($22, Vineyard Brands): The French authorities elevated Vinsobres to its own appellation–on the same level as Châteauneuf du Pape–in 2005.  They don’t have the grandeur–nor the price–of Châteauneuf, but like their Rhône neighbors to the south, they can be enjoyed when young.  Combine a great vintage with the exceptional talents of the Perrin family–owners of Château Beaucastel–and with this Vinsobres you have an excellent wine for hearty wintertime fare.  It balances juicy black and red fruit flavors with spice and subtle gaminess, all enlivened with bright acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 5, 2010