deep black fruits, spice–a little licorice even–with suave tannins. It’s a saturated wine with plenty of everything that’s bound to catch your attention. Those who favor muscular Pinot Noir will love it.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2013

Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2008 ($20):  It’s unusual to find such complexity in Pinot Noir at this price.  It delivers the pure cherry-like fruit flavors characteristic of Russian River Pinot Noir.  But in addition, there is a captivating and balancing savory component.  With a stated alcohol of 14.4%, it is a rather intense and concentrated Pinot Noir, but it is not overdone. Still, I can’t help thinking that this wine would deliver even more if it had less alcohol. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2010

Terlato Family Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2007 ($60): The Terlato family put Pinot Grigio on the US wine map when they–Paterno Imports–brought Santa Margherita Pinot
Grigio to our shores.  They have expanded into the winery business in California and have made a stunning Pinot Noir from vineyards they developed in the Russian River Valley.  Classic Pinot Noir, this mid-weight wine has flavor without weight.  Savory notes balance raspberry/strawberry-like flavors.  Some will fault it for lack of “power,” but its lacy elegance and delicacy combined with an almost magical combination of fruit, herb and earthy flavors is captivating. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 8, 2009

MacMurray Ranch, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2010 ($27): Bright red fruit-like flavors intermingle with herbal and spice notes in this mid-weight Pinot Noir. The emphasis remains on the fruit, but the non-fruit nuances are what add charm and complexity. Fine tannins lend support and bright acidity keeps it lively throughout the meal. This is a wine to drink, not just taste.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2013

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Tobias Glen 2005 ($51): This bottling, from purchased fruit, has the upfront cherry fruit flavors–with fewer earthy elements–characteristic of many California Pinot Noir.  The oak is beautifully integrated into this delicately styled wine and the tannins are supple and polished.  It delivers flavor without heaviness. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Thomas George Estates, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Estate Wine” 2009 ($40):  The father and son team of Thomas and Jeremy Baker run this new winery (formerly Davis Bynum Winery) in the heart of the Russian River Valley that specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  This Pinot Noir, a blend from three vineyards, focuses on ripe dark fruit flavors accented with spice and herbal notes.  Weighing in at 14.3% stated alcohol, it’s a muscular style of Pinot Noir best suited for hearty fare. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2011

Toad Hollow, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Goldie’s Vineyard 2009 ($17):  Do not be deceived by either the light color or the 14.5 percent-stated alcohol.  Pinot Noir frequently produces lightly colored wines that retain plenty of flavor, like this one.  And despite what might be an overdone fruit bomb based on the alcohol level along, there’s actually plenty of engaging earthiness to balance the delicate cherry-like fruitiness.  Overall, it’s a charming wine that will brighten your meal. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2012

Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Jane’s Vineyard 2011 ($35): Davis Bynum bottled the first single vineyard-designated Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley about 40 years ago.  Although he sold the winery to Tom Klein and the Klein family, who also owns Rodney Strong Vineyards, the vineyard-designated concept persists.  The 2011 Pinot Noir from Jane’s Vineyard, while focusing on bright ripe red fruit, still manages a yummy amalgam of fruit and herbs.  Engaging now, my experience with Bynum’s Pinot Noir tells me it will develop more complexity with another few years in the cellar.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013

En Route, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Les Pommiers” 2007 ($55): En Route, the latest project from the team that created three of Napa Valley’s stars—Far Niente, Nickel and Nickel and Dolce—is aptly named since it is “en route” to being a great Pinot Noir.  They purchased three vineyards—two in the very cool Green Valley AVA portion of Russian River Valley—because of their focus on estate wines, believing that the best wines come from their own, not purchased, grapes.  Although not at the quality level of their Napa Valley properties yet, this Pinot Noir, their first commercial vintage, is notable for its grace.  Ripe—but thankfully not overripe—raspberry-tinged red fruit flavors and spicy notes pour forth and are nicely balanced by a touch of oak and polished tannins.   This is a producer to watch! 88 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2009

Freeman Vineyard & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($41): This fruit forward–but not ‘Pinot Syrah’ style of–Pinot Noir sings bright cherry-like flavors.  With air and time in the glass, woodsy nuances emerge and add complexity. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 10, 2008

Freeman Vineyard & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($41): This fruit forward-but not ‘Pinot Syrah’ style of-Pinot Noir sings bright cherry-like flavors.  With air and time in the glass, woodsy nuances emerge and add complexity. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

Frei Brothers Reserve, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Syrah 2007 ($24):  This powerhouse Syrah delivers alluring, smoky, bacon-like nuances.  For all its power, it does have layered complexity in the finish and polished tannins that allow immediate enjoyment with hearty winter fare. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2010

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($42): Merry Edwards continues to make sensational Pinot Noir from fruit grown in a variety of vineyards, or ones from a single vineyard, such as her Olivet Lane Pinot Noir.  Even this lower level Pinot — lower level only when compared to her single vineyard bottlings — has the magical combination of savory and sweet elements.  Spice is intermingled gracefully with bright, sweet cherry-like fruit.  This mid-weight Pinot Noir is very satisfying and a good introduction to her style. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Patz & Hall, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chenoweth Ranch 2005 ($55): Patz & Hall clearly believe the fruit from this 7-acre vineyard located at the extreme western-coolest–end of the Russian River Valley is unique.  The vineyard name alone appears on the front label.  They relegate the varietal name to the ‘back’ label.  This is a surprisingly bold–but not overdone–style of Pinot Noir, especially considering it comes from such a cool region.  Not as hot as the 14.5% alcohol would suggest, there are layers of earthy flavors to complement the heavy dose of ripe, red fruit. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2008

Toad Hollow, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot Richard McDowell Vineyard 2009 ($13): This fine Merlot delivers more complexity than expected for the price. Mild suave tannins enrobe ripe sweet black cherry-like fruit. But there is a touch of that leafy, attractively funky aspect that characterizes Merlot. This easy to drink Merlot is not a cerebral wine, but it is perfectly satisfying and very nicely priced.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2013

MacMurray Ranch, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Winemaker’s Block Selection” 2010 ($60): This, the “Reserve” bottling of MacMurray Ranch’s Pinot Noir, screams with ripe bright forward cherry-like flavors. To its credit, for all its ripeness, the winemaking team has avoided transforming it into a super dark “Pinot Syrah” style of wine. At this stage, the nuances that Pinot Noir can deliver are hidden by sweet–almost candied–fruit flavors. Their regular bottling, reviewed previously, delivers far more complexity at this point–and at half the price. The Winemaker’s Block Selection shows that more is not always better.
87 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2013

Rodney Strong, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyards 2005 ($20): Fresh, bright, straightforward red fruit flavors surrounded by supple tannins make this a satisfying Pinot Noir at a good price. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007

Toad Hollow, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Goldie’s Vineyard 2011 ($20): This mid-weight Pinot Noir combines spice and red fruit-like flavors in a most enjoyable package.  Mild tannins allow it to be chilled, which makes it even more engaging and refreshing this summer.
87 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2013

Rubicon Estate, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) “Rubicon” 2008 ($200):  I tasted this sumptuous wine in a line-up of other Rutherford Cabernets, looking for that elusive “Rutherford dust.”  What I found in this wine, as well as its neighbors, was Rutherford suaveness or Rutherford silk, the ripeness of the 21st century obliterating any sense of dusty tannins of the past.  The heavy embossed bottle and the stated 14.8% alcohol made me want to dislike the wine, but that was impossible after tasting it.  It’s a gorgeous wine.  A Bordeaux blend with Cabernet Sauvignon predominating (87%), it is thick and rich but not overdone or overwrought.  Instead, it’s powerful and classy with black fruit flavors, of course, but more impressive are the complementary savory notes and a distinct dark minerality.  Extraordinary length allows additional flavors to explode on the palate.  Finely polished, it impossible to resist its allure and charm now, but its balance suggests it will evolve beautiful with a decade or two of bottle age.   I’ll let others decide whether it’s worth $200 a bottle.  But there’s no question that it shows the heights that Rutherford Cabernet can achieve. 98 Michael Apstein Feb 7, 2012

Rubicon Estate, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) “Rubicon” 2008 ($200):  I tasted this sumptuous wine in a line-up of other Rutherford Cabernets, looking for that elusive “Rutherford dust.”  What I found in this wine, as well as its neighbors, was Rutherford suaveness or Rutherford silk, the ripeness of the 21st century obliterating any sense of dusty tannins of the past.  The heavy embossed bottle and the stated 14.8% alcohol made me want to dislike the wine, but that was impossible after tasting it.  It’s a gorgeous wine.  A Bordeaux blend with Cabernet Sauvignon predominating (87%), it is thick and rich but not overdone or overwrought.  Instead, it’s powerful and classy with black fruit flavors, of course, but more impressive are the complementary savory notes and a distinct dark minerality.  Extraordinary length allows additional flavors to explode on the palate.  Finely polished, it impossible to resist its allure and charm now, but its balance suggests it will evolve beautiful with a decade or two of bottle age.   I’ll let others decide whether it’s worth $200 a bottle.  But there’s no question that it shows the heights that Rutherford Cabernet can achieve. 98 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2012

Quintessa, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) 2006 ($120):  Quintessa is Augustin Huneeus’s Napa Valley project.  The winery–like the wine–is a gem.  If you had only one word to describe the 2006 Quintessa, it would be classy.  Always a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend, the finished wine contains a small percentage of Merlot and even a little Carmenère, perhaps reflecting the Chilean origins of the owner.  The near magical combination of cassis-type fruit flavors and an earthy minerality wrapped with finely polished tannins defines its class.  Not a powerhouse type of wine, the flavors dance across the palate and change with each sip.  Certainly enjoyable now, its true complexity and grandeur will emerge after a decade of cellaring. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2011

Pine Ridge, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($48): Pine Ridge makes a series of wines labeled Cabernet Sauvignon (although they are typically a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot) from the various districts within the Napa Valley, including Rutherford, Stag’s Leap, and Oakville.  Tasting them side-by-side, they nicely demonstrate the differences between those areas.  The one from Rutherford always captures my attention for its refinement, elegance and complexity in the finish. Nuances of herbs, tobacco and spice supplement alluring ripe fruit both in the nose and on the palate.  It’s a wonderful example of how to combine intensity with grace.  And I don’t think it’s a coincidence that it has less than 14% alcohol. 94 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007

Sequoia Grove, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004 ($70): A brilliantly expressive wine, Sequoia Grove’s Reserve Cabernet shows why Napa Valley has a solid reputation for that grape.  Finely polished tannins support a glorious combination of black fruit flavors and herbal earthy notes.  Broad and rich, its glossy texture makes it a delight to drink.  ‘Reserve’ in this case means more intensity, but its suaveness is even more noteworthy than its power.  Only a touch of heat in the finish detracts from this overall impressive wine. 94 Michael Apstein Feb 24, 2009

Monticello Vineyards, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Tietjen Vineyard 2008 ($65):  The small, 7-acre, Tietjen Vineyard lies on the western side of Napa Valley at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains.  Planted in the 1980s, it is devoted exclusively to Cabernet Sauvignon. Monticello uses most of the grapes from this vineyard as part of the blend for their Corley Reserve and their other Cabernets, but fortunately, they bottle a small amount separately.  The 2008 is a stunning wine.  Powerful, yet suave, it’s richly textured with supple tannins and layered with dark fruit notes and earthy nuances.  It reveals itself slowly over time, but even the first sip is captivating. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012

Beaulieu Vineyard, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($32):  Beaulieu Vineyard has been one of Napa Valley’s and California’s iconic properties.  Many of BV’s wines from the second half of the 20th century–Cabernet Sauvignon and less well-known, but perhaps even more impressive, Pinot Noir–ranked among the country’s best.  For a variety of reasons, the winery seemed to lose its focus over the last 15 years.  But judging from this wine, BV is back on track.  BV produces several tiers of Cabernet based wines.  This one comes from the vineyards within the Rutherford AVA and shows why this area of Napa Valley is renowned for Cabernet Sauvignon.  Without being in your face, it has layers upon layers of black fruit, spice and herbal flavors.  It is classy with fine tannins and lovely length.   Perfect for current consumption, it delivers more enjoyment than many California Cabernets costing twice as much. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 4, 2011

Conn Creek, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Hozhoni Vineyard 2008 ($45):  Attractive herbal and earthy notes complement the black fruit flavors in this glossy wine.  In an age when robust fruit flavors are prized, it’s refreshing to see that Conn Creek’s Hozhoni Vineyard Cabernet has the elusive “not just fruit” quality that is the hallmark of distinctive wine.  The tannins, which provide needed structure, are polished and supple without a trace of astringency.  Although it weights in at a hefty 14.5%-stated alcohol, it is still nicely proportioned and balanced.  Given the price of top-notch Napa Cabs, this one is a bargain.  Enjoy tonight with a steak. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 7, 2012

Pine Ridge, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($35): A big powerful (14.5 percent alcohol) Napa Cabernet, Pine Ridge’s Rutherford bottling is loaded with black fruit balanced by ripe, supple tannins and good acidity. Despite its size and alcohol content, it has elegance and finesse. Bring on the steak! 90 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2006

Hitching Post, Santa Barbara County (California) Merlot Alisos Vineyard 2005 ($25): Despite Hitching Post’s focus on Pinot Noir, they produce this very serious–and appealing–Merlot.  Lovely aromatics are followed by savory notes, too often lacking in Merlot, which serve as an excellent counterpoint to the dominant ripe dark fruit flavors.  With supple tannins, this beautifully balanced mixture of black fruit, spice and earth is ready to drink now. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 2, 2008

Longoria, Santa Barbara County (California) Red Wine “Evidence” 2000 ($54): Still available in retail shops and via Longoria’s website, their Bordeaux blend is compelling evidence (no pun intended) that California wines develop complexity with age.  An unusual blend of Cabernet Franc (45%), Malbec (30%), Merlot (20%), and Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2000 Evidence conveys an attractive herbal or leafy character–Cabernet Franc and Merlot speaking–with sufficient power.  Fine tannins are still apparent, which makes it a better choice for enjoyment at the table (with roasted or grilled meats) rather than as a before-dinner drink.  With more dried–rather than fresh–fruit character, it may not appeal to those used to fruit forward California red wines. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 17, 2009

Longoria, Santa Barbara County (California) Red Wine “Evidence” 2005 ($42): Longoria makes fabulous Pinot Noir, but this Bordeaux blend–Merlot (50%), Cabernet Franc (36%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Malbec–is ‘evidence’ that their winemaking team is multitalented.  Despite its stated 15.5% alcohol, it is not an ‘over-the-top’ powerhouse, but rather an understated wine with surprising elegance.  The blend delivers an alluring combination of rich black fruit flavors, a haunting leafiness and subtle chocolate elements.  Ripe tannins impart a silky texture.  Except for a touch of heat in the finish–from the alcohol–it has excellent balance. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 10, 2009

Au Bon Climat, Santa Barbara County (California) Pinot Noir 2005 ($20): Overall, Jim Clendenen’s Au Bon Climat Pinot Noirs are as stylish as his famous Chardonnays.  In this one, his basic one, plum-like flavors and spice are intertwined in this nicely balanced wine.  Not over-ripe or alcoholic, it avoids the ‘Pinot Syrah’ style of Pinot Noir. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2007

Fess Parker, Santa Barbara County (California) Pinot Noir “Pommard Clone” 2006 ($58): Fess Parker produces an array of Pinot Noirs from different clones planted in different AVAs (American Viticultural Areas).  Despite the difference in AVAs, the house style–ripe full-bodied expression of Pinot Noir in contrast to the more delicate and elegant rendition–trumps whatever individuality imparted by geography.  With stated alcohol of 14.9%, this one has power and a concentrated, bold, black fruit character.  Those expecting finesse in their Pinot Noir should look elsewhere. 81 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008

Clos La Chance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Pinot Noir 2004 ($40): Usually the best wines come from old vines which have had time to send their roots deep to extract a multitude of elements from the earth.  It’s surprising, then, that this delicious Pinot Noir came from a vineyard that Nancy and Ted Biagini planted only in 1998.  Maybe the wine’s charm results from the proximity of the vineyard to Monterey Bay, the cooling influence of which retards ripening and allows grapes to develop more flavors.  Or perhaps it’s due to the low yield in the vineyard which translates into more concentrated flavors in the wine.  Or maybe it’s the talent of the winemaking team at Clos La Chance.  Whatever the reason(s), here is a captivating example of Pinot Noir that delivers a seamless combination of bright, wild berry-like fruity, along with spicy and earthy elements, all packaged in supple tannins.  It delivers flavor without heaviness or weight. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2006

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Pinot Noir Erwin Vineyard 2005 ($50): Their most limited production Pinot Noir–less than 100 cases in 2005–comes from a 4-acre vineyard owned by Elmer Erwin, who planted it in 1993.  Its elevation–2,800 feet–combined with its maritime climate means the vineyard is cool and the grapes ripen slowly.  Rocky soil and good drainage accounts, in part, for the low yields.  Polished and long, with a mouth-coating texture, it marries cherry-like fruit with spices and herbal notes.  Despite the 14.5% alcohol, it has the lovely delicacy characteristic of Clos LaChance Pinot Noir. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 22, 2008

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Pinot Noir 2008 ($32):  The stated 14.5% alcohol would suggest this is a muscular over-the-top type of Pinot Noir.  But it isn’t.  There’s certainly ripeness, but a lovely marriage of ripe fruit notes and layers of savory elements makes it work.  A surprising delicacy emerges in the finish. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2011

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Pinot Noir Biagini Vineyard 2006 ($50):  In addition to the ripe fruit impact that characterizes most California Pinot Noir, Clos LaChance has captured some earthy and savory elements, both in the nose and on the palate.  Still young and tightly wound, the oak shows prominently–but not intrusively–at this stage.  Its balance and harmony suggests it’s worth the year or two it needs to relax and come together. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2009

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Pinot Noir Biagini Vineyard 2005 ($50): Bill and Brenda Murphy, owners of Clos LaChance, purchased fruit from Nancy and Ted Biagini’s 11 acre vineyard.  They only produced about 4,200 bottles of this stylish Pinot Noir, but it is worth the search. They opted to highlight the very appealing spice, red fruit and elegant qualities of Pinot Noir rather than the concentrated very ripe (what I refer to as ‘Pinot Syrah’) style the grape can produce.  By no means a light wine, this features cinnamon-like spice and raspberry scented fruit flavors that flow effortlessly into the finish.  It reminds you of the magic of Pinot Noir–flavor without weight. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 22, 2008

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Pinot Noir 2004 ($25): Sadly, it’s unusual to find such intriguing Pinot Noir at this price, so don’t pass this one by.  This straightforward, well-balanced Pinot Noir will win friends, not with its power, but with its sweet ripe red fruit flavors counterbalanced by nuances of spicy oak. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Inez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah Estate 2007 ($30): After stumbling a bit with their 2006 vintage, Beckman is back on the mark with their 2007s.  This is a gorgeous Syrah with lots of dark fruit flavors that are intense, but not sweet or overdone.  There’s richness and spice–even a hint of bacon fat–in this exotic Syrah.  A tension between the fruit, spice and acidity keeps it vibrant and stimulates you to come back for another sip. 92 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Inez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah “Block 6” 2006 ($50): Beckman has established itself as a great producer of Syrah.  This one, from grapes grown in the highest section of the vineyard, has a plethora of flavors from plums to pepper. An aromatic beauty, it’s intense and ripe–15.2% stated alcohol–but has an uncommon elegance and complexity, which I attribute to elevation of the plot. The tannins are nicely integrated, which allows for immediate enjoyment of this robust Syrah. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2009

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Inez Valley (California) “Cuvée Le Bec” 2010 ($18):  The seamless blend of Syrah (44%), Grenache (34%), Mourvèdre (13%) and Counoise brings a lot to the table.  There’s plenty of up front, sweet red fruit notes, but also a hint of tar and even spice.  It’s a clean and pure expression of a Mediterranean blend.  Supple tannins make it easy to recommend for current consumption. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012

Talbott, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2011 ($42): Talbott’s winemaking team clearly kept the best grapes from the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard for this, their flagship wine.  Bigger still than their Logan bottling, it nonetheless remains balanced with a glorious combination of power and charm.  Intriguing savory notes appear in its incredibly long finish.  Nicely structured, the tannins and acidity are harmonious and suggest a long future although it’s so easy to enjoy now I fear few bottles will remain in anyone’s cellar.    Talbott has captured the all too elusive character of Pinot Noir — flavor without weight — in this bottling.  This is great California Pinot Noir at a remarkable price for what it is.
96 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2013

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard 2006 ($62): This single vineyard Pinot Noir is even more expansive than Morgan’s excellent 2006 from Rosella’s Vineyard (also reviewed this week). Stylistically similar to Morgan’s Rosella’s Vineayrd Pinot Noir–a glorious balance of sweet and savory elements–this one just has a little more going on.  Pleasantly gamey elements come forth with time.  Its length and complexity are impressive, but what really dazzles is the paradox of Pinot Noir–flavor without weight. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay Double L Vineyard 2010 ($40):  Morgan has hit the bull’s eye with this gorgeous Chardonnay.  A wonderful bundle of creamy, toasty and subtle fruity nuances, this Chardonnay has finesse and staying power.  Lemon-tinged acidity keeps it lively and expands the finish.  Seductive by itself, it has enough structure and complexity to accompany a grand meal.  Despite its power, it maintains grace. 94 Michael Apstein Apr 3, 2012

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Rosella’s Vineyard 2006 ($62): Morgan is consistently one of California’s top Pinot Noir producers.  Normally, I rant against wines in heavy, oversized bottles, but in this case, the wine is so good that criticizing the packaging would not be fair.  Gorgeous aromatics accurately predict great things.  Bright cherry-like flavors are intermingled almost magically with leafy, earthy nuances.  New flavors unfold with each sip.  A welcome firmness balances the ripe flavors so the wine does not come across as jammy, just rich.  A cranberry-like acidity carries the flavors into a lengthy finish. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 6, 2009

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Double L Vineyard 2010 ($50):  Morgan continues its streak of terrific Pinot Noir with this 2010 Double L Vineyard bottling.  A powerful rendition, redolent of black rather than red fruit, it nonetheless is balanced, well proportioned and not overdone.  Add to that, its aromatic beginning, polished tannins and impressive length and you have a classy wine. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

Novy, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Syrah Garys’ Vineyard 2005 ($33): Novy has produced several Syrah from a variety of vineyards and shows that the French have no monopoly of the concept of terroir.  Novy’s Syrah bottlings are all different and show the many sides of that grape.   This one, from Garys’ Vineyard, has a prominent pepperiness associated with cool-weather Syrah with an attractive dollop of toasty oak and hints of bacon fat in the finish.  Nicely balanced, the panoply of flavors carries effortlessly into the finish. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Novy, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Syrah Rosella’s Vineyard 2005 ($33): Novy’s Syrah from Rosella’s Vineayrd has a wild, meaty, almost gamey edge atop the underlying black pepper component.  The wild flavors marry well with the peppery spice.  Think Novy Syrah when grilling meat this summer. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Talbott, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard “Logan” 2011 ($23): Talbott’s 2011 Logan Pinot Noir has developed beautifully in the five months since I last tasted it, which is why I am recommending again.  Drawing fruit exclusively from the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, it is a bigger and more complex version of their Kali Hart bottling.  Even with the increased weight, Talbott manages not to disturb the balance, which keeps the wine’s finesse.  More concentrated fruit flavors harmonize effortlessly with savory notes.  Its charms are still evident in its long and graceful finish.  This is an extraordinary Pinot Noir for the price.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2013

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Pinot Noir “Rosella’s Vineyard” 2004 ($45): This is my favorite of Morgan’s three single vineyard Pinot Noirs because of its balance and lengthy finish.  Don’t expect a clone of red Burgundy.  Rather, its lush, spicy overtones dominate and deliver what you expect from ripe, power-packed California Pinot Noir. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007

Patz & Hall, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Pissoni Vineyard 2005 ($85): Donald Patz and his partner James Hall own virtually no vineyards, yet they produce a bevy of stylish Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.  They scour California for vineyards and then lease portions of them, using the grapes for their wines.  Patz has a Burgundian mentality–which is apparent in the wines–to ‘allow the grapes to speak for themselves.’  Although not their current release, this wine is still readily available.  It’s worth looking for since their Pinot Noir show best after a year or two in the bottle.  Using grapes from the Pissoni Vineyard, they marry the red cherry fruit and ethereal earthy elements characteristic of great Pinot Noir to produce a Burgundian style of wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008

Sequana, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir 2009 ($32):  Judging from the principals, Tom Selfridge (former president of three premium California wineries, Beaulieu Vineyards, The Hess Collection Winery and Chalone Wine Group) and James MacPhail (who worked with Pinot Noir experts Merry Edwards and Gary Farrell), Sequana, which specializes in Pinot Noir, should be successful.  Judging from three of their 2009s, they already are.  This one, from the Sarmento Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, has a lovely spice and floral aspect.  Bright flavors dance across the palate. Toasty oak is apparent but does not overwhelm the wine’s delicacy.  With so many overdone Pinot Noir on the market, this pretty wine is a welcome addition. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2011

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Syrah NV ($20): This Syrah emphasizes the plumy sweet side of that varietal. A hint of white pepper adds intrigue and keeps you coming back for more. Fine tannins make it perfect for current consumption with robust fare.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2013

Gallo, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir “Signature Series” 2011 ($35): In many ways, Gallo, a producer responsible for one out of every four bottles of wine sold in the US, has a high hurdle to jump because so many consumers associate it with low end jug wine.  Gina Gallo, founder Julio Gallo’s granddaughter and winemaker, is quietly and persistently changing that image.  To their credit they bottle their notable and excellent high-end wines — the Signature Series — under the Gallo name instead of hiding them behind an anonymous label.  This 2011 Pinot Noir, rich and focused on ripe dark fruit flavors, is beautifully textured.   Another year or so of bottle aging should allow a seamless marriage of the oak and fruit.
87 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2013

Estancia, Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Pinot Noir 2005 ($25): The intensity of this wine overshadows the complexity the Pinot Noir varietal is capable of achieving.  Nonetheless, the concentrated and ripe black fruit flavors and the soft, supple tannins make it easy to drink now. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2008

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Double L Vineyard 2006 ($62): Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey, California) Pinot Noir,  2006 ($62): With verve in the finish, Morgan’s Double L Vineyard Pinot Noir has much better balance than their Tondre Grapefield bottling, but still tends toward the ‘Pinot Syrah’ camp of Pinot Noir.  To its credit, it conveys lovely leafy and smoky nuances atop the ripe concentrated flavors of black fruits.  I remember more delicacy in past vintages of Morgan’s Pinot Noir and wonder if they have changed their style intentionally or this concentrated wine just reflects the vintage. 85 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Tondre Grapefield Vineyard 2006 ($45): I wish that wineries would dispense with heavy oversized bottles, such as this one, both for ecologic reasons and because they don’t conveniently fit into many wine racks.  The weight of the bottle, in this case, does reflect the weight of the wine.  The concentrated black fruit flavors border on jamminess, which is amplified by the lack of grip in the finish.  This big, extracted wine–with 14.4% stated alcohol–reflects the ripeness of the grapes and comes across as a more tender, slightly sweet, style of Pinot Noir despite the absence of residual sugar. 84 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008

Byron, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2006 ($40): Byron’s lineup of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay make a compelling case that Santa Maria Valley is the place in California for these Burgundian grapes. At first blush, it’s counter-intuitive to think that these varieties that thrive in cooler locales would do well in Southern California.  But the Santa Maria Valley runs east to west, opening onto the Pacific and exposing the vineyards to the cooling influences of the ocean.  This is a classic Pinot Noir with the almost magical combination of bright red fruit flavors, subtle earthy or savory notes and a silky texture.  And with less than 14% stated alcohol, it doesn’t clobber the palate with alcohol and heat. 95 Michael Apstein Mar 10, 2009

Byron, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Sierra Madre Vineyard 2006 ($40): This is one of the stunning array of vineyard designated Pinot Noir from the Santa Maria Valley that Byron made in 2006.  The vineyard, planted in 1974, contains a healthy proportion of mature vines that contribute to this wine’s complexity and depth.  Ripe black fruit flavors are succulent, not overdone, and complemented by savory, herbal notes.  Despite the 14.6% stated alcohol, it’s not heavy or overdone, showing you cannot judge wine solely by the numbers.  Its wonderful balance and complexity persists into the long finish because of uplifting black cherry-like acidity. Not a Burgundy wannabe, it’s a great Pinot Noir from California. 95 Michael Apstein Feb 24, 2009

Au Bon Climat, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir “La Bauge Au-Dessus” 2006 ($35): Jim Clendenen is one of California’s most accomplished winemakers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  This gorgeous Pinot Noir-the grapes come from the Bien Nacido vineyard, a top locale for the variety–combines fresh red fruit-like flavors with a captivating smoky earthiness and a hint of spice.  It’s remarkably layered and deep without heaviness.  Finely polished tannins allow you to enjoy this wine now although I suspect additional complexity will emerge over the next year or so. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard 2005 ($40): Bien Nacido Vineyard has a well-deserved reputation for providing high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes to a variety of winemakers.  Although three-fourths of its 600 acres are planted to those two grapes, a few blocks are planted to Syrah.  Judging from this wine, Syrah seems to do well in Bien Nacido as well.  Bonny Doon has fashioned a wine that combines the spice and the ripe plum elements that Syrah expresses.  It impresses with complexity and finesse, not just hit-you-in-the-head kind of raw power.  Beautifully balanced, it’s a delight–and under 14% alcohol. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008

Byron, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Nielson Vineyard 2006 ($45): In addition to a site for high quality Chardonnay, the Nielson Vineyard, Santa Barbara’s first commercial vineyard, is an excellent locale for Pinot Noir.  This Pinot Noir has unusual complexity–old vines speaking–with both sweet, ripe cherry-like fruit notes and savory elements, even a hint of black pepper.  Good acidity means it’s vibrant, not heavy.  A touch of heat–no doubt from the 14.4% stated alcohol–in the finish detracts from an otherwise outstanding Pinot Noir. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 17, 2009

Dierberg, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($42): Although a ripe style of Pinot Noir, Dierberg’s is not overdone so, thankfully, it does not fall into the ‘Pinot Syrah’ category.  Rather it combines sweet fruit flavors with earthy, almost leafy notes, which provide an alluring complexity.  Only a touch of heat in an otherwise long and lip-smacking finish detracts from this full-bodied example of Pinot Noir. 89 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008

Fess Parker, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2006 ($50):  In keeping with the Fess Parker style of concentrated intense Pinot Noir, theirs from the Bien Nacido Vineyard assaults the palate with succulent ripe black fruit flavors, herbal elements and sweet toasty oak. This oversized wine is balanced except for a touch of heat from the 14.9% stated alcohol in the finish. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008

Longoria, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Sanford and Benedict Vineyard 2006 ($45): This outstanding wine comes from grapes planted in the early 1970s by Richard Sanford in what has become the famed Sanford and Benedict Vineyard.  The age of the vines helps explain the extraordinary complexity and finesse of this wine.  An aromatic delight, it’s not just full of fruit–although there’s plenty of that–but rather it bombards the palate with flavors of earth, spice and herbs in addition.  With a modest–these days–stated alcohol of 14.3%, it is balanced and refined, without a trace of heaviness or heat.  It’s a great example of the complexity and allure of Pinot Noir. 96 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008

Foley, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa 2005 ($40): Bill Foley believes it’s the limestone subsoil and the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean at his Rancho Santa Rosa Estate that give his wines character and grace.  Whatever the reason, Foley produces outstanding Pinot Noir.  Planted in the late 90s, the 2005 vintage is only his fourth, which makes its quality all that much more impressive.  The 2005 has the unbeatable combination of sweet fruit, spice, and an earthy minerality that is the hallmark of Pinot Noir. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2008

Gainey Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir “Limited Selection” 2007 ($48):  Gainey, a leader in Santa Ynez Valley, has fashioned a classically proportioned Pinot Noir.  Ripe, with its focus on pure clean fruit–cherry-like–flavors, it clearly reflects its origins.  Silky texture makes it hard to resist. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2010

MacMurray, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2004 ($35): The 2004 is the most successful wine under this label since Gallo bought the property several years ago.  It has plump, not jammy, fruit as well as intriguing earthy nuances that lend complexity. The flavors persist into the finish of this nicely balanced wine. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007

Hitching Post, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir “St. Rita’s Earth” 2006 ($35): Frank Harley and Gray Ostini, owners of Hitching Post, have been making wines in Santa Barbara since the early 1980s and focus on Pinot Noir, Syrah and Cabernet Franc.  In this full-bodied Pinot Noir sweet, ripe fruit flavors predominate but then are followed by subtle herbal elements and attractive smoky and gamey notes.  Sadly, the hot pepper-like finish mars an otherwise well-balanced Pinot Noir. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 2, 2008

Sea Smoke, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir “Botella” 2005 ($40): Sea Smoke makes powerful, ripe–14.7% alcohol–Pinot Noir, what I call ‘Pinot Syrah.’  Supple tannins accompany the concentrated, slightly jammy flavors.  It will appeal to those who like full-bodied wines. 83 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2008

Sea Smoke, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir “Ten” 2005 ($70): Ten refers to the number of clones of Pinot Noir that provided fruit for this 14.9% alcohol wine.  In the Sea Smoke style, it is very powerful and concentrated, with polished tannins.  The alcohol reveals itself as heat in the finish.  Those looking for delicacy and subtlety in Pinot Noir will be disappointed. 82 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2008

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (California) Syrah Purisima Mountain Vineyard Block 6 2003 ($45): Beckman Vineyards, just over ten years old, has already made a name for itself as a great producer of Rhone style wines in the Santa Ynez Valley. This Syrah, from a section of their Pruisima Mountain vineyard that they farm biodynamically, is a powerhouse of a wine that nevertheless retains grace and balance. Supple tannins underpin black fruit flavors and allow its complexity and finish to shine. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006

Beckmen Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah ‘Estate’ 2008 ($25): Beckman’s Estate Syrah rarely disappoints.  This one certainly doesn’t.  Beckman has combined the peppery and plumy aspects of this Janus-like grape into an intriguing wine. Each sip reveals new flavors—with time a hint of bacon fat emerges from the plumy notes.  Polished tannins and the right weight—intense without assaulting the senses—make it a joy to drink now. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 6, 2010

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah 2004 ($22): Gorgeous aromas of fresh fruits mixed with herbs suggest an excellent wine.  The taste does not disappoint.  It has plenty of concentration and a long, succulent finish.  Not overdone, this wine shows the hallmark of Beckman’s wines, which is balance. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2007

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah “Estate” 2003 ($22): Beckman makes two levels of Syrah, this one, labeled ‘Estate’ and sourced from more than one vineyard, and more expensive ones labeled Purisima Mountain Vineyard.  The 2003 Estate Syrah, a substantial wine with an alluring mixture of spice and earthy flavors, retains considerable polish and elegance. It offers a lot of enjoyment for the price. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah Purisima Mountain Vineyard 2008 ($48): Beckman adds a touch of grace and elegance to this robust mountain Syrah, which keeps it from being over the top. Alluring gamey nuances counterbalance its size and weight. Succulent, mouthwatering black fruit notes persist into the finish. Serve it with grilled herb rubbed leg of lamb now or save it for hearty mid-winter fare. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 2, 2011

Babcock, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir “Rita’s Earth Cuvée” 2006 ($23): Pinot Noir when grown in hot climates does not produce wines with elegance and nuance.  So it must be Babcock’s location on the western edge of the Santa Ynez Valley in Northern Santa Barbara County where the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean allows them to produce this beautifully balanced wine.  Its restrained fruitiness (only 13.5% alcohol) and earthy elements makes it a welcome contrast to the 15% alcohol ‘Pinot Syrah’ coming from California these days.  Take note: Babcock’s much bolder and pricier Grand Cuvée Pinot Noir shows that bigger is not necessarily better when it comes to Pinot Noir. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (California) Syrah Estate 2006 ($28): Santa Barbara County seems to be an excellent site for classy Syrah.  This one, from a consistently excellent producer, combines sweet, ripe black fruit with a hint of bacon fat in the background to emphasize the plumy–as opposed to the peppery–aspect of Syrah.  Toasty oak and gamey nuances add complexity to this big–but not monstrous–well-balanced Syrah. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) “Cuvée Le Bec” 2007 ($20): A typical blend of Rhône grapes–Grenache (44%), Syrah (28%), Mourvedre (20%) and Counoise–this big wine delivers a potpourri of black fruit flavors, earthy notes and herbal nuances that carry nicely into the finish.  Powerful, but balanced, even the touch of heat in the finish (15.1% stated alcohol) is not out of place.  It’s a good wine to have around for hearty fare as the temperature drops. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 22, 2009

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) “Cuvée Le Bec” 2008 ($18):  Beckman makes excellent Rhône blends.  This one, a traditional blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah (25%), with the remainder split between Mourvèdre and Counoise, is packed with spiced fruit flavors without being overdone.  Supple tannins give it structure and prevent it from being jammy.  A good choice for wintry fare. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2010

Star Lane Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) “Astral” 2005 ($100): Although Star Lane’s first vintage was 2001, this is their first vintage of their Cabernet because prior years did not meet their standards.  Santa Ynez Valley is an unusual place for high end Cabernet Sauvignon, but this bottling shows that the region holds promise, considering the vineyard was planted only in 2001.  A muscular style of Cabernet, it has the intensity common to mountain grown fruit, but without the searing tannins sometimes associated with those bottlings.  It’s actually remarkably plush.  Aromatically effusive, it delivers aromas of olives, herbs and grilled meat, all of which follow on the palate.  Its concentration and ripeness borders on the edge of being over the top, but it is not.  The only sour note, which one doesn’t expect at this price, is the jarring burn of alcohol in the finish. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 2, 2008

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) “Cuvée Le Bec” 2006 ($20): A typical southern Mediterranean blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah (28%), Mourvedre (15%), and Counoise (7%), Beckman’s Cuvée Le Bec is an engaging easy to drink wine perfect for barbeque or burgers on the grill.  Although Syrah comprises a quarter of the blend, its dark fruit flavors take a backseat to the bright spiced strawberry and cherry-like flavors of Grenache. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008

Easton, Shenandoah Valley (Amador County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Estate Cabernet” 2002 ($33):

This beautifully harmonious wine is Easton’s current release.  The additional bottle age has served it well and is a powerful argument that Cabernet from Amador–a site more known for Zinfandel–can develop into something special.  This Cabernet shows restraint and herbal notes that may disappoint those looking for shear power, but will delight those searching for more subtlety and complexity in their wines.  Supple tannins, good length and a sense of balance make this a fine choice for current consumption.

92 Michael Apstein Nov 17, 2009

Noceto, Shenandoah Valley (Amador County, California) Sangiovese 2007 ($15): Noceto, one of the few California wineries that ‘specialize’ in Sangiovese, has produced a direct, juicy, mid-weight wine, reminiscent of Chianti.  Not overdone or overripe, it has subtle smoke and earth nuances to complement its cherry-like flavors. Bright acidity keeps it fresh and lively. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008

Terre Rouge, Sierra Foothills (Amador County, California) Syrah “High Slopes” 2003 ($35): The 2003 vintage of Terre Rouge’s High Slopes Syrah, a wonderful wine, is the one currently available.  Part of the allure of this wine is likely due to a couple of extra years of bottle age.  This sophisticated Syrah has a marvelous balance of the spicy and plummy flavors that the varietal can deliver.  Its bright and lively nature likely comes from the high altitude of the vineyards, which moderates the daytime temperature and, more importantly, allows for dramatic day-night temperature swings that capture acidity.  Great aromatics, herbal and gamey notes add to its allure.  Fine tannins lend support without intruding, which means it’s a fine choice for the dinner table now. A remarkable Syrah at a remarkable price. 94 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008

Freeman Vineyard & Winery, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Akiko’s Cuvée” 2006 ($52):

This is fabulous Pinot Noir.  Akiko Freeman, who has no formal training in winemaking and is technically the assistant winemaker, put together an outstanding blend using wines made from grapes grown in 12 different vineyards.  Leafy, gamey and even slightly smoky elements meld seamlessly with the sweet ripe fruit flavors found in their regular Sonoma Coast bottling.  The complexity is readily apparent in a seemingly endless finish.  This beautifully balanced and polished wine shows Pinot Noir’s unique ability to combine savory and sweet elements simultaneously.  I have all too often spent far more money on far less interesting Pinot Noirs.

96 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

Schug, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2008 ($24):  At the recently concluded San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, my panel awarded this wine a Gold Medal and selected it as the “Best of Class” in the $20 to $25 Pinot Noir category.  (The 2007 also won a Gold Medal at the same competition last year).  It has a wonderful balance of sweet, cherry-like fruit elements and savory notes.  With refinement that is often lacking in California Pinot Noir, it’s rich without being overdone.   It’s more enjoyable than many at twice its price.  Don’t miss it. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2010

MacPhail Family Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard 2009 ($49):  Judging from his lineup of Pinot Noir, James MacPhail is a winemaker to watch.  This one, from the Sangiacomo Vineyard near the coast, is fuller and spicier with more black, rather than red, fruit than his Pinot Noir from the Toulouse Vineyard in Anderson Valley (also reviewed this week).  It has more punch, but is still clearly Pinot Noir, as opposed to an overdone “Pinot Syrah” style.   Despite more power, it has same elegance and near magical combination of fruit and earthy flavors for which Pinot Noir is prized.  Fans of young California Pinot will embrace it now, but my money is on every more harmony after a few years in the cellar. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (California) Syrah 2003 ($45): This is a great Syrah.  In a blind tasting of Syrah from around the world, it stood out as one of the best.  One taster correctly identified its California origin while two others were adamant it hailed from Europe.  The cool Sonoma Coast climate helps explain the misidentification.  The grapes were harvested late, at the end of October, which I imagine contributed to the wine’s complexity.  It delivers what I expect from Syrah–a combination of ripe dark fruit flavors intermingled with earthy, even leathery ones all supported by fine tannins and lively acidity. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2006

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2009 ($36):  Merry Edwards is one of California’s star Pinot Noir producers.  In addition to her multiple single vineyard bottlings from the Russian River Valley, she has this one from grapes grown in various vineyards in the Sonoma Coast AVA.  Fog frequently blankets the vineyards in the Sonoma Coast, which keeps the grapes from becoming over ripe and preserves acidity.  Her 2009 Sonoma Coast offering is particularly attractive and reflects those climatic conditions delivering a seamless mixture of red fruit and earthy flavors amplified by a vibrant finish.  I hate to classify a $36 wine as a bargain, but it is for top-notch Pinot Noir. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2012

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2008 ($36):  Slightly leaner than her Russian River Valley bottling (also reviewed this week), this Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir has more delicate red fruit notes and a lower alcohol than reflect the cooler signature of the Sonoma Coast.  There’s still a lovely mingling of fruit, spice and earthy flavors that dance across the palate. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2011

Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2010 ($20):  Fred Cline (of Cline Cellars) and his wife, Nancy, founded Jacuzzi Family Vineyards in 1994 to honor Cline’s grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi, and his Italian heritage.  Not surprisingly, their press materials note that they “specialize in Italian varietal wines.”  The surprise is the quality of this Pinot Noir, hardly an Italian varietal.  Lovely sour cherry notes intermingled with earthy nuances make for a delightfully balanced less ripe style of Pinot Noir.  Just a hint of toastiness from the judicious use of oak aging is another nice touch.  It’s nice to see winemakers capturing the delicacy and complexity of Pinot Noir rather than obliterating it by harvesting over ripe grapes.  You’d be hard pressed to fine a better California Pinot Noir at this price. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

MacMurray Ranch, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2009 ($27):  The cool Sonoma Coast climate likely explains the engaging herbal elements that emerge from the pure red fruit notes.  The combination makes for a delightfully charming Pinot Noir that avoids both jammy sweetness and the “Pinot Syrah” moniker.  The polished tannins allow for immediate enjoyment.  And it’s well priced–for Pinot Noir.  Nicely done. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

Roth Estate, Sonoma Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2009 ($25):  Sadly for Pinot Noir lovers, it’s hard to find stylish ones under $30.  Well, here’s one.  It focuses on and emphasizes the sweet primary fruit aspect of Pinot Noir.  Though ripe, it does not fall into the “Pinot Syrah” style of California Pinot Noir because the grapes come from the cooler Sonoma Coast area.  Polished supple tannins allow immediate enjoyment.  Try it with flank steak on the grill. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2011

Sebastiani, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($16): A hint of wet earth complements the bright red fruit flavors in this stylish Pinot Noir.  Beautifully balanced, the bright acidity carries the flavors into its considerable finish.  With a ‘mere’ 13.5% alcohol, they must have turned down the volume and as a result, you hear more of the notes. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

La Rochelle, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2008 ($42):  This rather intense Pinot Noir, which weighs in at a hefty 14.8% stated alcohol, still maintains balance and finesse while delivering strawberry and other red fruited flavors.  Spicy notes add an exotic touch.  Although full-flavored, it avoids jamminess and being confused with Syrah.  Give this thirty minutes in the refrigerator to be sure it’s served at “cellar” temperature, which will keep the alcohol from dominating its other notes. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2011

Clos du Bois, Sonoma Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($25): The cooler climate of the Sonoma Coast AVA means it’s potentially a good locale for Pinot Noir, a varietal that thrives in cooler weather.  Lip-smacking acidity and a hint of savory elements to balance the ripe fresh and dried black cherry notes.  With better balance and length than expected from a Pinot Noir at this price, it’s an easy wine to recommend. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 10, 2009

Flowers Vineyard and Winery, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($45): Flowers was one of the first to realize the potential of the Sonoma Coast for Pinot Noir when they started planting in the early 1990s.  Although the Sonoma Coast AVA is enormous and diffuse, Flowers’ vineyards are located in a cool area very near the coast, in what they call, ‘the true Sonoma Coast.’  In addition to their single vineyard bottlings, they supplement their grapes (85%) with those from contract growers to produce this stylish Pinot Noir.  The 2006 has a bit of earthiness to balance its ripe, pure red fruit character.  It’s a nicely balanced wine that shows the multiple facets of the variety. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 16, 2008

Fort Ross Vineyard, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Symposium” 2006 ($30):  The name Symposium comes from the merging of intended reserve and vineyard designated lots.  Aged in mostly used oak for nine months, this lighter Pinot Noir is blended with 4% Pinotage, “to fill in the middle.”  The color is a deep ruby and the aromatics show exotic spice accents blended with cherry-berry and boiled tea notes.  Dry with layered fruit, full tannins, 14.1% alcohol, the finish is a little rustic that should merge into the wine with more bottle age. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 7, 2010

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2005 ($33): Producers still consider Pinot Noir from Sonoma Coast, an up and coming area for this fickle variety, to be a work in progress since most growers have less than a decade of experience in those parts.  Less earth and more pure fruit flavors makes this one the least interesting of these three Merry Edwards Pinot Noirs.  Still, it’s cut above most versions coming out of California and shows the potential of the area. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Ram’s Gate, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma Coast, California) Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyards Roberts Road 2010 ($68): Ram’s Gate is known for their small batch single vineyard Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, which tend to be big and bold. This Pinot Noir from Sangiacomo Vineyards Roberts Road leads with gorgeous aromas of red fruits, spice and herbal notes. Sweet cherry-like red fruit nuances dominate the palate and finish. Lighter styled than their Russian River Bush Crispo Vineyards offering, it shows that the Burgundians don’t have a monopoly on the importance of site in determining style of wine.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2013

Freeman Vineyard & Winery, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2006 ($41):

Somewhat surprisingly since the Sonoma Coast has a reputation as a very cool region, this Pinot Noir delivers very ripe black and red fruit flavors more associated with warmer sites.  Smooth and round, it will appeal to those who prefer lush fruit forward flavors to more savory notes in their Pinot Noir.

87 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

St. Francis, Sonoma County (California) Syrah 2002 ($20): St. Francis has made a smashing 2002 Syrah by blending it, as in the southern Rhone tradition, with other Mediterranean varieties, Mourvèdre and Grenache. This multilayered wine has an engaging edginess and supple supporting tannins to keep it interesting throughout a meal. Despite it’s 15+ percent alcohol, reflecting the ripeness of the grapes and intensity of the flavors, it is a beautifully balanced wine. 94 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006

Chateau St. Jean, Sonoma County (California) “Cinq Cépages” 2005 ($75): Although Chateau St. Jean produces far more white wine than red, they describe this Bordeaux blend as their ‘flagship.’  And rightly so.  Always predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon–83% for the 2005–they use the other four ‘Bordeaux’ grapes–Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot–from vineyards throughout Sonoma County, including Alexander, Russian River, Dry Creek, Knights and Sonoma Valleys.  Supple and spicy, it’s an alluring combination of dark black fruit-like flavors (black cherry) and herbal notes wrapped in a glossy robe.  Long and suave, it’s a delight now, but its lovely balance suggests it will develop even more complexity over the next several years. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009

St. Francis, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Wild Oak” 2004 ($38): Wine for St. Francis’ Wild Oak label comes from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon grown in various mountain vineyards in Sonoma County.  Mountain vineyards, while providing concentrated flavors, can also bring hard, unyielding tannins.  St. Francis has managed to capture the succulent, concentrated black fruit flavors–and a healthy dose of minerality–from their mountain fruit while leaving behind the hard tannins.  Here the tannins are polished and the wine has a glossy feel to it.  Herbal notes round out the flavor profile.  The complexity of flavors and overall polished texture make it an excellent Cabernet at a reasonable price. 92 Michael Apstein May 5, 2009

Cline, Sonoma County (California) Syrah 2009 ($12):  Cline, best known for their Zinfandel, has made an impressive Syrah.  Less massive than their other Syrahs, Cline’s Sonoma County bottling weighs in at only 13% stated alcohol, which, I suspect, explains why I find it so alluring.  Using less ripe fruit allows a multiple of flavors–instead of just bombastic fruit–to come through. It delivers meaty, spicy and peppery notes intertwined with dark fruit flavors.  Supple tannins and lively balancing acidity round it out.  A good choice for a hearty lamb dish this fall. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2011

Louis M. Martini, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($18):  Martini’s Cabernets are consistently well made and well priced, and this one didn’t disappoint.  It has aromas of plums and black fruit, accented with cigar-box spice and a slight herbal note.  The wine is medium-bodied, with lush black fruit flavors and a hint of milk chocolate. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012

St. Francis, Sonoma County (California) Merlot 2005 ($18): This, St. Francis’s regular bottling of Merlot, is delightful.  It combines leafy herbal notes characteristic of Merlot–but all too often lacking as the grapes get overripe–with ripe red fruit flavors and a touch of spice to produce engaging complexity.  Fresh and balanced, it’s a wine you can drink throughout a meal without tiring of it. 89 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009

Louis Martini, Sonoma County (Sonoma County) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($18): Wines like this one remind you why California Cabernet is so popular. Suave tannins enrobe ripe juicy black fruit notes. A hint of spicy vanilla adds a nice touch. It maintains the right balance of depth and grace. It’s perfect for drinking tonight — and nicely priced.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013

Ravenswood, Sonoma County (California) “Icon Native Sonoma Mixed Blacks Red Wine” 2006 ($75): The blend for this brooding wine, Zinfandel, Petite Syrah, Carignan, and Alicante Bouschet from vines planted prior to prohibition, was put together by Joel Peterson, Ravenswood’s winemaker and continues their tradition of ‘no wimpy wines.’  Big and bombastic, it has firm tannins that support its robust nature.  Its grip, size and heat in the finish are reminiscent of Port without the sweetness.  For this powerhouse, plan on lamb shanks and freezing weather. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 17, 2009

St. Francis, Sonoma County (California) Merlot 2007 ($22):  A small amount (5%) of Malbec and Petit Verdot in the blend adds heft to this silky black-fruited Merlot.  Complexity emerges in the finish.  Powerful without being overdone, it’s best suited for the table and a juicy steak rather than as a stand-alone glass of red wine. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2011

Gallo Family Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Merlot Reserve 2005 ($13): Some consumers criticize Gallo for its size.  But the advantage of a large — OK, very large — winery is that they can easily bottle wines of different quality under different labels.  If they have a batch that’s not quite up to snuff, it can be sold under another label at a lower price.  By careful selection, they have managed to combine the intriguing earthy and fruity qualities of Merlot into a stylish wine with polished tannins.  Not just a ‘fruit bomb,’ it has more complexity than expected for the price.  With over 400,000 bottles produced, it should be widely available, a good thing. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2007

Louis M. Martini, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 ($18): With its focus on soft lush black fruit flavors, Martini’s straight Sonoma County Cabernet is perfectly fine, especially for the price.  Its suppleness makes it delightful for current consumption.  It may lack the complexity of its stable mates, but also lacks their price tags.
87 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2013

Steelhead Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Pinot Noir 2011 ($14): With a lively mixture of fresh fruit notes and a hint of savory herbal elements, Steelhead Vineyards has crafted a classic example of Sonoma County Pinot Noir.  Its charm is immediately apparent because of its soft, almost undetectable, tannins, which means it’s perfect for current consumption.
86 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013

Kenwood Vineyards, Sonoma County () NV ($0):   Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2013

Laurel Glen Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($60): Wow. It’s an explosive wine, yet not at all boisterous or in your face. For all its exuberance, it has plenty of finesse. Black fruit, spice and dark minerality are all combined in this gorgeously long and sophisticated wine. A hint of tar in the finish adds complexity and intrigue to this long and refined wine. The tannins are fine, which makes it enjoyable now, with a nicely grilled hunk of meat, but it has the requisite balance and structure to develop even more complexity with five or so years in the cellar.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013

B. R. Cohn, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($59):  This wine, made from estate-grown grapes, has always been BR Cohn’s best Cabernet.  And judging from a bottle of the 1984 I had recently, it develops beautifully.  But the 2007 is so captivating now, it’s hard to imagine that consumers will ever know how it develops.  Without being prejudiced by the name, there are engaging nuances of black and green olive that complement and amplify the black current notes. Not a blockbuster despite its stated 14.5% alcohol, it has real class and sophistication, emphasizing layers of flavors as opposed to sheer power. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 4, 2011

Nicholson Ranch Winery, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Syrah 2007 ($38):  According to their website, Nicholson Ranch Winery, located between Napa and Sonoma Valleys, is known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  After tasting this Syrah, I’d definitely add that varietal to the list.  A Gold Medal-winning wine at the recently concluded San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, this tightly wound Syrah reveals complex leathery nuances after a few minutes in the glass.  Beautifully balanced, they have resisted the temptation of making an overblown, jammy example.  Instead, its power is noticeable, but restrained and its tannins supple, not searing.  It’s a good choice for hearty wintertime fare. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2010

Eponymous, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Franc MacAllister Vineyard 2009 ($48):  When Robert Pepi sold his winery, he sold the rights to use the name as well.  Unable to use his name when he started making wines again about a decade ago, he opted for the tongue-in-cheek, Eponymous.  Cabernet Franc, used widely in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, is prized for its alluring aromatic herbal notes.  Sadly, when not sufficiently ripe, it also conveys unpleasant vegetal nuances.  Pepi has clearly avoided the downside of Cabernet Franc with this wine, which delivers an array of attractive leafy aromas that balance the ripe bright red fruit notes.  A savory, almost bacon fat, quality adds to its overall appeal.  Polished tannins add class and an immediate accessibility.  With a modest 13.7% stated alcohol, Pepi shows that you don’t need super ripe grapes to make excellent wine. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2011

B. R. Cohn, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olive Hill Estate Vineyards 2007 ($43):  Who knew?  BR Cohn, well known for their stylish Cabernet, has been making Pinot Noir for 25 years, but sold it only at the winery.  The 2007 vintage marks their first general release.  It’s bold, ripe, New World Pinot with plenty of sweet fruit and a dollop of oak.  Despite its size, it has charm and is not overdone.  Except for a touch of heat in the finish, its14.5% stated alcohol doesn’t overwhelm.  Those looking for Burgundian styled Pinot Noir will be disappointed, but this well-made wine will please everyone else. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 4, 2011

Bedrock Wine Company, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel “Old Vine” 2011 ($33): Some winemakers manage to get Zinfandel right.  Morgan Twain-Peterson, the driving force and winemaker of the Bedrock Wine Company, is one of them.  Big and burly, of course—it is Zinfandel—Twain-Peterson has managed to keep it within bounds and, most importantly, fresh, with enlivening acidity.  There is, dare I say, actual elegance in the finish. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013

Kendall Jackson, Sonoma/Napa Counties (California) Merlot Grand Reserve 2004 ($26): Kendall Jackson’s Grand Reserve line of wines, a level above its basic Vintner’s Reserve, come exclusively from grapes grown in KJ vineyards as opposed to purchased grapes.  Considerably classier than its very good 2004 Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, it has more going on in it all around, from more engaging aromatics, layers of flavors and a haunting finish.  The oak aging enhances rather than overwhelms.  Beautifully balanced, its bright cherry acidity enlivens the wine.  Open it side-by-side with the 2004 Vintner’s Reserve and decide for yourself whether it’s worthy of the extra money. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2007

Smith-Madrone, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($40): This under-rated winery located on Spring Mountain produces excellent Cabernets from their mountainside vineyards.  Wines made from mountainside grapes often have powerful tannins to accompany the concentration of fruit.  But Smith-Madrone manages a glossy polish to their supportive tannins in this deep cassis-scented Cabernet.  A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon with the rest a split of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the rich fruit flavors meld with a lively spice and a hint of earth.  Engaging now, I suspect more enjoyment will come from another year of so of bottle aging. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2008

Ehlers Estate, St. Helena (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “1886” 2005 ($95): This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon represents Ehlers Estate’s super-duper cuvee, and is far superior to their other wines because of excellent balance and complexity.  Its grandeur is immediately apparent in the layers of aromas that rise from the glass and reinforced by an incredible finish.  In between, the ripe black fruit flavors are beautifully entwined with nuances of toasty oak, herbs and smoky elements.  Polished tannins give it a glossy texture. With a stated alcohol only 0.2 percent less (14.7%) than their other wines, it is clear that the absolute level of alcohol should not be sole criteria for judging wines.  It’s the overall balance, which in this case is impeccable, that makes a great wine. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2008

Ehlers Estate, St. Helena (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($45): Similar to this producer’s Merlot, this Cabernet-predominant (78% ) blend of Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot is filled with very ripe intense black fruit flavors.  The 14.9% alcohol is less apparent because this is a fleshier wine with supporting tannins that keep it in better balance.  Still, this is a powerhouse of Cabernet that struts sheer power over grace. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2008

Ehlers Estate, St. Helena (Napa Valley, California) Merlot 2005 ($45): All of the profits from Ehlers Estate go to support a foundation for cardiovascular research, hence the heart logo in the ‘E’ on the label.  The heavy bottle suggests–rightly so in this case–a weighty wine.  A blend of Merlot (81%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and the remainder Cabernet Franc, this wine delivers power and ripe dark fruit flavors–but at the expense of finesse or complexity.  It’s a chunky wine that I suspect would have been better with less than its stated 14.9% alcohol, which imparts a hot finish. 86 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2008

Fess Parker, Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Ashley’s Vineyard 2006 ($50): The Santa Rita Hills AVA (officially known as Sta. Rita to avoid legal problems with the Chilean winery, Santa Rita), a cool climate area almost entirely within the Santa Ynez AVA, should be ideal for showcasing the complexity of Pinot Noir.  Fess Parker has opted to fashion an intense style of Pinot Noir–more ‘Pinot Syrah’–with more power and less finesse than is usually associated with the varietal.  Weighing in at a stated 14.7% alcohol, this weighty spicy and ripe wine shows that, at least in California, Pinot Noir comes in a very wide range of styles.  This muscular type of Pinot Noir will appeal to those who prefer ‘big’ wines.  Fans of a more delicate kind of Pinot Noir, take note. 86 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008

Clos du Val, Stag’s Leap District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($70): The polished silkiness of this wine screams Stag’s Leap.  Black currant fruit-like flavors dominate but an alluring earthy minerality is apparent and adds complexity.  Despite its lush texture and polished tannins, it is not soft, but has plenty of structure.  That seeming paradox speaks to talented winemaking.  It’s a luxurious wine that is hard to resist now, but undoubtedly will evolve beautifully over the years. 94 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

Shafer, Stag’s Leap District (Napa Valley, California) “One Point Five” 2004 ($65): One of the things I love about Shafer’s wines is that they are unabashedly Californian.  They take ripe fruit and transform it into powerful, yet silky, wines.  While it sits in the glass the flavors unfold, expand and become more luscious.  It has remarkable balance–you’d never guess it’s almost 15% alcohol.  The back label reveals it’s Cabernet Sauvignon.  The ‘One Point Five’ name is testimony to the joint efforts of the father and son team of John and Doug Shafer, as in one and a half generations.  The taste is classic Stag’s Leap District Napa Valley Cabernet. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2007

Chimney Rock, Stags Leap District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($65):  The class of Stags Leap District is apparent in this beautifully balanced velvety wine.  Plush texture is a hallmark of wines from this small valley within Napa Valley and this wine has it in spades.  To accompany the gorgeous texture is a lovely mixture of red and black fruit flavors, herbal notes and earthy nuances.  And it’s long. 94 Michael Apstein Feb 8, 2011

Pine Ridge, Stags Leap District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($75): Ripe and intense, this Cabernet-based wine (14 % of the blend comes from Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec) does not succumb to the ‘let’s extract everything’ school of winemaking, which means a panoply of other flavors–tobacco, herbs, even a little chocolate–are evident.  The finely textured tannins I associate with the Stags Leap District are apparent and lend a silky feel.  This is a polished, long wine. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2008

Shafer, Stags Leap District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “One Point Five” 2008 ($70):  The grapes for this wine come from Shafer’s famed Hillside Select vineyard and from another vineyard a couple miles away from the winery.  With 15.1 % stated alcohol, it delivers the classic “iron fist in a velvet glove” kind of power for which Shafer is known.  It also has the glossiness that defines Stags Leap and made those who tasted Shafer’s early releases ask how much Merlot was in the blend.  None then–and none now.  Bright acidity keeps it fresh and balances the concentrated cassis-like fruit flavors.  Best with hearty fare, such as grilled steak or lamb. 93 Michael Apstein May 17, 2011

Silverado Vineyards, Stags Leap District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Solo” 2003 ($78): This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon–hence the name, Solo–is a classically proportioned Napa Valley wine. The ripe black cherry and cassis flavors make the already supple tannins seemingly disappear.  This is definitely not a Bordeaux wannabe; rather it screams–as it should–Napa Valley Cabernet. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles (California) Rosé 2008 ($27): If you sipped this blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Counoise with your eyes closed, you’d think it was a light red wine.  But with eyes open, you get to appreciate its gorgeous pink hues. Strawberry-tinged flavors add to its initial impact.  Despite its stunning 14.5% stated alcohol, it’s balanced, refreshing and finishes dry. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

LaRochelle, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Rosé 2011 ($24):  With so many insipid rosés on the market, it’s a delight to discover this one from LaRochelle, a winery that focuses on Pinot Noir.  LaRochelle’s has a hint of tannin that reminds you it’s real wine and plenty of delicate floral and strawberry-like Pinot Noir character. Dry and lively, this is a no-brainer for summer seafood or salads. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012

Beckman, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Grenache Purisima Mountain Vineyard Rosé 2008 ($16): Beckman, a leading producer of Rhône blends, adds muscle and concentration to their Grenache for one of those blends by removing juice after a brief time of maceration–a process known as “bleeding” or saignée. The removed juice is light red–pink really–since it has had only brief skin contact.  Instead of discarding it, Beckman continues to ferment it to dryness producing this delightfully refreshing rosé.  With strawberry-tinged flavors, it has a touch more power than many rosés, making it closer to a light red wine. It is a good choice for this summer’s light meals. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

Toad Hollow, Sonoma County (California) Dry Rosé of Pinot Noir “Eye of the Toad” 2012 ($12): Pinot Noir is not the usual grape vintners use for rosé because it is expensive and somewhat fickle.  But it’s great that Toad Hollow makes one.  Fresh and spicy, this dry rosé is a terrific choice for summertime salads and other light fare.  An almost bitter finish is a surprising and welcome relief from the plethora of soft and innocuous rosés masquerading as wine.
87 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2013

Domain Chandon, California (United States) “Étoile” Brut NV ($38):  Just as Dom Perignon is Moët and Chandon’s top Champagne, Étoile is the luxury cuvée of Domaine Chandon, Moët’s California subsidiary.  A point of distinction, however, is that Étoile is an affordable luxury.  A seamless blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it has an uncanny elegance.  Not overly fruity, it’s both graceful and long with a gentle creaminess.  Certainly a superb choice for celebrations, don’t fail to consider drinking it with a meal.  It would go well with grilled or poached fish or chicken breasts in a cream sauce. 92 Michael Apstein May 31, 2011

Korbel, California (United States) “California Champagne” Brut Rosé NV ($10): Although not Champagne–the word on the label not withstanding–this California sparkling wine will be a crowd pleaser and has no reason to masquerade under that moniker.  Since Korbel’s wines stand on their own, I fail to see why they continue to use the crutch of ‘Champagne’ and perpetuate the misconception that they are ‘Champagne.’  Its lovely pink color is immediately eye-catching and its strawberry tinged flavors quickly capture the palate.  With just a hint of sweetness (more roundness than sugary) it’s a good straightforward easy-to-drink option to start the Thanksgiving–or any–meal. 85 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008

Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) “Royal Cuvée” Brut 2000 ($25): The Royal Cuvée, typically a blend of 2/3rds Pinot Noir and 1/3 Chardonnay, is Gloria Ferrer’s top sparkling wine and made entirely from their grapes.  Although the 2001 is the current release, the 2000, which won a Platinum metal at the 2008 Critics Challenge Wine Competition, is still readily available and an excellent choice for entertaining this holiday season.  Prolonged aging (more than 5 years) on the lees imparts a subtle toastiness and has tamed the shrieking acidity present in lesser sparkling wines.  The right balance of fruitiness and creaminess, coupled with softness makes it a ‘crowd pleasing’ aperitif. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 16, 2008

Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) Blanc de Noirs Brut NV ($22):  This delicately pink bubbly, a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, delivers a lovely balance of creaminess coupled with a hint of strawberries.  It’s soft enough for a pleasant before dinner toast, but has enough stuffing and verve for the table. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012

Schramsberg, North Coast (California) “J Schram” Rosé Brut 2004 ($130):  Schramsberg, a pioneer and long time leader in California sparkling wine, demonstrated in a blind tasting last year in New York that their Rosé sparkling wine stands with the best from around the world.  At that tasting, their 2000 Rosé was preferred over France’s prestige Rosé Champagnes, Roederer’s Cristal, Krug, Dom Perignon, Perrier Jouët and Veuve Clicquot’s Grande Dame, by a group of experienced journalists.  Schramsberg’s 2004 is a worthy successor to that wine.  Schramsberg selects only the very best batches for this wine, which they do not produce every year.  A seamless blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, part of which is fermented in stainless steel tanks and part in French oak barrels, their 2004 J Schram Brut Rosé delivers exotic spice that complement subtle red fruit flavors.  Seven years of aging on the lees helps explain why it’s so suave and polished. 96 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2011

Schramsberg, North Coast (California) “J Schram” Brut 2004 ($100):  J. Schram is the name Schramsberg gives to their top-of-the-line bottling.  Schramsberg, a pioneer and long time leader in California sparkling wine, has outdone themselves with this wine.  Recently released, the 2004 is a fabulous, full-bodied sparkling wine that combines power with great finesse.  Extended aging on the lees account for the yummy yeasty notes and incredible smoothness.  It’s world-class. 95 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2011

J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Late Disgorged Brut 2003 ($90): What a difference prolonged lees-aging makes! Suave and creamy, subtle biscuity notes come through. There’s not a rough edge to be found in this beauty. Tangy lemony elements keep this layered wine fresh. It’s refined, yet powerful, and very pleasing. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

J Vineyards and Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Brut 2001 ($25): Made roughly from equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and aged for five years on the yeast, this lovely sparkling wine has considerable complexity and fine balance.  The tiny bubbles dance across the palate to deliver nuances of freshly baked bread and a creamy smoothness. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 25, 2007

Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Robert Young Vineyard 2006 ($25): In the early 1970s, Chateau St. Jean was ahead of its time by highlighting and bottling wines from single vineyards.  They still do, and clearly demonstrate thereby that the French do not have a monopoly on the concept of terroir–a sense of distinctiveness because of the growing locale.  Although they characterize their Robert Young Chardonnay as a ‘leaner’ style, that’s only in comparison to their Chardonnay from their Belle Terre Vineyard (also reviewed this week.  I reviewed the 2006 Robert Young Chardonnay earlier this year, but do so again since I had the opportunity to taste it side-by-side with the 2006 Belle Terre Chardonnay).  There are plenty of ripe, mouth-filling, melon-like fruit flavors in the Robert Young Chardonnay, complemented by toasty, bacon fat-like nuances. Crispness in the finish prevents it from being overbearing. 91 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Robert Young Vineyard 2006 ($25): Richard Arrowood, Chateau St. Jean’s first winemaker, pioneered the idea of single vineyard bottlings in the 1970s.  Chateau St. Jean has been producing this Chardonnay ever since, and now–except for the Robert Young family–has exclusive use of the Chardonnay grapes from this vineyard.  The 2006, a rich, full-bodied wine, is filled with flavors reminiscent of tropical fruits.  Despite barrel-fermentation, it’s the fruit–not the oak–that speaks.  And with its ripe melon and pear-like flavors, there’s no mistaking its California origin.  Mellow acidity in the finish keeps it fresh. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009

Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Fumé Blanc Lyon Vineyard 2007 ($20): Quite distinct from Chateau St. Jean’s Petite Etoile (also reviewed this week), their Sauvignon Blanc from the Lyon Vineyard is a leaner, racier expression of that varietal.  They retain the bright fruit and herbal character by fermenting 90% of the wine in stainless steel tanks and preventing malolactic transformation, which retains apple-like malic acid. Including a touch of Semillon (5%) in the blend in addition to the portion of the wine that is barrel fermented adds a subtle creaminess and a glossy texture that plays off nicely against the citric acidity and verve. 90 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Lee Family Farm, Alta Mesa (Lodi, California) Verdelho Silverspoons Vineyard 2009 ($15):  The Lee family owns the highly regarded Morgan Winery in Monterey where they make lovely Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  But they also use the Lee Family Farm label for other wines.  There’s not a lot of Verdelho–a native Portuguese grape not to be confused with the Spanish Verdejo–planted in California, but after tasting this wine, maybe there should be.  An alluring aromatic wine, it has enough ripeness to give it pleasant weight, without being heavy.  Zippy acidity balances the aromatics and keeps it fresh.  It works equally well as an aperitif as on the table. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 21, 2010

Terre Rouge, Amador County (California) Viognier 2004 ($24): This, their current release, is unusually ‘old’ for Viognier, a grape and wine usually prized for its floral, springtime bouquet.  Nonetheless, a little bottle age has served it well.  The floral element has given way to slight nutty–almond-like–nuances and delicate peach-like flavors.  Good acidity in the finish prevents it from being tired.  It’s a good choice as an aperitif that could move seamlessly to the table for a light first course. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 2, 2008

Breggo Cellars, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Gris The Wiley Vineyard 2007 ($25): Made from purchased fruit, this wine is firmly embedded in the Pinot Gris–as opposed to Pinot Grigio–style.  This opulently textured wine comes across initially with appealing richness–almost sweetness–in part, no doubt, from the stated 15.6% alcohol.  Then the alcohol rears its other head with heat in the finish.  To be fair, most of my fellow tasters around the dinner table adored the wine, but I found the Port-like finish overpowered its virtues. 83 Michael Apstein Dec 2, 2008

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Beeswax Vineyard “Le Cigare Blanc” 2007 ($22): Blends of typical southern Rhône grapes are hard to get right because they sometimes come across as heavy.  Randall Grahm has avoided that pitfall with this blend of roughly two-thirds Roussanne and one-third Grenache Blanc.   A beautifully textured wine–it has a lanolin-like feel–has enticing apricot-like nuances and robust acidity.  It transports you to the southern Rhône without a trace of heaviness. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 1, 2009

J Vineyards & Winery, California (United States) Pinot Gris 2012 ($15): J is best known, of course, for their delectable sparkling wines. Often wineries that specialize in sparkling wines make lovely still wines from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, two of the same grapes often used in bubblies. This Pinot Gris came as a bit of a surprise to me, since it’s not a grape usually found in sparkling wines. Don’t be put off by its anonymous “California” appellation. They get grapes from vineyards in the Russian River Valley, Monterey County and the Sacramento River delta, which explains the broad California appellation. It’s what the winemaking team at J does with those grapes that matter here. This is a clear Pinot Gris–as opposed to the lighter Pinot Grigio–style, with stone fruit flavors and good depth. Infused with vibrancy and freshness, they’ve avoided the heaviness sometimes associated with this style.
90 Michael Apstein May 28, 2013

Joel Gott, California (United States) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($12):  This wine proves again that California can produce stylish wines and sell them at great prices.  The California appellation means the grapes could have come from anywhere withing the state.  In this instance, they came from Monterey, Lake County, Lodi and the Russian River Valley.  Judging from this wine, Gott is a superb blender putting together this straightforward and refreshing white.  Clean and bright, it delivers pleasant bite without screaming.  And you won’t scream at the price either.  It’s an exceptional bargain. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2013

McManus Family Vineyards, California (United States) Pinot Grigio 2011 ($11):  The more I taste wines from McManus Family vineyards, the more I like them.  Your first thought might be–and mine was–how can an $11 Pinot Grigio whose grapes come from anywhere in California be any good?  Well, it is.  There are delicate pear and green apple-like notes buttressed with enlivening acidity.  They haven’t overworked the wine to try to make it “important.”  Instead they’ve used restraint, made a stylish wine and priced it attractively. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012

Kendall Jackson, California (United States) Chardonnay “Vintner’s Reserve” 2007 ($12): With the current focus on wines from site specific sites, consumers often overlook those with a California appellation, blends made from grapes grown though out the state.  But this blend, made from Chardonnay primarily grown in Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties, shows that Randy Ullom, KJ’s winemaker, has great talent.  Fleshy tropical fruit flavors predominate and are buttressed by a touch of citric zing.  At 12 bucks, it’s a fine value. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2009

McManis Family Vineyards, California (United States) Pinot Grigio 2012 ($10): McManis’s 2012 Pinot Grigio is an extraordinary value.  Although it carries the California appellation, the grapes all came from their vineyards in Lodi, which perhaps helps explain why it has so much character.  It’s a real wine, with depth and body entirely unexpected at the price.  Weighing in at only 11.5% stated alcohol, it shows you can get flavor and substance without resorting to over ripe grapes.  When anyone finds a more satisfying Pinot Grigio for ten bucks, please let me know.
87 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2013

McManis Family Vineyards, California (United States) Viognier 2012 ($11): As with the McManis Pinot Grigio, despite the anonymous California appellation, all the grapes for this Viognier come from producer-owned vineyards in the River Junction appellation, one of California’s smallest.  And similar to their Pinot Grigio, their 2012 Viognier is an extraordinary value.  It has the white flower aromatics and delicate apricot-like notes of Viognier without a trace of heaviness that sometimes mars that varietal.  Punchy acidity and a subtle bitter finish just add to its appeal.  And it costs all of eleven dollars!
87 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2013

McManis Family Vineyards, California (United States) Viognier 2010 ($12):  Making Viognier is like walking a tightrope.  The grape needs to be ripe to obtain they lovely honeysuckle-like floral notes, but not so ripe as to wind up with a hot alcoholic wine.  McManis has pulled it off, and at a very attractive price.  Floral and pretty, it’s slightly lowish acidity makes it a good choice as a stand-alone aperitif or with spicy Asian fare.
87 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2011

Mirassou, California (United States) Moscato 2012 ($12): The Moscato craze shows no signs of abating, so expect to see more bottlings of that variety.  This one has the heady aromatics characteristic of the grape and more than the usual amount of sweetness without being cloying.
86 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2013

Pepi, California (United States) Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($11): This is a softer and gentler style of Sauvignon Blanc.  Those looking for the electrifying verve typically found in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc will be disappointed.  But those looking for a mildly pungent and round version of this varietal, which is appropriate for sipping as an aperitif, will be pleased.
86 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2013

Pepi, California (United States) Pinot Grigio 2012 ($10): This soft and round, almost slightly sweet Pinot Grigio is fine for sipping as an aperitif or with light summertime fare.
85 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2013

Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) Chardonnay 2010 ($18): Chardonnay is often a major component of sparkling wine. So you’d think that a producer, like Gloria Ferrer, who historically has focused on sparkling wine, could make great Chardonnay. In this case, you’d be right. They’ve made a lighter weight–a refreshingly low 13.5% stated alcohol–one without compromising on flavor or intensity. A subtle creamy toastiness harmonizes with bright acidity. The lighter body allows you to appreciate a long and precise finish. Let’s hope more California producers adopt this style.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2013

Nickel & Nickel, Carneros (California) Chardonnay Truchard Vineyard 2008 ($45):  Nickel & Nickel’s 2008 Truchard Chardonnay has a touch more ripeness than theirs from the Searby vineyard (also reviewed this week), reflecting different climatic conditions.  It’s a touch broader with slightly more toasty elements, without being heavy-handed.  The alcohol is slightly more apparent in the Truchard compared to the Searby, despite similarly stated levels (14.5%).  That said, it’s certainly not overdone.  The beauty of these two wines is that they exemplify slightly difference styles of Chardonnay.  Both are excellent. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Clos Pegase, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2009 ($24):  About half of Clos Pegase’s 285 acres of vines in Napa are planted to Chardonnay in this vineyard, named after owner Jan Shrem’s late wife.  The vines now are about 20 years old since the first plantings in 1991.  The Carneros region, located at the southern ends of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, is ideal for Chardonnay because breezes and fog from the San Pablo Bay keep the area cool, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and develop more flavor.   Ripeness and intensity balanced by crispness are evident but don’t assault your palate.  Vibrancy and length reflect the cooler climate.  It’s a sophisticated Chardonnay that outperforms many at twice the price.  His wife would be proud. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Merryvale, Carneros (California) Chardonnay 2005 ($35): Grapes for Merryvale’s Carneros Chardonnay come from both the Napa and Sonoma sections of the region. The nose immediately alerts you that a substantive wine is on the way. It’s rich and creamy flavors spread broadly across the palate, yet it remains refined.  Its balance and finesse–it’s not an ‘in-your-face’ kind of wine–belies the 14.5% alcohol.  Its freshness carries into the finish and amplifies its minerality.  It’s rare to find this stylish a wine for $35. 92 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

Michael Mondavi Family, Carneros (California) Chardonnay “Isabel Mondavi” 2011 ($25): The acorn doesn’t fall far from the tree.  Robert Mondavi, the legendary Napa Valley winemaker who did as much as anyone for putting California wines on the map, made stellar Chardonnays.  Judging from this one, so does his grandson, Rob, Jr, Michael Mondavi’s son.  Named for Rob’s mother, Isabel, this Chardonnay captures richness while being restrained.  It’s a hard combination to achieve, but when it works, as it does here, the wine sings.  The graceful interplay between subtle creaminess, a hint of buttered toast and lemony acidity is marvelous.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2013

Shafer, Carneros (California) Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch 2006 ($47): Shafer has gradually changed the style of their Chardonnay over the years to a crisper, tighter one that balances the ripe California fruit.  They use stainless steel ‘barrels’ that allow for lees stirring–which enhances freshness and lends creamy notes–without any oakiness.  Shafer blocks the malolactic fermentation to retain the lovely green-apple notes and allow the wine to develop over the years.  Tightly wound now, it has an engaging toastiness, wonderful balance and vibrancy.  Over the next year or so, it will become fleshier, but its acidity will keep it fresh. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

Shafer, Carneros (California) Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch 2008 ($48):  This Chardonnay is in keeping with Shafer’s other fine wines.  Big and bold, yet, as with their other wines, it’s not overblown.  It’s a hard line to walk, but the team at Shafer, led by winemaker Elias Fernandez, has done a brilliant job.  You sense the suaveness of oak aging without tasting the oak.  No question, it’s ripe and powerful, but there’s invigorating acidity that keeps it in balance.  The lip smacking acidity also amplifies and extends the finish.  Splurge and have it with lobster dipped in butter. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2011

Shafer Vineyards, Carneros (California) Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch 2009 ($48):  Shafer makes big, bold wines.  But they almost invariably pull it off because the finished products are balanced and elegant.  This, their single vineyard Chardonnay, fits that mold.  Lush and ripe, its rich fruit flavors are balanced by firm acidity.  For all its size (14.9% stated alcohol), it’s not over done, over-oaked, or oily.  Its citrus liveliness comes from cool Carneros-sourced grapes and their decision to prevent malolactic fermentation, which means the wine is crisper and less creamy than it would be if run through the standard treatment. 92 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2011

Silverado Vineyards, Carneros (California) Chardonnay Estate Grown 2011 ($25): The beauty of this Chardonnay is its restraint and persistence. Not an overblown powerhouse, this energetic wine combines apple-like notes and engaging smoky elements. Its citrus finish amplifies the enjoyment. Let’s hope more California producers emulate this style.
92 Michael Apstein May 28, 2013

Pine Ridge, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Dijon Clone” 2006 ($33): Dijon Clones of Chardonnay, imported from Burgundy, are earlier ripening and, hence, perfectly suited for cooler climates such as the Carneros region of Napa and Sonoma Valleys.  In this nicely balanced wine, the fruit elements marry nicely with toasty–but not overwhelming–oaky influences.  Not a heavy wine, it transmits its glorious, creamy stone fruit and citric flavors with finesse. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2008

Ram’s Gate, Carneros (California) Chardonnay Lee’s Secret Vineyard 2010 ($64): Ram’s Gate’s two single vineyard Chardonnays from Carneros show the diversity of sites even within that limited area. While the one from Sangiacomo Vineyards emphasizes power and richness, this one is more focused with lots of verve and energy to complement tropical fruit notes. It’s the raciest of their quartet of Chardonnays. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Saintsbury, Carneros (California) Chardonnay “Unfiltered” 2006 ($20): Saintsbury, a leader in Carneros, makes lovely Chardonnays that somehow are eclipsed by their justly well-known Pinot Noir.  But this Chardonnay reminds us why the grape–and the wine–is so popular.  Saintsbury employs all the techniques that can lead to overblown Chardonnay: lees stirring, malolactic fermentation and oak aging.  Yet they do it judiciously to produce a wine with finesse and delicacy.  You feel the effects of their techniques–a textural richness–without being clobbered by them.  The wine conveys a distinct creaminess buttressed and amplified by lemony acidity.  They’ve been bottling their Chardonnay without filtration for 15 years–well before ‘unfiltered’ became a buzzword–because they felt filtration stripped flavor from their wines.  Nothing was stripped here.  An excellent buy. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 2, 2008

Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2011 ($26): Wines like this explain the popularity of California Chardonnay.  It’s all about balance.  Sure, there’s richness here, but not too much of it.  And a touch of oak, but not too much of that either.  A lemony finish adds freshness and holds it all together.  Maybe their name inspires them, but it really is a “true Chard,” in the best sense.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2013

Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2007 ($24): Clos du Val’s Chardonnay is often overlooked because of the winery’s terrific reputation for red wines.   Which is a shame because this one is stylish and lush without being overdone.  It delivers a subtle lemon creaminess enlivened by a refreshing streak of acidity.   You feel the effect of oak–an engaging roundness–without tasting it.  Its persistent finish makes you smile. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2009

Pine Ridge, Carneros (California) Chardonnay “Dijon Clone” 2005 ($28): The Dijon Clone of Chardonnay is the one widely planted in Burgundy and accounts, in part, for white Burgundy’s more restrained style compared to California Chardonnay.  Pine Ridge melds the elegance and finesse of white Burgundy with the richness of California in this lush balanced wine.  A smooth creaminess with hints of toast coats the palate and an uplifting, bright finish keeps your interest. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 1, 2008

Ram’s Gate, Carneros (California) Chardonnay Sangiacomo Vineyard 2010 ($62): This big buttery style of California Chardonnay shows that grapes can get plenty ripe even in Carneros, an area cooled by the fog from San Pablo Bay. But don’t get me wrong. It’s not overdone. Rich and ripe, it’s excellent if you like that style of Chardonnay. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2005 ($22): Clos du Val has made a name for itself with their lush red wines made from Bordeaux grapes, which makes sense since their founder, Bernard Portet, was raised in Bordeaux.  I should no longer be surprised that they make excellent wine from non-Bordeaux grapes, such as Chardonnay, since they do it consistently.  Although I long for the days when Chardonnays had with less than 13% alcohol, this one is balanced, elegant, and not over-ripe, and has just the right combination of creamy toastiness and citric acidity. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2007

Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) Chardonnay 2008 ($18):  Similar to their elegant Gloria Ferrer 2008 Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week), this Chardonnay focuses on finesse rather than power.   The winemaking team has achieved a balance of fruit, subtle oak and vivacity in this very well priced Chardonnay.  Soft enough to be served as an aperitif, it does have enough bright acidity to complement food.  And a good buy to boot. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Alban Vineyards, Central Coast (California) Viognier 2010 ($25):  Alban was the first American winery devoted exclusively to Rhône varieties.  They continue with that focus and produce a stunning array, including this Viognier.  A fleshy wine and certainly not shy, this shows peachy overtones come that sare beautifully balanced and supported by zesty acidity.  Despite a stated 14.9% alcohol, it finishes fresh and clean, without a trace of heat.  Its opulence makes it a great match for spicy food. 92 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012

Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Chardonnay “Paragon” 2011 ($15): Though the grapes do not come from the famed Paragon Vineyard owned by the Niven family, Edna Valley Vineyard’s Chardonnay, dubbed “Paragon” is still well worth a recommendation.  It’s a polished Chardonnay with plenty of appealing richness that’s not overworked or overdone.  And it’s a steal.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2013

Bridlewood Estate Winery, Central Coast (California) Viognier Reserve 2007 ($24): The glorious floral nose and fresh peach-like flavors identify this wine immediately as Viognier.  Bridlewood, a Gallo label that specializes in Rhône wines, has done an admirable job with this difficult variety, which often can be blowsy and overdone.  Good acidity keeps it fresh and amplifies the honeysuckle-like flavors.  This is a wine to drink now, in the waning days of summer, to revel in its floral character before–like summer–it fades. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008

Clayhouse Wines, Central Coast (California) “Adobe White” 2011 ($14):  They forgot the kitchen sink in the blend of Viognier (49%), Sauvignon Blanc (26%), Grenache Blanc (19%) and Princess.  Yet, somehow it works.  A whiff of white flowers (from Viognier), a dash of vibrancy (Sauvignon Blanc speaking) gives way to an attractive, almost bitter finish.  Clean and bright, it’s an example of a simple, but satisfying, well-priced white. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 21, 2012

Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($15): Edna Valley Vineyard has struck a nice balance between the lime-infused New Zealand style of Sauvignon Blanc and the riper melony style found in warmer climates. It conveys a touch of lively grapefruit-like zing without being searing or aggressive and would be a good choice to enliven a take-out rotisserie chicken. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 1, 2013

Pietra-Santa Vineyards and Winery, Cienega Valley (California) Pinot Grigio “Amore” 2006 ($20): Located 25 miles east of Monterey Bay, Cienega Valley is not a very well-known AVA.  But if this wine is any indication, we should be hearing more from this area.  This rich and ripe–14.8% alcohol–wine fits the Pinot Gris profile rather than a light innocuous Pinot Grigio. Only a little heat in the finish intrudes on the lush peach and stone fruit flavors. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

Clarksburg Wine Company, Clarksburg (California) Chenin Blanc 2010 ($16):  For too long a stretch there were only a couple of producers of good Chenin Blanc in California, but this picture is starting to change. Clarksburg’s Chenin, for example, is essentially dry, with a faint perception of fruity sweetness tempered by refreshing crispness on the finish. Splendid as an aperitif, excellent with food, this is a Chenin Blanc well worth seeking out. (The Clarksburg Wine Company also makes an excellent higher end Chenin that it calls “VS”–i.e., Vouvray Style.)
90 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2013

Herzog, Clarksburg (California) Chenin Blanc Late Harvest 2005 ($20): So wonderfully balanced with zippy acidity, it’s hard to believe the residual sugar in this wine weighs in at 15%.  The flavors dance across the palate.  Sweet, yes, but by no means cloying, Herzog’s Late Harvest Chenin Blanc is the perfect choice with a fresh fruit dessert.  Better yet, have a glass in place of a traditional dessert. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2007

Dry Creek Vineyard, Clarksburg (California) Dry Chenin Blanc Wilson Ranch 2008 ($12):  Dry Creek Vineyard consistently produces a delightful Chenin Blanc, one of California’s best.  The 2008 is no exception.  Delicate and fruity, without being sweet, its vibrant acidity awakens the palate.   You needn’t wait for a summer picnic to enjoy this wine, try it with Asian cuisine this winter–you’ll think spring is around the corner. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 9, 2010

Dry Creek Vineyard, Clarksburg (California) Dry Chenin Blanc 2007 ($12): Year in and year out Dry Creek Vineyards makes a balanced refreshing Chenin Blanc that marries subtle melon-like flavors with crispness.  It has nice weight and balance, with a softness, rather than sweetness.  It would be a good choice for Asian food, as a pre-dinner aperitif or with roast pork. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2008

Dry Creek Vineyard, Clarksburg (California) Chenin Blanc 2007 ($12): Year in and year out Dry Creek Vineyard makes a balanced, refreshing Chenin Blanc that marries subtle melon-like flavors with crispness.  It has nice weight and balance, with a softness, rather than sweetness.  It would be a good choice for Asian food, as a pre-dinner aperitif or with roast pork. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2008

Sbragia Family Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Home Ranch 2007 ($26): Now that Ed Sbragia, Beringer’s legendary winemaker, has retired from that position, he is devoting more time to his family’s endeavor where his son, Adam, is the winemaker.  This big but balanced wine reflects the ripe Dry Creek Valley fruit.  An engaging buttery component complements pear and melon-like flavors.  Good acidity holds this rich wine together and keeps it lively. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 9, 2009

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Fumé Blanc DCV3 2006 ($25): The fruit for this wine comes from the first vineyard that founder David Stare planted to Sauvignon Blanc in 1972.  It’s a more polished and refined style of Sauvignon Blanc than is normally encountered from California. It has a suppleness normally associated with inclusion of Semillon in the blend–it’s a 100% Sauvignon Blanc–or the use of oak aging–it’s 100% stainless steel fermented and aged.  The pleasant bite of Sauvignon Blanc is subdued and complemented by a fleshy roundness.  It’s a lovely and unique style of Sauvignon Blanc that Dry Creek likely achieves because of the age of the vines. 90 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Taylor’s Vineyard Musqué 2006 ($25): The Musqué clone of Sauvignon Blanc produces a rounder, less pungent, more perfumed style of Sauvignon Blanc. Dry Creek Vineyard’s rendition retains the recognizable punch of Sauvignon Blanc, while overlaying a mellow, almost Chardonnay-like creaminess.  Reminiscent of a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, it has lovely texture with uplifting acidity in the finish that keeps it lively. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 17, 2009

Zocker, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Grüner Veltliner Paragon Vineyard 2012 ($20): There’s not a lot of Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s most popular white grape, planted in the United States, which makes Zocker an oddball winery indeed, since they produce only Riesling and Grüner Veltliner (and the latter represents over three-quarters of their production).  But it appears that they are onto something.  Grüner is a wonderfully versatile wine, pairing with a wide variety of foods, because of its racy minerality.  And Zocker’s is a perfect example.  It has unusual richness for Grüner, but Paragon Vineyard’s proximity to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean imbues the wine with palate awakening acidity and keeps it balanced.  It took a Gold Medal at the 2013 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 9, 2013

Carpe Diem, Edna Valley (California) Chardonnay Firepeak Vineyard 2004 ($21): Many California wineries could take a lesson from this Chardonnay and turn down the volume.  It has plenty of ripe creaminess without being overblown.  That style actually allows more flavor to emerge. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006

Six Sigma, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc Michael’s Vineyard 2006 ($20): Named after one of proprietor Kaj Ahlmann’s children, this 100% barrel-fermented wine is a gorgeous example of Sauvignon Blanc.  The oak aging adds a slight creamy texture and breadth to the wine without obliterating the lively aspect of the varietal.  It’s a hard line to walk–often the result is a Chardonnay wannabe–but Malbec and his team pulls it off, achieving a subtle and harmonious effect. 92 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

Six Sigma, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc Rooster Vineyard 2006 ($20): Although Six Sigma doesn’t own the Rooster Vineyard, the farming is supervised by David Weiss whose Bella Vista Farming Company owns it, assuring that the care the vines receive is identical to their own vineyards.  Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel vats, the crisp, clean, but not grassy signature of Sauvignon Blanc is apparent.  It conveys a slight pungency characteristic of the varietal along with green apple-like notes without the herbal, sometimes piercing quality emblematic of many Sauvignon Blanc.  Its brightness makes it an especially good foil for simple seafood. 90 Michael Apstein May 6, 2008

Wattle Creek, Mendocino (California) Chardonnay 2004 ($26): Established by an Australian couple, Christopher and Kristine Williams, in 1994, Wattle Creek consists of two chunks of vineyards, one in Alexander Valley and one in the Yorkville Highlands section of Mendocino. This Chardonnay, from their Yorkville Highlands fruit, has a classy creaminess and brightness. It delivers richness without being overdone. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006

Benziger Family Winery, Mendocino County (California) Sauvignon Blanc Casey’s Block 2006 ($29): Benziger makes fabulous Sauvignon Blanc.  This one, from one of their many certified biodynamic vineyards, straddles the line between the piercing quality of New Zealand versions and a gussied-up Chardonnay wannabe.  It conveys an engaging grapefruit-like edginess without being shrill, and simultaneously manages to maintain a lovely texture without losing the signature Sauvignon Blanc punch. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008

Patianna, Mendocino County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($18): Patti Fetzer is continuing the tradition her mother and father, Kathleen and Barney, started when they purchased their Mendocino County property in the late 1950s.  This harmonious wine, made from biodynamically grown grapes, is a blend of two clones of Sauvignon Blanc, one of which, the Musque, adds a lovely creamy texture.  The wine delivers a mouth-filling suaveness without losing the distinctive pungency of Sauvignon Blanc.  It could make skeptics believe in the virtue of biodynamic grape growing. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008

Toad Hollow, Mendocino County (California) Chardonnay “Francine’s Selection” Un-oaked 2009 ($14):  The unoaked Chardonnay trend is a welcome one that allows the pendulum to swing far away from oily, oaky California Chardonnay.  Sadly, many “unoaked” wines are vapid and inadvertently become an excellent argument for oak aging.  Not this one.  Zingy citrus elements balance melony fruit notes.  Its stature is apparent in its great length.  It’s a delicate, but not a vapid, wine that’s easy to recommend. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011

Wattle Creek, Mendocino County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14): Here’s a Sauvignon Blanc that while creamier than many, still maintains an invigorating touch of the Sauvignon Blanc bite.  Its creamy suaveness is a nice counterpoint without obliterating its varietal character.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 28, 2006

Toad Hollow, Mendocino County (California) Unoaked Chardonnay “Francine’s Selection” 2011 ($14): Those looking for a voluptuous Chardonnay should look elsewhere.  But those consumers searching for a crisp and mouth-cleansing wine need to look no further. Bright and pure, this Chardonnay conveys lip-smacking Granny Smith apple-like freshness.
87 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2013

Talbott, Monterey (California) Chardonnay “Diamond T Estate” 2002 ($65): True to a terroir-driven wine, Talbott opts to relegate the grape name to the back label while emphasizing the vineyard name on the front label. A marvelous wine, this is one of the best California Chardonnays I’ve tasted. It has intriguing earthiness to accompany the creamy ripeness. Not overdone, its beauty lies in elegance rather than hit-you-over-the-head power. The long, persistent finish confirms that this is something special. 96 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006

Morgan, Monterey (Monterey County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($15):  I remember how surprised I was at the quality of Morgan’s Sauvignon Blanc the first time I sampled it because it was from a winery known for its terrific single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Well, 10 years later, they still make a very alluring example of the varietal.  A blend of two clones of Sauvignon Blanc, a touch (10%) of Semillon and a hint of aging in new barrels impart an attractive roundness that acts as a foil for–and enhances–the bracing pungent character for which the varietal is known.  Reminiscent of fine white Bordeaux more than an edgy example from New Zealand, it would be a good choice for grilled swordfish as summer comes to a close. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010

Clos La Chance, Monterey (California) Chardonnay “Unoaked” 2008 ($15): Most of the so-called “unoaked” Chardonnays would be better if they spent a little time in an oak barrel because they are so lean and tight.  This one is an exception. It may not convey the minerality of Chablis–the ultimate example of unoaked Chardonnay–but it’s alive with Granny Smith apple-like vibrancy coupled with pleasing length.  It’s a delightfully refreshing summertime wine–at an equally delightful price. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 14, 2009

Talbott Vineyards, Monterey (California) Chardonnay Diamond T Estate “Cuvée Audrey” 2003 ($75): The wine for Cuvée Audrey–Audrey was Robb Talbott’s mother–comes from what they consider their best lots from their Diamond T Estate Vineyard.  This powerhouse–14.8% alcohol–Chardonnay has ripe tropical fruit and buttery flavors that will please fans of the super rich style of Chardonnay. 86 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

Talbott, Monterey County (California) Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2003 ($40): Now, with a 20-year track record, most everyone will agree that Talbott’s Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay is surely one of California’s best examples of that varietal. Like many of the world’s great wines, it takes a little time to unfold. Even though it’s aged for over two years before sale-the 2003 is their current release-it still would benefit from another six months-or an hour or two of breathing-for its engaging combination of ripe fruit, minerals and toasty elements to come together. When they do, it’s a glorious wine. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 22, 2006

Bernardus Winery, Monterey County (California) Chardonnay 2004 ($21): It’s ironic that Bernardus, founded by Ben Pons with a vision of making top flight red wine, makes such good white wine as well. Their Chardonnay is consistently balanced-not overdone nor overly oaky-and refined. Their 2004 follows that tradition. Creamy and classy, it’s a pleasure to taste-and to drink. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006

Ca’ del Solo, Monterey County (California) Albarino 2008 ($20): This wine is one of the biggest tasting surprises of the year.  Who would have imagined that Albarino, a grape whose home is Galicia, in the northwest corner of Spain, would do well in Monterey County.  Well, apparently Randall Grahm, the iconoclastic winemaker and owner of Bonny Doon and Ca’ del Solo, did.  Electrifying dry, abundant citric—lime—flavors burst forth from this lively wine.  Not over-ripe or heavy, it would be a refreshing complement to steamed clams or other simple seafood this summer. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009

Morgan, Monterey County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($15): Morgan’s excellent array of Pinot Noir overshadows their consistently good Sauvignon Blancs.  Consequently, consumers benefit because this crisp wine delivers more than its price suggests.  Not as electrifying a Sauvignon Blanc as some others, Morgan’s still has plenty of verve to balance its broad palate of herbal and citric notes.  A lovely texture and a long finish are pleasant surprises for a wine at this price. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

Bernardus Winery, Monterey County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2004 ($14): Bernardus makes two Sauvignon Blancs, this one and a single vineyard one from Griva Vineyard (previously reviewed by Gerald Boyd). This one, from a blend of fruit grown in Monterey, gets my vote for best value Sauvignon Blanc from California because of its balance of bite and creaminess. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006

Ca’del Solo, Monterey County (California) Muscat 2007 ($17): Deliciously floral, the first sniff and sip of this wine produces an experience akin to walking into a florist shop. The aromas deceive you into thinking it’s a sweet wine, but the supporting acidity keeps it fresh and lively.   The result is refreshing springtime, not cloying sweetness.  It works well as a great aperitif that you could carry to the table to accompany roast pork. 88 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

Morgan, Monterey County (California) Chardonnay “Metallico” 2010 ($20):  Fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel, this is Morgan’s unoaked Chardonnay.  This bright wine delivers straightforward clean green apple-like flavors and a zippy edge.  Consumers looking for richness in their Chardonnay will be disappointed, but those seeking a lighter, brisker wine will find it a good match with simply prepared seafood. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2011

Bridlewood Estate, Monterey County (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2011 ($15): This soft and plush Chardonnay focuses on bright ripe fruit flavors.  Clean and round, it is a fine choice as an aperitif in addition to the brightening a take-out rotisserie chicken.
86 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013

Hess Collection, Mt. Veeder (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2009 ($35):  One might assume that a Chardonnay from a mountain appellation would be powerful since Cabernet Sauvignons made from mountain-grown grapes are big and muscular.  Thankfully, this one, from the Hess Collection, is not.  Tightly wound at this stage, it conveys a fabulous stony undertone.  As it unfolds in the glass, a creamy minerality and citrus-tinged finish emerges.  Long and precise, it’s the antithesis over the overblown over-oaked California Chardonnay. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Grgich Hills Cellar, Napa (California) Fumé Blanc 2003 ($21): Grgich has a great, well deserved, reputation for stylish Cabernets and Chardonnays. It turns out he makes equally delicious wine from Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes come from their American Canyon vineyard, southeast of Carneros, where the wind helps slow the maturation and allows more flavors to develop. Grgich achieves considerable complexity this wine by aging in 3-year old, instead of new, oak barrels. It’s a chewy wine with hints of pears, great supporting acidity, and no grassy under ripe flavors. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 1, 2005

Far Niente, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2009 ($50):  The 2009 Far Niente Chardonnay is a gorgeous example of what California can do with this varietal.  It shows the lush ripeness that Napa Valley provides without sacrificing critical freshness—acidity–that keeps the wine interesting.  Subtle fruit flavors followed by citrus notes and mineral nuances emerge as the wine sits in the glass.  Oak aging lends a suave patina without suffocating the underlying flavors. 95 Michael Apstein Jun 1, 2010

Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2009 ($42): You’d expect Grgich to make stunning Chardonnay.  After all, Mike Grgich made the Chardonnay when he was winemaker at Chateau Montelena that won the now infamous 1976 Paris Tasting, getting more votes than high-priced Burgundy Grand Crus.  And true to form, Grgich’s 2009 Chardonnay is a sumptuous, well-balanced wine.  It’s difficult to make a rich and toasty wine that doesn’t tire or isn’t in your face.  But the Grgich team has done it—again.  It truly has power and grace. Uplifting acidity keeps it fresh.  Buy it.  You won’t be disappointed.  95 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2011

Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California) Fumé Blanc 2011 ($30): Mike Grgich made his reputation with Chardonnay–specifically the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that surprised the world at the now famous 1976 Paris tasting when a group of French judges ranked it ahead of some very prestigious white Burgundies. But Grgich’s talents don’t stop with Chardonnay. The team there makes stunning red wines–Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel–and other whites, such as this stellar Sauvignon Blanc, which they label Fumé Blanc. This is a bright and lively wine conveying a lovely hint of citrus reminiscent of grapefruit rind. The flavors dance across the palate in large measure due to a welcome 13.2% stated alcohol. They’ve turned down the volume so you hear more of the notes. I’ve always liked Grgich’s Fumé Blanc, but this could be their best ever.
95 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2013

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Fumé Blanc 2007 ($30): This incredible wine gets my vote as California’s best Sauvignon Blanc.  Grgich has created a magical combination of the pungency in Sauvignon Blanc with great minerality.  A touch of barrel fermentation, oak aging and lees contact imparts an amazing texture and length without obliterating the spark of Sauvignon Blanc.  As with all great wine, it becomes more complex with time in the glass, as attractive smokiness and flinty aspect emerges.  And Grgich’s reputation doesn’t even come from Sauvignon Blanc. 95 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009

Antica, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2009 ($35):  While Antinori, one of Italy’s greatest producers, makes some white wine, their reputation has been built on their magnificent reds.  So it’s a real testimony to their team’s ability that Antica, short for Antinori in California, produces a marvelous Chardonnay in addition to their elegant Napa Valley red wine (previously reviewed).   I hate to describe wines by what they’re not, but in this case I will.  This one is not overdone, over oaked, over ripe or flamboyant. Classy and harmonious, its subtly ripe fruit flavors are amplified and offset by uplifting acidity.  It’s the kind of wine you want to drink with a meal, not just taste. 94 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2011

Cakebread Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($24): Cakebread Cellars, one of the handfull of California wineries that’s been around for 40 years, is rightly known for their intense Cabernets.  Nevertheless, I’ve always been partial to their Sauvignon Blanc, and their stunning 2012 reminds me why.  It offers seamless marriage of delicate pungency and suaveness.  The electrifying shake-you-by-the-lapels of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is replaced by a quiet but persistent creamy richness accented with spice.  Delicate herbal notes–almost a mintiness–appear in the finish and linger on the palate.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2013

Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California) Fume Blanc 2010 ($30):  Grgich Hills has a slightly different interpretation of Sauvignon Blanc than many others, which always makes me reach for it when I see it on a wine list.  Theirs is slightly rounder, less edgy and frankly, more complex.  The interplay of the pleasantly aggressive side of Sauvignon Blanc with the wine’s richly textured body keeps you coming back for more.  A touch of intriguing spice makes it even more captivating. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2011

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Estate 2010 ($42):  This is classic Grgich Chardonnay — rich and crisp simultaneously.  Its quality and stature should come as no surprise since Mike Grgich made the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that bested the French white Burgundies at the now famous 1976 Paris tasting that put California wines on the map.  Pineapple notes and spice linger on the palate.  It has plenty of fruit, but paradoxically it doesn’t come across as a fruit-laden bomb.  This is a vibrant and graceful Chardonnay. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2013

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Fumé Blanc 2009 ($30):  This wine and Mary Edwards’ (also reviewed this week) show the wonderful diversity of styles of Sauvignon Blanc.  Grgich focuses on the mineraly aspect the grape can deliver, more in the style of Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, than Bordeaux.  Edgy, without screaming, is has an alluring pungency characteristic of the grape with a tantalizing chalky underpinning.  This is another gorgeous example–although with a very different profile–of Sauvignon Blanc.  For those learning about the spectrum of this varietal, buy a bottle of each, invite some friends over and have a tasting. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 22, 2011

Antica, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2010 ($35):  It should come as no surprise that Antinori, the legendary Italian wine family that has been in the business for over 600 years, should be able to make a stylish Chardonnay in Napa.  Antinori’s wines, whether they’re from Tuscany, Umbria, Puglia or Washington State, are known for balance and finesse.  And so is this Napa Valley Chardonnay.  Not a rich or boisterous Chardonnay, the 2010 Antica delivers subtle creaminess and crisp apple-like nuances.  Its balance and length keeps you coming back again and again.  A wine to drink, not just taste. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2006 ($42): The 2006 is a typical Grgich Hills style of tightly-wound Chardonnay whose charms begin to unfold while the wine sits in the glass.  Only one third of the wine was fermented and aged in new oak barrels, which helps explain its attractive restraint.  It has great brightness and vivacity in part because the lack of malolactic fermentation maintains high levels of crisp malic (green apple-like) acid.  Those seeking voluptuous ripe tropical fruit flavored Chardonnay should avoid this linear and focused wine. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009

Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Reserve 2005 ($40): This stylish Chardonnay delivers a restrained minerality, not just ripe fruit flavors.  The fruit is there, but the class of the wine comes through with its suave and focused lemon cream nuances that persist seemingly forever.  It improves as it sits in the glass. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

Franciscan Oakville Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2005 ($16): This is a style of Chardonnay other California producers should emulate.  The modest (by today’s standards) 13.5% alcohol does not hit you over the head.  Rather, its subtle, not overwhelming, toasty creaminess buttressed by uplifting acidity in the finish means you can actually drink and enjoy this wine with a meal.  This style of wine reminds you why Chardonnay is so popular. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007

Frog’s Leap, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($20): My favorite wine at the recently concluded 11th Annual International Wines for Oysters Competition held at Washington’s Old Ebbitt Grill, the 2005 Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc had an engaging creaminess and minerality atop the attractive citric bite emblematic of that grape. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006

Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc Miller Ranch 2005 ($18): It’s hard to know how Silverado managed to craft this nicely balanced harmonious wine.  It has a lovely fleshiness and mouth feel without losing the zingy character or cutting edginess of Sauvignon Blanc. The usual techniques winemakers use to achieve that kind of balance with Sauvignon Blanc is to include some Semillon in the blend–think white Bordeaux–or to have contact with wood.  This wine sees no wood–all fermentation and aging is done in stainless steel tanks–and has only 1% Semillon in the blend.  Maybe the 1% makes that big a difference (after all, a pinch of salt or a drop of Balsamic vinegar transforms many a sauce) or maybe the location of the vineyard produces exceptionally well-balanced fruit.  It’s a style other California wineries would be smart to emulate. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2007

St. Supéry, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($20):  Winemaker Michael Scholz has walked the line beautifully with this easy to recommend Sauvignon Blanc.  Neither lean and shrill nor gussied up with oak to resemble a Chardonnay, this Sauvignon Blanc has a deft roundness and an exhilarating spicy–almost peppery–component.  An enlivening grapefruit-like zing gives it freshness.  For a varietal that’s all over the map, this one is right on target. 91 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Karia” 2009 ($34):  Although Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is best known for their Cabernets–their 1973 Cask 23 Cabernet won the famous 1976 Paris tasting–they have been making very good Chardonnays since the late 1990s.  Their 2009 Karia, a blend from a variety of Napa Valley vineyards, delivers ripe fruit, without being overdone.  Inclusion of fruit from the cool Carneros region helps explain its vibrancy.  In keeping with Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ style, it’s a graceful, finesse-filled wine. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2011

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($25): Some Semillon in the blend softens the edges of the Sauvignon Blanc without obliterating its pungency and varietal character.  The blend–and perhaps a touch of fermentation and/or oak aging–gives the wine a certain Graves-like complexity and creaminess. Those seeking the electrifying New Zealand style of Sauvignon Blanc will be disappointed, but those who avoid California Sauvignon Blanc because of overly herbaceous or over-ripe flavors will be pleasantly surprised. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2007

Hess, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Su’skol Vineyard 2005 ($25): A gracious balance of toastiness and creaminess without being over-the-top makes this a stylish wine.  Hess has turned down the volume allowing vibrant citric flavors to complement the riper–but not over ripe–components. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007

Merryvale, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc “Starmont” 2006 ($16): Merryvale has crafted a lovely wine with an all-too-elusive balance of varietal pungency and nuances of creaminess.  Not overwrought, and reminiscent of a Graves-style wine, it is suave and long. A lively, bright finish extends your enjoyment. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2007

Merryvale, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Starmont” 2007 ($20): This racy style of Chardonnay is quite appealing. Instead of in-your-face buttery excess, it delivers hints of creamy notes, understated bright apple and pear-like fruit flavors and oaky nuances.  Its citric zing persists into the finish and keeps it lively.  It has more character than many Chardonnays twice its price. 90 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009

Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Reserve 2004 ($35): Mondavi’s 2004 Reserve Chardonnay was unaffected by the recent turmoil and sale of Robert Mondavi Winery.  In Mondavi’s long tradition, the Reserve Chardonnay is intense, yet graceful.  It takes a few minutes in the glass to open, but once it does, a subtle creamy toastiness fills the palate.  The dominant fruit flavors–lemons and melons–reinforce its California origins, but its elegance and balance speak of Burgundy. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 13, 2007

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard and Winery, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($30): Spottswoode has a well-deserved reputation for their exemplary Cabernet Sauvignon.  They make equally stylish and balanced Sauvignon Blanc.  They achieve a more gentle, broad, Graves-like style (as opposed to piercing New Zealand-style) by moderating the inherent pungency of Sauvignon Blanc grape by blending it with Sauvignon Musque (a clone of Sauvignon Blanc) and judicious barrel fermentation and aging.  The result is a nicely textured, full-bodied wine that maintains bright acidity and verve. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 13, 2007

Twomey Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($25):  I’ve always been impressed by Twomey’s stylish Merlot and was unaware they produced Sauvignon Blanc until I sampled this one.  It’s clear now that their talents are not limited solely to Merlot.  Pleasantly pungent, it has ever so slightly rounded edges and an uplifting citrus finish.  It’s broader than many Sauvignon Blanc, but definitely not a Chardonnay wannabe.  It’s a difficult line to walk, but Twomey has done it. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 9, 2010

Hall, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($20): This 100% Sauvignon Blanc stainless steel tank-fermented wine has great body and depth without losing the signature pungency and vibrancy of the varietal.  No Chardonnay wannabe, Hall’s Sauvignon Blanc has lovely balance and texture. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008

Hess, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc Allomi Vineyard 2008 ($15):  This balanced Sauvignon Blanc stood out at the recently concluded San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition–and won a Gold Medal–because of the interplay of herbal notes and an attractively pungent citric zing.  It has the vibrant mouth-cleansing signature of Sauvignon Blanc without being piercing or aggressive.  The 14.5% stated alcohol rears its head with a slightly hot finish. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2010

St. Supéry, Napa Valley (California) White Meritage “Virtú” 2006 ($28): A classic white Bordeaux blend–50/50 Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon—St. Supery’s Virtú combines the best of those grapes.  Sauvignon Blanc supplies a lively pungency, which complements the ripe melon nuances and lanolin-like texture imparted by Semillon.  Round and graceful, it’s a nicely priced elegant white wine. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 11, 2009

Chappellet, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2010 ($32):  Made from grapes grown in the coolest part of Napa overlooking San Pablo Bay, this Chardonnay still conveys plenty of ripeness and concentration.  Creamy tones complement the ripe melon-like notes.  Heat in the finish from its 14.9%-stated alcohol detracts from this otherwise lovely bottling. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 3, 2012

Hess Collection, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc Allomi Vineyard 2010 ($16):  This bright and refreshing wine delivers everything you want in Sauvignon Blanc.  Zesty grapefruit nuances mingle with subtle herbal notes.  In this perky wine, nothing is overdone nor in your face, which means it’s lovely to drink as well as taste. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012

Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) Fumé Blanc 2006 ($20): Robert Mondavi invented the name Fumé Blanc following a visit to the village of Pouilly Fumé in the Loire Valley as an alternative name for wine made from Sauvignon Blanc, the sole grape permitted in that village.  Although his versions never had the minerality associated with fine Pouilly-Fumé, they were always–and are still judging from this one–nicely balanced.  The hallmark of Mondavi’s Fumé Blanc is a rounder, friendlier style of Sauvignon Blanc as opposed to cutting, piercing version.  Mondavi manages to soften the edginess characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc without destroying it.  The 2006 fits that mold with broad flavors in the middle and nuances of melons to complement a distinct citric bite. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2008

St. Supery, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($21): This is a refreshingly pungent style of Sauvignon Blanc, not a gussied Chardonnay wannabe.  Its piercing, herbal edginess and citric finish makes it a good choice for cuisine with an Asian or Southwestern accent. 86 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

St. Supery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Oak Free” 2007 ($25): Unoaked Chardonnay is the natural response to the public’s increasing aversion to big oak-laden Chardonnay.  It’s an excellent idea that works best when the grapes come from vineyards with old vines or distinctive geology, either of which imparts unique character to the wine.  Often, as with this bottling, the wine is perfectly fine — nothing offensive — but lacks character.  St. Supéry’s version is crisp and lively, but comes across a bit hollow.  There’s nothing wrong with it; it’s just not distinctive. 84 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2008

St. Supéry, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Oak Free” 2007 ($25): Unoaked Chardonnay is the natural response to the public’s increasing aversion to big oak-laden Chardonnay.  It’s an excellent idea that works best when the grapes come from vineyards with old vines or distinctive geology, either of which imparts unique character to the wine.  Often, as with this bottling, the wine is perfectly fine-nothing offensive-but lacks character.  St. Supéry’s version is crisp and lively, but comes across a bit hollow.  There’s nothing wrong with it; it’s just not distinctive. 84 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2008

Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Reserve 2006 ($40): Ripe and rich, this wine will appeal to many consumers.  But in my mind a Reserve wine, especially one like this with a stunning heritage and track record, needs more than just ripeness and power.  A little heavy-handed, it lacks the complexity and vibrancy that have been the hallmark of Mondavi’s Reserve Chardonnays of the past. 83 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2008

Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) Fumé Blanc To-Kalon Vineyard 2006 ($40): Unlike Mondavi’s beautifully balanced regular Fumé Blanc (reviewed this week), his reserve bottling from the famed To-Kalon vineyard, which is usually a fabulous wine, is hot and disjointed.  This big style Sauvignon Blanc delivers plenty of power, alcohol and heat, but little of the zestiness and freshness characteristic of the grape.  This is a classic example of how a non-reserve wine is sometimes a better choice than the reserve bottling. 80 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2008

Benziger Family Winery, North Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($12): Pleasantly pungent, this wine’s style puts it nicely between the overly aggressive school of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay-wannabe school.  Its bright acidity means you won’t tire of it during a meal.  An excellent value. 89 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Steelhead, North Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($10): Steelhead has fashioned a much softer style of Sauvignon Blanc than is usual, with tropical fruit notes and a hint of citrus in the finish. It’s easy going enough to sip as an aperitif and would be a good choice for take-out sushi as well.
85 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013

Trefethen Vineyards, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2005 ($30): Janet Trefethen says they don’t want to make a ‘wine you pour over popcorn.’  And they haven’t.  Those who favor flashy Chardonnays should look elsewhere.  Creamy and delectable, Trefethen’s is one you’ll savor with the entire meal. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Trefethen Vineyards, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Riesling “Dry” 2006 ($20): Trefethen’s Riesling consistently has vibrancy all too often lacking in California Riesling.  Bright, uplifting acidity, especially in the finish, balances Riesling’s inherent fruitiness. Have a glass as an aperitif and take it to the table for the first course. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2007

Flora Springs, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Sauvignon Blanc “Soliloquy” 2007 ($27): Flora Springs has made a wonderful Soliloquy–100% Sauvignon Blanc—in 2007.  They walk the line between herbaceousness and mellowness, capturing a bit of both, in this beautifully proportioned wine.  Lively and refreshing, it has a seamless quality that makes you come back for another sip.  Anyone who thinks Napa Valley is not the right place for Sauvignon Blanc needs to taste this wine. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 11, 2009

Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Fumé Blanc 2011 ($32): Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc for his version of Sauvignon Blanc because he wanted consumers to think of Pouilly-Fumé, an appealing style of Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire.  The 2011 version is more reminiscent of a grand Bordeaux white with a delectable creamy pungency than a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire.  But with its ripeness it’s clearly from Napa Valley, Oakville in fact.  Like Mr. Mondavi himself, it’s elegant, but persistent, which makes it a delight to drink now.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2013

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles (California) “Esprit de Beaucastel” Blanc 2007 ($40): The Perrin family, owners of one of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s stellar properties, Chateau Beaucastel, and Robert Haas, founder of the import company Vineyard Brands, joined forces to establish Tablas Creek to produce Rhône-style wines in California.  This one, their signature white wine, emulates a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape with its blend of Roussanne (68%), Grenache Blanc (22%) and Picpoul Blanc.  A richer and larger version of its French counterpart, it retains freshness, avoiding the pitfall of coming across as heavy.  Its lanolin-like texture supports its appealing spiced honey flavors.  With remarkable balance and length, it is one of the most successful Rhône-style white wines from California. 92 Michael Apstein May 19, 2009

Clayhouse Estate, Paso Robles (California) Cuvée Blanc 2010 ($23):  A blend of equal parts Grenache Blanc and Viognier, Clayhouse’s Estate Cuvée has an appealing floral character that expands the richness and subtle peach-like flavor of Grenache Blanc.  Clayhouse has captured the ripeness and density of these white Rhône varieties without sacrificing invigorating acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012

Halter Ranch, Paso Robles (California) “Côtes de Paso Blanc” 2011 ($24):  This typical Southern Rhône blend–Grenache Blanc (33%), Roussanne (26%) Picpoul Blanc (20%), Marsanne (12%) and Viognier–fools you because its white flower aromatics prepare you for a sweet white, but the finish is clean and crisp.  With none of the heaviness that can plague white wines made fromsouthern Rhône grapes, it’s easy to enjoy it throughout a meal.  It works equally well as a stand-alone aperitif, with full-flavored spicy Asian cuisine, or with sushi. 90 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles (California) “Côte de Tablas Blanc” 2007 ($25): Many consumers avoid white wines–either French or Californian–made from grapes associated with the Rhône Valley because they can be marred by a heaviness.  This one is not.  This blend of Viognier (38%), Marsanne (25%), Roussanne (20%) and Grenache Blanc delivers lovely aromatics of honeysuckle and white flowers followed by delicate peach and apricot flavors all supported by vibrant acidity that keeps lively.  It’s a marvelous harmony of floral notes and fruit without a trace of heaviness. 90 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Clayhouse Estate, Paso Robles (California) Grenache Blanc 2010 ($23):  It’s tough to find exciting white wines from traditional Rhône Valley grapes, such as Grenache Blanc, because often energetic acidity is lacking.  Clayhouse Estate has overcome the problems as shown by both this wine and their Estate Cuvée Blanc (also reviewed this week).  Clayhouse’s Grenache Blanc has plenty of concentration, subtle stone fruit touches, and vivacity.  It’s a weighty wine, without a trace of heaviness.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 31, 2012

Clayhouse Estate, Paso Robles (California) Grenache Blanc Red Cedar Vineyard 2009 ($23):  This wine was a pleasant surprise to me because I associated Clayhouse Estate with big bold red wines.  Subtle aromas of white flowers suggest this one will have delicacy and not be an overdone big white Rhone style wine.  Indeed, they have managed to extract attractive stone fruit qualities without any of the heaviness that frequently plagues whites from the Rhone.  Bright acidity helps keep it lively and fresh.   You could easily have a glass before dinner and then bring it to the table. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011

Clayhouse Vineyard, Paso Robles (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($14): Although I find the red wines from Clayhouse overdone and overly alcoholic, they have hit the mark with the balanced and zippy Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s true to its varietal character, not a gussied-up Chardonnay wannabe.  Its bright lemony finish makes it an especially good choice for August. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 12, 2008

Dashe, Potter Valley (California) Dry Riesling McFadden Farms 2010 ($21):  The label is accurate.  This Riesling is dry.  What the label doesn’t say is how good it is.  Mineraly, with a great focus and precision in the finish, it would be a fine choice for anything from steamed clams to roasted pork. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2012

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Olivet Lane 2010 ($60): This, Merry Edwards’s first Chardonnay from Olivet Lane Vineyard, is brilliant. There’s an alluring hint of buttery richness supported by imposing acidity. Ripe, but by no means overblown, this is a refined and stylish Chardonnay. The finish seemingly lasts forever, and each sip brings new thrills. Wow this is good! If she’s not careful she could be known more for her Chardonnays than her superb Pinot Noirs. 96 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2011 ($30): It’s a rare producer who does equally well with both reds and whites, which is why it’s hard to contain my enthusiasm for Jordan.  Their winemaking team excels at both Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.  Their 2009 Cabernet (previously reviewed) is stellar.  And Jordan’s 2011 Chardonnay, which marries power and elegance, is in the same league.  It has the near magical combination of finesse and depth of flavor.  A long citrus tinged finish just amplifies its complexity.  Left uncorked in the refrigerator overnight, it was even better the next day, which is the sign of a great young wine.  I’ve had many a California Chardonnay at twice the price that don’t measure up to this one.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2013

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($30):  Merry Edwards is best known for her stunning Pinot Noir.  Soon she will be known for stunning Pinot Noir and stunning Sauvignon Blanc.  Those who feel Sauvignon Blanc is never suave and sophisticated need to try this wine.  The combination of a hint of the bite of Sauvignon Blanc and its palate-coating cream-like texture is captivating.  The Yin Yang impression keeps you coming back for more.  This is a gorgeous Sauvignon Blanc. 95 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2011

Nickel & Nickel, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Searby Vineyard 2008 ($45):  The array of wines from Nickel & Nickel, be they Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or in this case, Chardonnay, emphasize the differences between vineyard sites.  Overall, they demonstrate that the French have no monopoly on the concept of terroir.  And this Chardonnay, along with its stable mate from the Truchard Vineyard (also reviewed this week) is superb evidence that California can produce superb Chardonnay.  This one has gorgeous layers of ripe fruit flavors–apples, a hint of melon–without being overdone or in-your-face.  Subtle toastiness from the judicious use of oak aging adds to the allure without dominating.  Lemony notes keep it fresh and amplify the flavors in the finish.  Those who complain that California can’t produce elegant Chardonnay ought to try this one. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County) Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($32): Does Merry Edwards ever make a less than terrific wine?  I don’t think so.  Though best known for her sumptuous yet elegant Pinot Noir, she’s no stranger to working with Sauvignon Blanc having made some stellar ones at Matanzas Creek Winery decades ago.  Her 2011 has a gorgeous creamy complexity that gives it a Bordeaux-like feel and richness.  Uplifting acidity offsets its luxurious texture.  Its length speaks to its grandeur.   This is refined Sauvignon Blanc that shows that, in the right hands, that grape can make stunningly good wine. 94 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2013

Jordan, Russian River Valley (California) Chardonnay 2010 ($29): Jordan never misses — either with their Cabernet Sauvignon or their Chardonnay. Their 2010 Chardonnay reminds us why Chardonnay remains popular. I reviewed this wine in April 2012, but had the opportunity to taste (drink, really) it again recently with a meal at a restaurant. Since wine constantly evolves, it’s worth commenting on it again. It’s even more impressive now than when I tasted it last year. It’s a well-balanced amalgam of creaminess, fruitiness, spice and verve. Not heavy or overdone, the flavors dance across the palate. This is a wine to drink — and savor — not just taste.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($38):  Soon Merry Edwards may be known as much for her Sauvignon Blanc as her superb array of Pinot Noirs.  From a variety of vineyards in the Russian River Valley, she has fashioned a masterful combination of subtle Sauvignon pungency with suave creaminess to make a wine reminiscent of great white Bordeaux.  Not a Chardonnay wannabe, it maintains its identity as Sauvignon, but with a beautiful texture rarely seen with this varietal.  Long and classy, it has to be one of California’s best examples of Sauvignon Blanc. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 22, 2011

Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay River West Vineyard 2011 ($25): Davis Bynum was the first to recognized the unique character of wines from the Russian River Valley when he was the first to bottle a single vineyard Pinot Noir from that appellation 40 years ago.  Bynum continues that tradition with this single vineyard bottling of Chardonnay from vines first planted in 1977.  This stylish Chardonnay has a hard-to-pull-off combination of a toasty intensity and finesse.  Not overwrought, a cleansing and bright lemony acidity amplifies the enjoyment.  Your guests will be happy you served it.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2013

Gallo, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Signature Series” 2011 ($30): Gallo, an enormous winery founded by Ernest and Julio Gallo and still responsible for one out of every four bottles of wines sold in the USA, has long been associated with low end jug wines.  Winemaker Gina Gallo, Julio’s granddaughter, and her team have quietly been adding top quality high wines, like this one, to their portfolio under a label they call Signature Series.  The 2011 Chardonnay has an engaging creaminess and a ripe, but not overdone fruitiness, balanced by alluring spice.  Additional charm comes through in the lengthy finish.  This is definitely not your father’s Gallo.  I suspect Julio is smiling broadly.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013

Benziger Family Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Shone Farm 2006 ($29): A more sophisticated and complex version of Benziger’s entry-level North Coast bottling, the Shone Farm vineyard Sauvignon Blanc walks the same line very gracefully, offering a beautiful bite without being overdone.  Its slightly richer texture and a subtle, but delightful, chalky element harmonizes nicely with the grapefruit-like nuances. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2010 ($25):  Although Davis Bynum is famous for introducing Pinot Noir to the Russian River Valley–he bottled the first vineyard designated one, the 1973 Rochioli Vineyard–his Chardonnays should not be overlooked.  The same kind of delicacy and restraint that is the hallmark of his Pinot Noir is also found in his Chardonnays.  The 2010 is particularly attractive with its subtle combination of lemon cream and spice notes.  Bright and lively, it’s a wine to drink, not just taste. 91 Michael Apstein May 29, 2012

Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2004 ($20): An exceptionally stylish wine at this price, the Frei Brothers Chardonnay combines a gorgeous creamy toastiness with pure, fresh citric-laden Russian River Valley fruitiness. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 8, 2006

Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2010 ($29):  Jordan added Chardonnay to their already iconic Cabernet with their release of the 1979 vintage.  Never willing to rest on their laurels and always willing to raise the bar, Jordan gradually shifted its source of Chardonnay from the too warm Alexander Valley to the Russian River Valley whose climate is better suited to the varietal.  Since the 2000, their Chardonnay has come exclusively from a few well-selected growers there.  Bright and vibrant, their 2010 Chardonnay reflects the cooler climate and delivers a discrete creaminess that complements subtle pineapple-like notes.  Those favoring bold Chardonnay should look elsewhere.  Jordan’s is focused, lively and perfect for drinking, not just tasting. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2012

Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2005 ($33): If only more California Chardonnays were made in this style.  Lively, focused–certainly not overdone–Jordan has fashioned an elegant Chardonnay to drink, not just to taste.  The ‘volume’ is lower–only 13.5% alcohol–so the notes are clearer. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 30, 2007

Rodney Strong Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Reserve 2008 ($35): Since “Reserve” on a label has no legal definition or meaning, the consumer rightfully can be suspicious.  This one, a very classy Chardonnay, deserves its designation.  It delivers creamy, toasty elements intertwined with apple-like fruit notes.  Not overdone, the winemaking team avoided the temptation to make it a “big” Reserve, opting instead to showcase its suave elegance. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 23, 2011

Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2009 ($29):  Those who complain about California Chardonnay being overdone and inelegant need to taste this one.  In the Burgundian mode, it conveys flavor without weight.  Although the focus is on fruitiness, mineral-like elements emerge.  The fruit flavors have a lovely delicacy–they’re not heavy or ponderous–that make you return for another sip.  Jordan has turned down the volume so you can hear the crisp notes. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2011

Jordan Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2007 ($32):  Despite the current industry-wide trend toward bombastic, high-alcohol wines, Jordan has remained steadfast and focused on their more restrained style.  This terrific Chardonnay fits that mold.  Fresh, with a creamy–almost lemon-cream–quality and great length shows why Chardonnay remains this country’s favorite white wine.  It’s equally at home with canapés before dinner or with a main course of roast chicken or grilled fish. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 26, 2010

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($27): Merry Edwards is well known for her glossy Pinot Noirs.  I was unaware that she made anything else, so imagine my surprise then when the sommelier at DB Bistro Moderne (Daniel Boulud’s bistro) in New York suggested her 2005 Sauvignon Blanc.   It turns out that Edwards made stylish Sauvignon Blanc 25 years ago when she was winemaker at Matanzas Creek Winery.  She hasn’t lost her touch with that grape.  She started making it under her label only in 2001 and now is up to 2,500 cases with the 2005 vintage.  There will be more in the future–and after tasting the 2005, that’s welcome news–after she completes her new winery.  Barrel fermentation, lees stirring and a touch of aging in new French oak barrels means that this is not your linear, herbal style of Sauvignon Blanc.  Rather, it is lush and floral, yet not overdone, with great texture and sufficient Sauvignon Blanc edginess to keep it interesting throughout the meal. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2007

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($30):

Merry Edwards is rightly best known for her stunning array of Pinot Noir.  But if she continues to produce Sauvignon Blanc like this one, that could change.  A creamy seductiveness balances the quintessential pungency of Sauvignon Blanc.  Softer and friendlier than New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, this classy wine is reminiscent of a fine white Bordeaux.

90 Michael Apstein Dec 29, 2009

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($29):

Merry Edwards, who is justifiably well known for producing terrific Pinot Noir, also makes lovely Sauvignon Blanc.  Hers are more Graves-like, with a creamy elegance, as opposed to the biting zing common in Sauvignons from New Zealand.  Rounder than many Sauvignon Blancs, it still has the recognizable pungency of the varietal and is by no means a Chardonnay wannabe. It’s a unique style that’s hard to achieve.  She does it well.

90 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Rodney Strong, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Reserve 2005 ($30): As my colleague, Linda Murphy, notes on this site a few weeks ago, Rodney Strong is doing an awful lot right these days, with good wines across the various price tiers.  This ‘reserve’ Chardonnay is a case in point.  It’s rich but refined, displaying fine balance and harmony as well as truly succulent flavors.  A great many California Chardonnays priced in its league fall well below it in terms of sheer quality. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007

Adler Fels, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2010 ($15):  Adler Fels is well-known for the négociant business–that is, they buy newly made wine from multiple sources, blend them, complete the aging process and sell them under cutesy labels such as Kitchen Sink or Big Ass.  They also own vineyards from which they make refined, and well-priced wines, such as this Chardonnay, and sell them under the Adler Fels label.  This Chardonnay combines a luscious, but delicate, ripeness with discreet toasty and creamy overtones.  It’s a terrific value. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011

Chateau St. Jean, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Fumé Blanc “La Petite Etoile” 2007 ($20): Chateau St. Jean, continuing their tradition of making single vineyard wines, bottles two wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. Both are labeled Fumé Blanc, evoking the French wine, Pouilly Fumé, which is made entirely from that grape.  La Petite Etoile is the richer and more full-bodied of the two (the other, Lyon Vineyard is also reviewed this week).  Those looking for the zingy, electrifying style of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand will be disappointed because this is a rounder ‘friendlier’ style with notes of melons and the hallmark toasty elements that come from fermentation in a barrel.  It retains the captivating pungency of Sauvignon Blanc, which makes it a fine choice for those looking for a richer style of Sauvignon Blanc. 89 Michael Apstein May 26, 2009

Clos du Bois, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2007 ($17):

This wine, situated in the middle of Clos du Bois’ three levels of Chardonnay, is a nicely balanced, long and broad wine despite the stated 14.5% alcohol.  It delivers richness and creaminess without being flamboyant or in-your-face.  Citric notes in the finish keep it interesting.  It would be a good choice for roast chicken or grilled swordfish. 89.

89 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2009

Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2011 ($20): The Russian River pierces the North – South running coastal mountains in Sonoma County allowing cooling influences from the Pacific Ocean to bathe the vineyards along its course.  The relatively cooler climate explains the great success of Chardonnay — and Pinot Noir — in the Russian River Valley because the grapes retain acidity, which translates to freshness and verve in the wines, like this one.  Perky acidity balances and amplifies a subtle — thankfully not overt — creaminess and tropical fruit-like flavors. This is a marvelous buy when yearning for California Chardonnay.
89 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2013

Ram’s Gate, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Ulises Valdez-Diablo Vineyards 2010 ($64): Ram’s Gate makes a series of single vineyard Chardonnays that demonstrate the different climates and growing conditions in California. To their credit, they are all different and distinct. This one from the Russian River Valley has a delectable creamy fruity richness enhanced by the judicious use of oak aging. A slight burn in the finish, a reflection of the 14.9% stated alcohol, detracts from an otherwise luscious wine. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Thomas George Estates, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Starr Ridge Vineyard 2009 ($38):  This rich and powerful Chardonnay is not for the faint of heart.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s not the overdone and heavy-handed oaky style of the past, but it’s still a substantial wine, weighing in with a 14.6%-stated alcohol.  Fortunately, plenty of zesty lemony acidity holds it all together and prevents it from tiring your palate. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011

Windsor Sonoma, Russian River Valley (California) Chardonnay 2007 ($24): Here’s another California Chardonnay that has opted, thankfully, for restrained fruit flavors rather than the more-is-better approach.  And they’ve shown restraint without eviscerating the wine as is often the case when the pendulum has swung too far in one direction.  It still delivers delightful delicate melon and papaya-like nuances buoyed by a lemony acidity. This balanced beauty can be enjoyed before and with a meal. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009

Chateau St. Jean, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Fumé Blanc “La Petite Etoile” 2006 ($20): Chateau St. Jean has farmed the La Petite Etoile Vineyard, located near Windsor, since 1978, and purchased it in the mid-1980s when a condominium development threatened it.  Half its 44 acres are devoted to Sauvignon Blanc.  This opulent, bold rendition of Sauvignon Blanc emphasizes the ripe tropical fruit quality of the grape with only the barest hint of grassy pungency.  Easy enough to sip by itself, you could pair it  nicely with sea bass or a rich chicken dish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009

Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2007 ($30): Despite coming from the relatively cooler Russian River Valley, this is a riper—14.9% stated alcohol—and fleshier style of Chardonnay that emphasizes tropical fruit over citrus flavors.  Though more overt and with more apparent oak influences, it retains grace and balance—it is still not over the top or in your face.  It will appeal especially to those who favor a more full-bodied Chardonnay. 88 Michael Apstein Apr 6, 2010

DeLoach, Russian River Valley (Cakifornia) Sauvignon Blanc “OFS” 2006 ($22): OFS (aka, our finest selection) has much more going for it than DeLoach’s regular bottling of Sauvignon Blanc, which I suspect has been stripped of much of its character by the creation of this ‘reserve’ wine.  The OFS has lovely balance with a zippy, attractive pungency that carries effortlessly into the finish. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2007

Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2006 ($20): Its engaging creaminess is nicely balanced by nuances–not buckets–of tropical fruit and supported by vibrant acidity.  Not a hit-you-over-the-head style of Chardonnay, it still has plenty of pizzaz and length. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2008

Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2006 ($20): This wine reminds us why Chardonnay is so popular. Its engaging creaminess is nicely balanced by nuances — not buckets — of tropical fruit and supported by vibrant acidity.  Not a hit-you-over-the-head style of Chardonnay, it still has plenty of pizzaz and length. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2008

Freeman Vineyard & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Ryo-Fu” 2006 ($40): Ken Freeman and his Japanese wife, Akiko, founded their eponymous winery in 2001 in western Russian River Valley, a stone’s throw from the Sonoma Coast AVA.  They produce about 600 cases of this restrained Chardonnay (Ryo-Fu in Japanese means cool breeze) from a blend of grapes from two sites, the Keefer Ranch and the Heitz Ranch, in the Russian River Valley. Eschewing new oak aging, they’ve crafted a wine showing bright tropical fruit flavors as the dominant theme in this nicely balanced Chardonnay.  Lemony acidity in the finish keeps it fresh. 88 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2008 ($20):  The Gallo team–Frei Brothers is one of their many labels–is right on the money with this Chardonnay, achieving a marvelous balance of alluring creaminess and fruitiness.  There’s a subtle toasty imprint of oak, but the primary impact is fruit, not oak.  It has a delightful presence without being overdone. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011

Laguna Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Laguna Ranch Vineyard 2010 ($26): Laguna Winery’s Chardonnay from their Laguna Ranch Vineyard is a full-bodied wine with buttery and toasty overtones atop tropical fruit flavors.  Good acidity keeps it from going over the top.  This power-packed Chardonnay would be a good match for a chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce.
87 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2013

Valley of the Moon, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Unoaked 2007 ($15): Many unoaked Chardonnays fall short of the mark because you need truly unique and distinctive terroir–such as the Chablis region–to produce a distinctive wine.  This one works better than most.  What it lacks in minerality it makes up for with attractive and bright grapefruit-like flavors and a pleasantly cutting finish. 86 Michael Apstein Dec 16, 2008

Ferrari-Carano, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Dominique” 2005 ($38): Ferrari-Carano, widely known for its opulent Chardonnays, has released a set of five vineyard designated renditions.  I recently tasted three of them, and this was my favorite of the bunch.  It displays intense fruit aromas and flavors, reminiscent of peaches, pineapples, and citrus, with appealing undertones reminiscent of sweet spice and toasted nuts.  The overall impression, however, is marred somewhat by the overt taste of oak, which threatens to obliterate all subtleties and nuances, and turns the wine’s finish slightly bitter.  The taste of wood may well settle into the appropriate background with the wine’s spending more time in bottle.  If so, the wine definitely will merit a higher score, as the fruit is delicious. 85 Michael Apstein May 29, 2007

Au Bon Climat, Santa Barbara County (California) Chardonnay 2005 ($20): Who knew you could buy such a stylish California Chardonnay for 20 bucks?  Jim Clendenen, winemaker and owner of Au Bon Climat, makes an exceptional array of wines from grapes grown mostly in the Bien Nacido Vineyard, a site that has received praise from winemakers and critics alike.  For this, his basic Chardonnay, two-thirds of the grapes come from Bien Nacido and the remainder from Rancho Vinedo Vineyard.  His judicious use of barrel fermentation of aging in French oak barrels translates into a lovely texture that enhances the inherent fruitiness, without overt oakiness.  The citric finish is cleansing and refreshing without being aggressive. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2007

Epiphany Cellars, Santa Barbara County (California) Grenache Blanc Camp Four Vineyard 2007 ($23): Eli Parker, Fess Parker’s son, is the winemaker at Epiphany Cellars.  Despite the ripe robust style of Fess Parker’s wines and this one’s 14.5% stated alcohol, there is a gorgeous restraint here that shows the lovely stone fruit character of Grenache Blanc in a beautiful light.  Grenache Blanc has a tendency towards heaviness, but in this one, only alluring hints of peaches and apricots peek out while bright acid lends balance and amplifies the complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2008

Epiphany Cellars, Santa Barbara County (California) Grenache Blanc Camp Four Vineyard 2007 ($23): Eli Parker, Fess Parker’s son, is the winemaker at Epiphany Cellars.  Despite the ripe robust style of Fess Parker’s wines and this one’s 14.5% stated alcohol, there is a gorgeous restraint here that shows the lovely stone fruit character of Grenache Blanc in a beautiful light.  Grenache Blanc has a tendency towards heaviness, but in this one, only alluring hints of peaches and apricots peek out while bright acid lends balance and amplifies the complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2008

Lucas & Lewellen, Santa Barbara County (California) Chardonnay Good Child Vineyard 2006 ($22): This full-bodied (14.4% alcohol) Chardonnay has appealing citrus notes and lots of toasty–almost burnt–oak flavors that balance the ripe creamy elements.  Its attractive layers of tropical fruit flavors and lemon cream quality and are marred only slightly by the heat of alcohol in the finish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

Greg Norman, Santa Barbara County (California) Chardonnay 2006 ($13): Greg Norman wines started in Australia–where they remain a popular brand–and have now moved to California.  With only a hint of creamy oakiness, this is a toned-down style of California Chardonnay.  Lemony notes in the finish add to its appeal as does the very attractive price. 87 Michael Apstein May 13, 2008

Purite, Santa Barbara County (California) Riesling “Unoaked Dry” 2007 ($18): Purité is the label Epiphany Cellars uses for its white wines that have no fermentation or aging in oak barrels.  Labeling a Riesling ‘unoaked’ is redundant — like labeling a wine ‘White Chablis’ — and begs the question, ‘Isn’t it all?’  Name aside, this is a clean, refreshing wine with a hint of sweetness — offset  by good acidity — that would complement spicy Asian or Southwestern cuisine nicely. 85 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2008

Purité, Santa Barbara County (California) Unoaked Dry Riesling 2007 ($18): Purité is the label Epiphany Cellars uses for its white wines that have no fermentation or aging in oak barrels.  Labeling a Riesling ‘unoaked’ is redundant-like labeling a wine ‘White Chablis’-and begs the question, ‘Isn’t it all?’  Name aside, this is a clean refreshing wine with a hint of sweetness-offset  by good acidity-that would complement spicy Asian or Southwestern cuisine nicely. 85 Michael Apstein Nov 4, 2008

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Chardonnay Liebeler Vineyard 2005 ($30):

Riper and more substantial than their Santa Cruz Mountain Chardonnay, this single vineyard wine retains the impeccable balance that Clos LaChance regularly achieves.  Citric notes and hints of buttery richness come together nicely in this richly textured wine. It delivers more complexity than many California Chardonnays costing substantially more.

91 Michael Apstein Apr 15, 2008

Clos La Chance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Chardonnay Biagini Vineyard 2004 ($35): Clos La Chance consistently makes excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from their Santa Cruz Mountain location. They only produced a little of this one–370 cases–but its roasty-toasty style couple by lemony acidity make it worth finding. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Chardonnay 2005 ($18): As with their Pinot Noir, Clos LaChance delivers a lot for the price with their Chardonnay.  It has just the right balance of suave creaminess and spice with complexity that shows in the lingering finish. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Chardonnay Biagini Vineyard 2005 ($35): The ripest of Clos LaChance’s single vineyard Chardonnays, this is still harmonious, not an ‘in-your-face’ style of wine.  Smoky toasty nuances are layered onto a creamy texture and allow melon-like flavors to come through.  Lively acidity keeps the whole package together and makes you come back for another sip. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 15, 2008

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Chardonnay Biagini Vineyard 2007 ($35):

This Chardonnay and their Liebeler Vineyard offering (also reviewed) offer compelling proof that location matters in California.  The Biagini Vineyard Chardonnay borders on flamboyant with lots of ripeness and lots of vanilla-scented oak.  The wine is big but not over-the-top, as lively acidity holds the boisterous flavors together.  It’s an attractive example of a ripe full-bodied California Chardonnay.

88 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2009

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Chardonnay Liebeler Vineyard 2007 ($35):

This Chardonnay, made from fruit grown in the Liebeler Vineyard, is a more restrained version of the Biagini Vineyard (also reviewed).  There’s less fruit and more minerality here.  It highlights the elegant–as opposed to powerful–side of Chardonnay.  The proportions are different with less oak showing and fewer melon-like notes.  A citric zing keeps it lively.  How to chose?  Next time friends are coming for dinner, open a bottle of each and see which style suits you and your guests.

88 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2009

Clos LaChance, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Chardonnay 2006 ($20): Clos LaChance makes several Chardonnays, two single vineyard ones, and this one from a blend of fruit grown in several vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains.  Judging by the price, the best of the fruit goes into the single vineyard bottlings, but this one should not be overlooked because it is a fine value.  A zippy lemony finish and a touch of creaminess balance the tropical fruit flavors. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 15, 2008

Talbott Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County) Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2011 ($42):  One sip of Talbott’s Sleepy Hollow Vineyard confirms its status as their flagship wine. Creamy oak influences complement and amplify its tropical fruit laden richness and power. It’s opulent without being overblown.  Bright acidity holds it all together.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2013

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Chardonnay 2007 ($26): This beautifully balanced Chardonnay delivers just the right amount lush, melon-like flavors seamlessly intertwined with creamy, toasty oak nuances.  Not overblown or in-your-face, it has elegance and finesse.  Lively acidity draws the flavors into the finish.  Mostly I recommend it because it has a little bit of everything and not too much of anything. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2009

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Gris R & D Franscioni Vineyard 2009 ($17):  Morgan is on a roll with a range of wines that continues to impress.  Previously, I’ve noted that they were best known for their stellar Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which was true.  Then I rediscovered their balanced Sauvignon Blanc.  And now, I must add Pinot Gris to their list of successful varietals.  Not a light innocuous “Pinot Grigio” style, they’ve captured the richer profile of Alsace Pinot Gris with lush, yet restrained, stone fruit character and bright balancing acidity.  It has unusual finesse and length.  Try it with roast pork or salmon. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “Highland” 2008 ($26):  Morgan produces an array of stylish Chardonnays, reflective of the origin of the grapes.  This one will appeal to those looking for leaner, livelier, style of Chardonnay.  The barest hint of ripe melons is balanced perfectly by a lively citrus finish.  The oak is well integrated and adds to the overall appeal. It’s the kind of wine you want to drink throughout a meal, not just taste. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2010

Talbott Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County) Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ‘Logan’ 2011 ($23):  Logan could be considered Talbott’s second wine, after their Sleepy Hollow bottling.  Richer and creamier than their Kali Hart bottling, Talbott’s Logan Chardonnay delivers far more complexity as well.  There’s plenty of ripe fruit, offset by a lip-smacking lemony burst in the finish.  Their 2011 is a terrific second wine that offers consumers great value.  Don’t miss it. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2013

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Chardonnay Double L Vineyard 2006 ($44): Morgan makes several single vineyard Chardonnays from purchased fruit, or in this instance, their own.  Their Double L vineyard is farmed organically, which probably explains at least part of the grace and finesse of this wine. This marvelous example shows just how balanced and complex California Chardonnay can be.  Subtle minerality and creaminess enhance delicate–but ripe–citric and melon flavors.  Its elegance seems to be amplified in its long finish. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 15, 2008

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Gris Franscioni Vineyard 2008 ($17): This is another surprise–for me–from Morgan, which I’ve always associated with excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  My first surprise came several years ago when I tasted their Sauvignon Blanc and promptly added that varietal to their list of accomplishments.  Now, the list lengthens with this Pinot Gris.  It combines a pear-like texture with good minerality and an engaging edginess.  Although Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are two names for the same grape, don’t confuse this wine with a lightweight innocuous wine often sold as Pinot Grigio.  This is serious stuff. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 1, 2009

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay Double L Vineyard 2009 ($36):  his rich and creamy Chardonnay is almost too big, but alluring spice and vibrant acidity keeps it from going over the top.  It’s rich without being obnoxious. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2011

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay 2006 ($26): Morgan has fashioned a beautiful Chardonnay by blending wines made from fruit grown in their own vineyards with purchased grapes.  It has a seamless integration of fruit and oak supported by a lemony acidity.  Its elegance–and even a delicacy–extends into the long finish. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

Talbott Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County) Chardonnay ‘Kali Hart’ 2011 ($20):  Talbott produces three decidedly different Chardonnays that have a common thread — they are all easy to recommend.  This one, fermented and aged mostly in stainless steel, shines with fresh, citrus notes.  Most of the fruit comes from the acclaimed Sleepy Hollow Vineyard.  Bright and lively, it conveys crisp green apples flavors intermingled with subtle tropical fruit nuances.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2013

Solaire by Robert Mondav, Santa Lucia Highlands (California) Chardonnay 2006 ($15): Robert Mondavi would be proud that Constellation Brands is using his name to promote this wine because it is in the traditional Mondavi style of a wine to accompany, rather than overwhelm, food.  The subtle oak notes, the lemony acidity and the ripe–but not overdone–fruit flavors are seamless.  This mid weight Chardonnay is easy to recommend. 87 Michael Apstein May 20, 2008

Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Gris R & D Franscioni Vineyard 2010 ($18):  Morgan continues to expand their repertoire.  Always a fine source for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they make excellent Sauvignon Blanc and now, Pinot Gris, a varietal that has not had great success in California.  They’ve captured a subtle apricot and peach-like essence while maintaining vibrancy.  Not heavy at all, it has a lovely mouth-filling texture. Its true class is apparent in its graceful and persistent finish. Michael Apstein Sep 6, 2011

Byron, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay “Nielson Historic Vines” 2006 ($35): Old vines really do matter. This wine was made from fruit grown on the original 14 rows of the Nielsen vineyard that were planted in 1964 (the remainder of the vineyard was planted later).  It shows an incredible complexity–nuances of flavor that pour over the palate–that only old vine fruit delivers.  It has a lush creaminess intertwined with hints of apple and pear-like notes.  Tasted side-by-side with Byron’s regular Nielson Chardonnay–a very good wine in its own right–the Historic Vines bottling is not bigger, it just has an extra dimension with great length and vibrancy.  An excellent buy. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 17, 2009

Byron, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Nielson Vineyard 2006 ($27): If all California Chardonnay tasted like this one, no one would complain.  Even after Byron used the fruit from the oldest vines in this vineyard for a separate bottling (Byron Historic Vines Chardonnay, reviewed previously), they have made an excellent wine from the remaining grapes.  It captures you with nuances and balance–a luxuriously creamy texture, a whiff of vanilla, a hint of pineapple-like fruit and vibrant acidity–not sheer weight and power.  It’s a delight to taste–and drink. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 10, 2009

Cambria, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Katherine’s Vineyard 2006 ($19): This, Cambria’s ‘signature wine,’ is a good introduction to this producer’s style.  It is a more forward style of Chardonnay that delivers subtle toastiness and even a hint of bacon fat balanced by lush ripeness.  Despite its overt flavors, it manages not to come across as ‘in your face’ kind of wine.  Good acidity in the finish keeps it lively.  It’s a well-made, crowd-pleasing Chardonnay at an attractive price. 89 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008

Fess Parker, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Ashley’s Vineyard 2006 ($28): Fess Parker’s daughter, Ashley, is quoted on the winery’s website as saying, ‘Fess is from Texas, so he can’t do anything small.’ That statement goes a long way in explaining the big robust style of their Pinot Noir.  The same character extends to their Chardonnay.  This ripe–14.5% stated alcohol–and opulent wine drips with tropical fruit flavors, but actually has sufficient acid and verve to hold it together.  Not a subtle or elegantly tailored Chardonnay, it nevertheless delivers a lot of bang for the buck. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (California) “Le Bec Blanc” 2010 ($18): A typical blend of white Rhône varieties, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier, Beckman’s Le Bec Blanc delivers pure stone fruit flavors — a hint of peach, a touch of apricot — with terrific acidity and focus. It finishes firm, not sweet. Beckman’s white Rhone wines have gotten better and better. This one might be their best yet.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013

Gainey Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc “Limited Selection” 2008 ($20):  Gainey’s classy Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc undergoes some fermentation in barrel (in contrast to their regular Sauvignon Blanc) and helps explain why it has an alluring roundness that balances the bite inherent to the varietal.  The inclusion of Semillon in the blend adds complexity and an appealing richness, without obliterating the varietal character of Sauvignon Blanc.  Not an edgy New Zealand example or a mineral-laden Sancerre, it’s a distinct–and welcome–style of Sauvignon Blanc. 91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2009

Beckman Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) “Le Bec Blanc” 2009 ($18):  Beckman produces stellar red wines from a blend of Rhône or Mediterranean grapes.  With this wine, they show they are similarly successful with white grapes typically associated with that region.  A blend of Marsanne (46%), Roussanne (38%) and Grenache Blanc captures the stone fruit essence without any of the heaviness that is frequently associated with those wines. Citrus notes complement the lush texture. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2011

Gainey Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($15):  A haunting herbaceous character initially identifies the wine as Sauvignon Blanc, but then a creamy, almost lanolin-like texture announces that something else is going on as well.  It’s the Semillon speaking.  It softens the pungency without eviscerating the wine.  As is often the case with a blend, the result in this Graves-like wine is greater than the sum of the parts. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2010

Star Lane Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($20): This gorgeous 100% Sauvignon Blanc marries a piercing citric grapefruit rind-like tang with a supple, glossy texture achieved from aging a portion of the wine in older oak barrels.  You ‘feel’ the influence of oak rather than taste it.  Consequently, it does not obliterate the attractively pungent citric bite that is the hallmark of Sauvignon Blanc. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008

Gainey, Santa Ynez Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($13):

A touch of Semillon (20%) adds the luxurious roundness without obliterating the pleasant pungency of this Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s a marvelous balance that’s hard to achieve.  It’s a delight to find this kind of class in Sauvignon Blanc, especially at the price.  Snap it up.

88 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2011

Bray Vineyards, Shenandoah Valley (Amador County, California) Verdelho 2007 ($16): Verdelho, a Portuguese white grape associated with Madeira, has made a name for itself as a vibrant white wine in Australia.  Little is planted in California, but judging from this example from Bray Vineyards it has a promising future, especially if vintners resist the urge to harvest overly ripe fruit.  Bray’s version is quite ripe–nearly 14% stated alcohol–with attractive floral and melon-like character.  A little more acidity in the finish would brighten this otherwise charming wine. 86 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008

Freestone Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2011 ($60): Freestone Vineyards is the 100-acre outpost of Joseph Phelps on the extreme Sonoma Coast within spitting distance of the Pacific Ocean. The maritime influence keeps the vines cool–downright cold at times, which is perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Purchased in 1999, Phelps planted 20 acres to Chardonnay and the remainder to Pinot Noir.  This Chardonnay is, in a word, gorgeous.  Rich and opulent, it’s paradoxically restrained because it is not flamboyant.  A bright edginess amplifies its charms.  It’s a wine you want to drink, not just taste.
95 Michael Apstein Sep 17, 2013

Ram’s Gate, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Durell Vineyard 2010 ($74): Those who love rich and lush Chardonnays will embrace this wine. Pineappley fruit bombards the palate. Not over oaked, it’s attractively toasty. Its lack of verve is a surprise since the Sonoma Coast is heralded as a cool-climate location, which should allow grapes to hold acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2012

Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Laguna Vista Vineyard 2009 ($18):  The Sonoma Coast appellation is so large and meandering, with enormous differences in climate, that growers there are trying to subdivide it, at least unofficially.  Sonoma Coast Vineyards refers to their area, west of the Russian River and very close to the Pacific Ocean, as the Extreme Sonoma Coast.  This cool-climate area already has a reputation for producing stylish Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Well, judging from this Sauvignon Blanc, you can add that varietal to the list.  Either by technique–they used two different clones of Sauvignon Blanc and a combination of stainless steel and oak aging–or by the above-mentioned climate, they have done a marvelous job of broadening the flavor profile of Sauvignon Blanc without losing its herbal pungency.  It’s a gentler, more graceful rendition of Sauvignon Blanc.  It delivers plenty of pleasure without grabbing you by the throat and screaming. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 14, 2010

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Fumé Blanc 2006 ($14): There is no consistent difference stylistically between California Sauvignon Blanc labeled as Fumé Blanc or as Sauvignon Blanc.  But in this case, Dry Creek Vineyard has captured the Pouilly-Fumé-like character with minerality and an attractive chalkiness to offset the grapefruit pungency of Sauvignon Blanc.  Its slightly less aggressive style makes it an easy choice for grilled fish. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2008

St. Francis, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay “Wild Oak” 2007 ($25):

The St. Francis “Wild Oak” Chardonnay–a cut above their regular Sonoma County bottling–represents their best barrels from their best vineyard blocks.  It has unapologetic California richness, but despite the 14.5% stated alcohol, an uncommon elegance.  An alluring nose is followed by an equally appealing ripe creaminess.  The oak is present, but the wine is not “oaky.”  But perhaps its best attribute is that you don’t tire of drinking it throughout the meal.

90 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2009

St. Francis Winery and Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay “Wild Oak” 2005 ($25): Although the oak influences are apparent, they are not overdone or intrusive.  Creamy richness with citric nuances remains the primary impact in this straightforward Chardonnay. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008

St. Francis, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2008 ($15):  St. Francis bottles a variety of Chardonnay, from this one, two-thirds of which came from Russian River Valley with the remainder from Sonoma Valley and Carnernos, to single vineyard ones and one made using natural yeast.  A ripe style with plenty of tropical fruit flavors–hints of melons–and toasty oak, it will please those who want power and richness in their Chardonnay.  Good acidity in the finish keeps it from the overdone category. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 30, 2010

St. Francis, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2008 ($15):  St. Francis bottles a variety of Chardonnay, from this one, two-thirds of which came from Russian River Valley with the remainder from Sonoma Valley and Carnernos, to single vineyard ones and one made using natural–or wild–yeast.  A ripe style with plenty of tropical fruit flavors, hints of melons, and toasty oak, it will please those who want power and richness in their Chardonnay.  Good acidity in the finish keeps it from the overdone category. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 23, 2010

Windsor, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2004 ($23): The color is a medium burnished gold and the nose is very oaky, with spice and acacia notes. The wine has a thick texture, the flavor of cooking apples, and a medium dry finish with heavy oak tones. (80-84) Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2005

Benziger Family Winery, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($33): At the tip of the Benziger pyramid are their estate wines made at their biodynamic property just outside of the town of Glen Ellen.  This stunning wine gets my vote as the best California Sauvignon Blanc I have tasted in years. Similarly styled to the other Benziger Sauvignon Blanc, the Paradiso de Maria has more finesse and complexity without sacrificing the attractive mouth-tingling zing emblematic of the varietal.  If this is what biodynamic grape growing and wine making accomplishes, more wineries should be embracing it. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008

Smith Madrone, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2010 ($30): The technical data about a wine can be misleading. This Chardonnay, weighing in at a stated 14.4% alcohol, was entirely barrel fermented and then aged in new French oak for eight months. By all rights, it should be overdone and in your face. Yet, it’s not. Far from it. It’s a gorgeous combination of richness and creaminess buttressed by edgy acidity. There’s a stylish subtlety to it, especially in the finish. Don’t be a slave to the numbers. Trust the producer.
95 Michael Apstein May 28, 2013

Smith Madrone, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2006 ($28): This delivers melon-like flavors often found in California Chardonnay, but with more restraint and elegance than many bottlings.  Citric notes in the finish keep it fresh.  It’s a beautifully balanced California Chardonnay that keeps your interest throughout the meal. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 29, 2008

Gainey Vineyards, Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay ‘Limited Selection’ 2007 ($38): While most mountain ranges and valleys in California run north-south, the Sta. Rita Hills—and neighboring Santa Ynez Valley—run east-west, which exposes them directly to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. The Pacific breezes travel well into the valley, dropping the temperature and allowing the grapes to hold their acidity.  It’s the enlivening acidity that makes this an exciting wine.  Creamy toasty elements—even a hint of bacon fat—come through, but never overwhelm. The last sip is as enjoyable as the first. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 6, 2010